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Trubor cmore mount removal


roklock

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OK, I am struggling to get the screws out of my STI mount so I can try a Cheely 90 degree mount.

I have tried a soldering iron, and a propane torch but I have now twisted off (broken) two allen wrenches. Any other ideas? Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Steve

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Try a butane pencil torch instead of a regular propane torch. Concentrate on the screw. If it's red loctite, which would be the norm, they will break loose.

I can't believe your screws are not stripping before the wrench breaks. Those little suckers strip really easily

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I had the same problem. I actually paid a local gunsmith $81.00 to remove one screw. I went to a hardware store and bought the easy out tool to remove broken screws. Believe it or not I used a hand drill to make a pilot hole to use the easy out. I now no longer need to pay $81.00. It is not that difficult. However it was difficult to drill a$4000.00 open gun by a non gunsmith person.

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I had the same problem, broke a couple allen wrenches tried all the chemicals and the heat tricks could not anything to work. I ended up drilling a pilot hole in each screw and then using a dremel tool and cut a deep slot in each of the screws and was able to get them out. It should be a given that I destroyed the mount but got it off.

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Thanks for all of the suggestions, will give it another go...I think I will be using blue locktite to put on the next mount on.

I can't believe your screws are not stripping before the wrench breaks. Those little suckers strip really easily

Yeah, not yet BUT I am seeing the beginning of that on two of them.

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i revived a similar thread just a month or so ago. was able to remove a screw or two with heat from a match, but ended up buying a pencil butane torch (at lowe's) and applied it to the threaded ends of the remaining screws inside the frame and they finally broke free.

with the new scope mount i went ahead and used red loctite as i didn't want the new mount/screws backing out. used blue on another mount and the oil and cleaning chems loosened them up over time.

Edited by davsco
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Using stubby Allen wrenches help greatly, there isn't as much flex to them so they don't twist as easily.

I always use red on my mounts, I prefer to heat on the inside of the gun instead of on the mount side.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...

you are lucky. I foolishly used stainless screws and the head part stripped before I broke a wrench. now it's a real pain.

it sounds like you need to try more heat. what I find helps is get the frame in a vice first so it's nice and solid and also so you don't have to touch it.

assuming it's a 2011 ideally get the grip off it and just have the bare frame in the vice. use the soldering iron or butane torch on the inside of the screw and use a quality (like bonhus etc) hex wrench on it. give it a hard jerk (even hold it in the screw pushing down so it's seated then tap the allen wrench with a hammer). this works far better than just slowly increasing your pressure. you want a sharp burst of torque to break it loose.

good luck. :)

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Okay - how long did you guys heat up the screw (from the inside of frame) with a pencil torch? I heat it up for about a minute and tried using an allen, but no luck :angry2:

once I used the butane pencil torch it was well less than a minute. Just kept turning pressure on the screw and it finally broke free.
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