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Dies for 650


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I am just about to order a 650, at this stage to load 9mm only, and wanted to know:

 

1) should I order Dillon dies when I buy the press? I have a lot of single stage loading experience for rifle ammo, but never used any Dillon equipment until now. So I have no idea on the best die setup for the 650 press.

 

2) If I do get Dillon dies, should I get carbide? I have only ever used hardened steal dies to reload with in the past. For many years I always heard that the advantage with carbide dies was not having to lube cases, but searching the topic on this forum shows a lot of people suggesting using case lube even with carbide dies. I can see that carbide dies would last a lifetime of reloading, but is that their only advantage?

 

 

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Like most folks I ordered Dillon dies when I bought my press. I soon got tired of unlocking the nut and trying to make a very small adjustment with friggin pipe threads. lol

  I now run a mix of EGW Udie, Redding seater and still a Dillon crimp since I rarely move it.

  Save 50 bucks and just buy some LEE carbide dies. They are great!

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2 hours ago, camaross400 said:

I use a variety of dies. For 9mm, I use the Dillon Carbide Resizing and Depriming Die (came with my 1050), Redding Competition Seater Die and the Lee factory Crimp Die.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I  always wanted to try this setup seems like you get the best of everything 

Edited by Smeeg
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I got the 9mm dies when i purchased my 650. One: it was easy to just order them with the 650 on the website. Two i have had good luck with Dillon dies in the past. I load 9mm for target practice and the occasional uspsa match and they have exceeded my expectations in reliability and consistency when loading.

 

I purchased the regular steel dies. I figured the extra cost wasn't worth it for 9mm. I'll load a thousand or so at a time and haven't had any issues. I also load 223 with dillon dies but for 223 i purchased the carbide dies. Just my two cents. Good luck

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I like a Dillon die in station one.  The Lee dies don't align the brass quite as well if it is off a little and you have to use a little more care.  I don't change my match loads once there set so it doesn't matter too much that the Dillon dies are less friendly to adjust.

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I bought Dillon dies when I first bought my 650 set up for .45. Rounds would chamber but they were snug. Bought a Lee FCD and used the Dillon size and seat die and holy cow they are loose in the barrel now. So after that I've bought all Lee 4 die sets for 380, 9mm, and 40S&W. Each caliber is slightly different even with the Lee dies so you will need to get used to how you like each operation to run and will likely pick up a separate die here and there to improve what you may find needs improving on your particular press.

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For 9mm: Redding comp seating die and the rest are Dillon. Had a Lee FCD for a while but the LED lights I put in do not allow room for the Lee lock ring (which goes on the bottom of the toolhead).

 

For 45: Lee FCD and the rest are Dillon. When I start reloading 45 again, I'll likely change the toolhead to the 9mm setup.

 

Incidentally, the LED light setup is really nice. It is unobtrusive, allows you to see case charges, and helps cleaning, adjustments and troubleshooting.  

https://reloadinginnovations.com/collections/featured-reloading-products/products/dillon-650-press-lighting-kit

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I have Dillon dies for 9mm, but shortly I will be ordering the EGW U-Die as I have a lot that are failing to plunk. They all have a slight bulge on the bottom of the case where it is not getting resized.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Before I finally bought a Dillon 650, I used Lee equipment.  When I ordered the Dillon, chose to keep and use the Lee dies.  I load 9mm, 40S&W, 45ACP, and 223, all using Lee dies. They work perfectly.  In a Dillon with Lee dies, remove the rubber O-Ring from the lee die locking rings and use the locking rings with the groove for the O-ring on top. This will let you turn the shorter Lee dies deeper into the Dillon tool head. Or, simply buy Dillon locking rings.

Edited by Gpruitt54
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20 hours ago, Edge40 said:

As a side note my lee factory crimp die works fine with the reloading innovations light.

 

That's good to know. As noted above, I took out the FCD when I put the light on. I'm assuming you put the ring on the bottom of the toolhead and then just snugged the light to the ring. Or found a work around to put the lockring on the top of the toolhead.

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1 hour ago, lgh said:

 

That's good to know. As noted above, I took out the FCD when I put the light on. I'm assuming you put the ring on the bottom of the toolhead and then just snugged the light to the ring. Or found a work around to put the lockring on the top of the toolhead.

Lock ring is on the top of the tool head.  Why would it be on the bottom?

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9 hours ago, Edge40 said:

Lock ring is on the top of the tool head.  Why would it be on the bottom?

The lock ring on lee dies is thicker than Dillon lock rings.  Sometimes when you get the die positioned correctly, there aren't enough threads on the top of the die to lock them. 

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4 hours ago, muncie21 said:

The lock ring on lee dies is thicker than Dillon lock rings.  Sometimes when you get the die positioned correctly, there aren't enough threads on the top of the die to lock them. 

Ok you refreshed my memory. I have the dillon lock ring on that die.  The dillon rings require less threads and space to lock down.  Had to use one on another one of my dies too.  Theres nothing fancy about them but they work fine.   

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