goldfieldshooter Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 If you are using Forster Bench Rest Dies read the instructions thoroughly as the set up is different to your normal rifle die. The neck is supported on the upstroke and if only the slightest bit out of adjustment it will rip the rim off. Adjusted correctly they turn out brilliant ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtaylor996 Posted November 8, 2015 Share Posted November 8, 2015 I adjusted them exactly as the instructions stated. I went through their procedure twice to make sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NatureBoy Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I just did my first caliber conversion on my 650 from .308 to .223 and processed ~1000 rounds. I have to say I had no problems. I actually found them a bit easier than .308, which goes counter to a lot of stories I've read on the web. I even found an accurate load that shot sub 1/2 MOA groups through my Savage model 12. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisd Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 After reloading for 20 years I have run into a new problem. My .270 reloads are now failing to extract from my bolt gun and when I finally get them out they are showing multiple, vertical scratches around the case neck. It's happening with new brass as well as brass that has been reloaded several times. Always full length resize. Any suggestions on why this would suddenly start happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 If the scratches aren't there when placed in rifle chamber, then the rifle is causing them. If there before placing in chamber you may have something in the reloading dies causing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisd Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 Thanks Steve, Scratches are being caused by the rifle...they are clean before being loaded. What could be causing this? What could happen to the rifle that would lead to this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve RA Posted November 26, 2015 Share Posted November 26, 2015 (edited) You need to examine the neck area of your chamber and see what may be causing the scratches. If feeding out of a magazine it's possible that something at the entrance of the chamber could be causing it. I'd check the neck area first since you say you are having problems with extraction of the fired cases. Edited November 26, 2015 by Steve RA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPatton Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Well, my second ever 300BLK case just got stuck in the die. The press pulled the head off the case, and since the spindle was stuck in the die (but loose), I tried to hammer the case out by the spindle. Pretty sure everything is destroyed at this point I was using one shot lube, and it was a forester bench rest full length sizing die. ARGGHHHHHH!!!!! So far, I HATE reloading rifle. Did the rim come off the case or did the case head actually come off? If you pulled the head off the case you may have been resizing a case with the makings of a case head separation. I haven't had a case head actually come off in the die......yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtaylor996 Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Rim came off, not the head. The die wasn't finished properly. Forster sent me a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPatton Posted December 3, 2015 Share Posted December 3, 2015 Rim came off, not the head. The die wasn't finished properly. Forster sent me a new one. Invest in or make a stuck case removal tool. Pretty simple and sooner or later you will need it. The one I made allows me to remove the case without removing the die from the tool head, eliminating the pain of resetting the die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRodriguez Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 (edited) spray the inside of the sizing die with some fast drying silicone before you start reloading. even though your are lubing the cases, until you get some lube transferred to the die, you risk sticking a case. If you are neck sizing at the same as case sizing, then you are sticking when you are trying to pull the expander back through the neck. the silicone will help get it out. the bad thing about using a neck expander is that you will get case stretch, especially in a light case like a .223 and end up doing a lot more trimming. if you can, get a hold of some redding dies with neck sizing bushings. Edited January 2, 2016 by JohnRodriguez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quag Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 excellent video by Wilson Use a case gauge and check that you are not over sizing the shoulder of the case. The case gauge is necessary to properly sizing .223 or any rifle caliber. Are you using a full length sizer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredlegentil Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 One Shot is great for pistol brass and does not need to be cleaned off but does not well with rifle brass Case lube is the key (ask me how I know ...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kosh75287 Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 The other exasperating situation is when you buy brass for cheap and find out too late that it was shot through a machine gun with attendant generous chamber dimensions. If you find yourself beset by a huge pie of these, I recommend buying an RCBS Rockchucker, Imperial Case Sizing wax, large quantities of Aleve, Prozac, Xanax, your favorite 12-year-old single-malt scotch, and some 4' x 4' poster board on which you may write in bright letters over your reoading bench, "NEVER buy MACHINE GUN brass AGAIN!" Expect to run each case through the sizing die at least twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NateTSU Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I use RCBS FL small base dies, it requires a lot of force to fully size them. I switched from an aresol lubricant to a gel type and roller pad. This helped but didn't solve the problem. My friend polished his dies with Flitz and it made it smoother but I haven't had time polish mine. I bought a stuck case removal kit from midway and have used it more times than I care to admit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 I must be lucky. Dillon dies, Dillon case lube, over 8k pieces of 223 brass sized with minimal effort and not even a hint of case sticking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lefty o Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 i am simply amazed by how many have stuck cases. one shot works well, ive done well over 10,000 rifle casings with it and never stuck a single case. if you dont get enough lube on the case, yes you risk sticking one, dont care who's lube you use. if you feel a case is tight going into the sizing die, dont force it, pull it out and assess why! sizing cases isnt powerlifting, use some finness, and you wont stick cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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