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Great 2# Drop In Triogger Kit!


Adam B

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"I am a Production "D" shooter, not qualified to judge either one."

Hell, it's your trigger in your gun o you shure are qual. to shoot it and judge it for yourself! :D

Apparently other posters understood what I meant since yours is the only belligerent comment, 28 days after the posting.

I have had a number of USPSA shooters try both G-34s and found that the further down the food chain you get from Grand Masters the less people are able to detect the differences between the CV and RS triggers. At the “C” and “D” level most folks cannot tell any difference, myself included. Granted, this was not scientifically controlled but it served the purpose, I will buy additional RS drop in kits for future Glocks.

BTW, your grammar and spelling make it difficult to understand you. Are you sure you are qualified to be posting on an adult forum?

Looks like a little humor was attempted - IMHO

Edited by Merlin Orr
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Oct, I think you misunderstood the intention. BTW, personal attacks on grammar and intelligence isnt something that is gonna be well received here.

I'm a lowly "C" shooter, and that doesnt make any GM in the world better able to detect the differences in MY gun. If Barnhart, Leathem, Jarrett and Jesus all got together, donated sperm, and bred a new breed of super shooter, I'm still not gonna take their word on how to set up MY gun as anything more than a suggestion to try.

Back to the topic at hand, as there is no way we are gonna let this great thread get drifted...

I got my new trigger kit today (yes, Christmas Eve) in the mail. As soon as my G17 gets here, I will install it and let ya'll know the differences between the first trigger Ralph did, and his current crop. I am confident everyone will be happy.

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Don't think any offence was intended. We all kid around here to some degree, and, to be honest, it's easy to type fast and hit the enter button without a close edit for how some may read the tone, tenor or typos.

Please stay and enjoy what you might learn here on the forums. I think you'll find that folks here are much less inclined to flame posters than at many other forums I've heard about.

Kevin C.

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"...belligerent comment, 28 days after the posting."

Wasn't kidding and sure was not being "belligerent"!

Am "Still" a "B" Class after many years and SS in IDPA. Ralph's kit really has improved own shooting/accuracy, almost across the board. Hope it does the same for you and for that matter, everyone else who gets one. Best 50 Bucks one can spend on Glock guts! {Shudder to think how much have packed down this rat-hole in the past!}

p.s. Howse muh grammuh?

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"Hell, it's your trigger in your gun o you shure are qual. to shoot it and judge it for yourself"

But this is? If that's the case I will be more than happy to leave at Brians request.

I sure didn't read that as being a negative comment focused at you. Perhaps the meaning wasn't clear.

Regardless...we are all here to learn and to share. We tend to do so with a bit less "edge" than other places that talk about Glocks. (It may take some getting used to.)

If there is anything further along this line that needs to be expressed feel free to contact me through a PM and I'll help get it sorted out. After that, I'll likely come back through here and clear out the posts along this line...which are off the original topic.

Thanks,

KF

Administrator

Oh...I am sure that I ahve more mis-spelled words on this forum than anybody. :)

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Back on topic:

Just got my kit this week. Those have got to be the shiniest Glock parts I have ever seen - Are they plated B) ? The most radical other change I could see was a more radiused head on the FP saftey plunger (wouldn't know a redrilled trigger bar if it reared up and bit me in the...).

Put them into my 35, which already had the DIY polish job + aftermarket striker spring (also an unmodified ISMI 11# recoil spring). Used the springs that came with the kit (striker and cruciform), and the stock, but polished 3 1/2# connector.

Premod trigger wt was about 5 1/2#, down to around 2 1/2# after what I did to it. Now with the kit installed it breaks at 2# even. Initially it was 3# plus, but after cycling the slide and trigger 600 times, then cleaning and relubing, it's down to as advertised. There's a staged feel to the trigger now, but it comes as hesitation at two points in the pull, and feels just a bit gritty. My own work on the trigger is heavier to the point where I can feel the difference, but smoother. Perhaps more cycling will wear in the parts and make the feel smoother. If not, time will tell if I'll trade a rougher, lighter, breaking trigger for a half pound heavier, smoother but "mushy" trigger.

So, $50 for 2#, as advertised. Seems worth it if you are starting with the (nominal) 5# connnector stock guns, which, in my limited experience seem to give a real trigger wt of about 8#, and if you don't want to or can't polish like crazy/radius the plunger/redo the trigger bar/buy the aftermarket springs/connector.

And no, I've never shot/owned a Vanek, CGR or Rhea trigger. :rolleyes:

Kevin C.

Edited by kevin c
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"Used the springs that came with the kit (striker and cruciform)"

Hi Kevin,

FWIW, Ralph uses a lighter plunger spring also so there are 3 new springs total. Pretty sure his trigger return spring is stronger to help make reset a tad quicker and help take the mush out of the 3.5 connector. You can see the reloacated hole on the T-Bar if campare OEM to RS side by side. {He actully cuts it shorter and redrills it} Am using own 3.5 conn. also but there is no grit in the pull at all? Did true up and face it with a stone then polish originally though. Ralph has been very good about providing detailed answer's to own Email's, might try him?

Can only feel one final stage of the trigger's travel on mine just before the break and think it's there for that purpose as use it all the time for any precision shots, etc. Don't know how mant cycles your 3.5 conn has on it but may have mated strongly with your own "worked" T-Bar to the point that it's not doing 100% justice to Ralph's Kit?

