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cleaning up trigger pull on M&P 9 pro


mjkten

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I bought the M&P 9 pro to play with in IDPA SSP. The take-up is gritty,  the actual pull weight and reset seem ok to me.  What is the fix? I don't want any reliability issues.  I've looked at the Apex site and they seem to be the company to go with.  Don't really believe it will improve my scores,  but a sweet trigger pull is very satisfying. 

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I want to stay IDPA SSP legal, new trigger is out for me. If I wanted to play in ESP I could probably do it.

But they have an action enhancement kit I'm wondering about. About 92 bucks for the parts.

If any of you have experience shooting or installing this kit, I'd love to hear about it.

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Buy the Apex DCAEK kit. Pull weight is the same (actually goes up a tad), but it is butter smooth and it will light primers no problem. It uses the original trigger blade so it is USPSA Production legal (dunno about IDPA). I have several and they are very nice if you cannot change the trigger blade.

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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There are three Apex trigger options for the M&P:

 

1) Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Kit: Smooths the trigger but does not decrease weight. Pull feels like a nice, light DA revolver, with stop at break close to imperceptible. Uses factory trigger blade, so is USPSA Production legal. I have this trigger kit installed in my home defense handguns, and used it for USPSA Production before I got tired of picking up mags after each stage.

2) Competition Action Enhancement Kit: Same basic parts as the DCAEK, but with lighter springs and a reduced power striker spring. The overall pull weight is lightened, and there is more of a 2-stage feel. However, the lighter striker spring may result in FTFire with harder primers... I would recommend Federal primers if using this kit to ensure reliable ignition. Probably only makes sense for a competition gun under USPSA Production and similarly restrictive rules.

3) Forward Set Sear Kit: This comes in several variants with different trigger blades, but all deliver minimal take-up. The pull approaches a good 1911 trigger, and IMHO is the best drop-in M&P trigger available (I have several). It uses the standard striker spring, so primer ignition is no problem. The down side is that, by changing the trigger blade, the kit is not USPSA Production legal. For USPSA Limited or 3-Gun, it is a great choice. I personally would not use this trigger in a carry gun, but YMMV.

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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I own multiple M&Ps for self defense and competition. The gritty take-up will go away after you get some rounds through it. 

 

As detailed by StealthyBlagga, there are multiple options available.

 

I have the  Competition Action Enhancement Kit in my main competition pistol. For my pistol, It smoothed out the gritty take-up and lowered the trigger pull weight from about 5 1/2 lbs down to 3lbs 10 oz.  I have never had any issues with light strikes with two of these kits but ymmv. 

 

Not mentioned here, Apex also offers their Apex M&P Competition Spring Kit part no. 100-065 for $25.95. This kit will reduce the overall trigger pull about a pound. As mentioned above the gritty take-up will go away with some use or you can lightly polish the striker block or purchase a separate Ultimate Striker Block. 

 

Good luck to you!

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If you like the factory pull weight get an Apex usb.  That will smooth out the takeup.

 

If you want the "works" get a sear, usb and comp spring kit for the sear and trigger return spring.

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The gritty take up is the striker block and the trigger bar.  If you want to get rid of that remove and polish the striker block or replace it with the APEX ultimate striker block (USB) and polish the trigger bar.  

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On ‎7‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 7:55 PM, Magsz said:

If you like the factory pull weight get an Apex usb.  That will smooth out the takeup.

 

If you want the "works" get a sear, usb and comp spring kit for the sear and trigger return spring.

You know, I bought the pistol for IDPA...I may as well trick it out.

Thanks for the feedback.

Don't think it's any magic ticket to better scoring, but it should be more fun to shoot, and with practice, should help my scores.

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I dont see the point in dealing with Burwell when you can get an amazing trigger pull with drop in parts.

 

The only saving grace that Burwell has is that he removes pre travel but...if you know how to run a trigger, who cares.  Id rather save myself the headache of having to deal with him.

Edited by Magsz
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5 hours ago, Magsz said:

I dont see the point in dealing with Burwell when you can get an amazing trigger pull with drop in parts.

 

The only saving grace that Burwell has is that he removes pre travel but...if you know how to run a trigger, how cares.  Id rather save myself the headache of having to deal with him.

 

I didn't mean send your gun to him.  I mean do it yourself.  There are excellent instructions to follow.  Some folks prefer drop in parts, some like to tinker

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I tried the Burwell DIY process on my early factory trigger before Apex DCAEK was available, but the trigger was still inferior and IMHO not worth the small amount of $$$ saved (you will likely have to buy the stones to do the modifications to the sear). I replaced the modified trigger with an Apex kit as soon as it was available, and haven't looked back.

 

As a general comment, I am not sure I would trust the MIM sear in the standard M&P to hold a stoned edge. IIRC the Pro has a machined Performance Center sear that is a bit more trustworthy, but still inferior to the Apex option.

Edited by StealthyBlagga
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I tried the Burwell DIY process on my early factory trigger before Apex DCAEK was available, but the trigger was still inferior and IMHO not worth the small amount of $$$ saved (you will likely have to buy the stones to do the modifications to the sear). I replaced the modified trigger with an Apex kit as soon as it was available, and haven't looked back.
 
As a general comment, I am not sure I would trust the MIM sear in the standard M&P to hold a stoned edge. IIRC the Pro has a machined Performance Center sear that is a bit more trustworthy, but still inferior to the Apex option.


Agreed.

Like you, I have a lot of experience with these pistols.

Having said that & like you, I wouldn't be screwing around with the OEM sear (or any sear for that matter) It is so much easier to just buy an Apex sear or a complete Apex kit.


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One other option for a superior Production-legal trigger is to install the Apex FSS kit WITHOUT the Apex trigger blade. By leaving the original S&W factory trigger in the gun, the external appearance is not changed, but the forward set sear will advance the break point considerably. Instead, there will be ridiculous overtravel, but that can be fixed by adding a filler in the back of the sear block. Worth a look if you are willing to tinker.

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That is something that I did years ago.  I liked the setup but its only really necessary if you find that your finger needs to break further forward in the trigger arc, ie a 90 degree "flat" break point.

 

Its up to the shooter.

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My carry m&p has a DCAEK in it. Great trigger the USB really improves the feel. 

 

When I shot IDPA SSP I used the CAEK again the USB is what really improves the feel, but the spring set makes the pull much lighter. I never had an issue setting off cci primers if I could not find federal.

 

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If I can't get the rear sight off without mutilating it, I may just send that USB part back to Apex.

I like the rear sight that comes on the Pro model and don't want to damage it. I imagine many people are replacing the rear sight along with installing the USB.

I'm going to give it some more focused pounding and see how it goes.

Update- bigger hammer and a new determination made the difference. Apex USB is now installed in the 9 pro. Pre-travel grit is gone. Reset may be a bit more distinct. Unsure if I'd do it again.  But it's a little bit nicer. 

Edited by mjkten
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Strong clicky reset is a marketing gimmick used to sell guns to recreational "tactial" guys who don't know any better.

 

Go shoot a match with a silent-resetting gun that has identical trigger travel to one that you are used to from a thousand reps of dryfire. It'll make absolutely zero difference.

 

No one actually uses the reset in a match at any kind of speed. Especially the guys who yell loudest that it's the one true way. I had to film a buddy (who preaches reset) coming almost completely off the trigger before he'd beleive me.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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