Have not tried a CV or DR either and probably won't now either :D

Edited by Bugs Bunny
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BB:

Right you are, I'd forgotten the plunger spring (almost lost that tiny little thing putting it in).

Interesting your comment there about the trigger return spring - I notice that my reset is now a rather dramatically loud click. Is that typical, all you folks out there w/ installed kits?

My 35 barely has a couple hundred rounds through it, so I don't think that the parts are overly mated through use. It is possible that my polishing job did something. I didn't Dremel it, though. I used a set of polishing sticks from Brownell's. I hadn't thought about the truing issue, though the sticks wouldn't keep the surface true if I overdid it. I have another 3 1/2# connector that I might try.

I'll consider dropping a line to Ralph if I can't get it sorted out.

Mind you, I still think that I got a lot for $50, and, short of building an open Glock, I doubt that I will be going for any of the three figure trigger jobs.

Thanks for the comments.

Kevin C.

Edited by kevin c
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Mine has a sorta click sound also, though mine was done long before Ralph started making them as a kit. I never was concerned about mine, but if it causes you some, I am sure Ralph wouldnt mind an email asking him whats up with it. If you have another stock, or close to stock 3.5 connector, you can quickly find out what kinda difference it makes.

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the 3 springs in the kit look like a cut down stock plunger spring, Wolf reduced power striker spring, and wolf trigger spring.

Before I bought the kit I bought the wolf springs so I had them sitting with my kit to compare.

I could be wrong though.

Whatever he uses, I used what came in my package and I love it, incredible improvement over my previous home job.

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Wow, a Glock trigger thread with Flex, Tdean, and was ole SS on here too?

Feels like old times.

I bought an expensive trigger job several years ago and it has held up just great, I still shoot it.

Best advice? TDEAN.

And to summarize what he and Flex$ said, the Glock can stand for a little improvement in the trigger area but you don't have to spend a bunch and make sure it still works.

Before you do that buy some good sights. Good advice from a pair of Glock GM's.

Sounds like Ralph has a great deal going, can't wait to meet him.

TomB

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I have noticed it gets lighter and better the more you use it.

Yes it does.

I could actually enjoy shooting this G17 quite a bit more than I thought I would...

I got a pre/overtravel trigger housing from CV to replace the Lonewolf overtravel housing that's in it now. This little project is shaping right up.

Travis F.

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Interesting your comment there about the trigger return spring - I notice that my reset is now a rather dramatically loud click. Is that typical, all you folks out there w/ installed kits?

My G17 has the same click. It is reduced with wear but it is a nice thing to have if you do not let the trigger all the way forward.

Have not tried a CV or DR either and probably won't now either

TBH, Charlie did my G34 before Ralph started doing his. I don't have any issues with Charlie's work. He took care of one problem. It's a great trigger now that it's right.

But I don't think I would have ordered the Vanek if Ralph's were available. The difference really doesn't make it worth the extra $$$.

If a Limited G35 ever happens, Ralph has my business.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received my kit, but have not installed it yet. As noted above it sure does have quite a well polished surface. Is there any particular type of oil or lube recommended for connector/trigger bar/safety plunger? Also, how frequently do these parts need to be oiled/lubed?

Thanks,

Doug

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Doug, Glocks don't need a lot of lube. You especially don't want any lube at all in the stiker channel. Many people have had great success with Mobil One (the heavier one that goes to 50 weight - stays on the slide better). I clean my Glocks between 500 and 1000 rounds.

Have fun with your trigger kit, I like mine.

Rick

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Have been using Kellube on both 1911's for a good while and last season Gun Butter on Glock's, great stuff. Personally never even put one dorp of oil on any Glock, get one/some of the needle oiler bottles, same as Gun butter comes in, from Brownell's and put a pinpoint where it's really needed. Makes cleaning much easier in the long run. Gun butter does not migrate and has the uncanny ability not to collect much firing residue at all compared to many of the other "super" lubes.

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Thanks SRT, thats exactly the info I was looking for and I happen to have some slide glide and will use that when I install the kit. Oiling these particular parts was something that Ralph's instructions specified. Clay, as to general glock cleaning, after a trip to the range, I always do a field strip and clean with M Pro 7 and use one drop of Miltec oil on each of the recommended spots. I must say that I do not like the needle oiler that came with the Miltec; when turning the bottle upside down it leaks from the cap. Also, have heard a lot of positive comments on Gun Butter as Bugs recommends.

Thanks,

Doug

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Ok... joining the party... ordered a kit tonight.

BTW -- The Triggerkit.com site has a message saying that the price of the kit will increase to cover increased cost of materials and shipping on Feb 1. Did not indicate by how much...

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I bought one of the two pound drop in triggers for my G22 and put it in last Friday....WOW! It is great and I am going to buy another for my G24. Add good sights (I have Wilson on one and Heine on the other) and you'll have something.

With a useful trigger and good sights it makes shooting a Glock, fun. If you have a Glock as a play gun and not a carry gun: you just got to spend the $65 for this trigger.

Thanks guys for recommending it.

Buddy

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"Thanks guys for recommending it."

Only FWIW, personally don't often rec. anything for Glocks except maybe sightrs, much less "drop-in" complete trigger kits but this one IS just exc. and a great bargin on top of it!

Good Shooting!

Bugs

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