jtaylor996

I'm thinking about getting the coolfire system, but I also need a shot timer. What timer are you using that picks up the coolfire well? Thanks!

I would guess the problem was bullet profile vs rifling, rather than case dimensions.

This thing exists, both as 3d printed and aluminium. https://www.bragginrightsprecisionreloading.com/product-page/budget-powder-drop-lock-plate-for-hornady-ap-press I don't have one, as I usually have crap in the way keeping it from turning (bullet feeders usually). I do have the alignment kit from him and it works.

I second the cam lock bullet puller from hornady. Easy to do several hundred per hour, and bullets usually are still good enough to use again.

I use this on coated bullets with no issues that I know of so far. But then again my crimp just removes any bell and is super light otherwise. What problems have been caused by using this on coated bullets?

I need to do some work on my SFx as right now I shoot my stock elite combat executive way faster. The ECE has a 507GR, so that's the first thing going on the SFX. But the gun still moves a lot on me shooting minor loads (147FP). I just shoot local club matches, and this gun I can either run in CO or Open. Strangely my club doesn't define those specifically. I'm guessing USPSA rules. I guess I could go open, I don't care if I win much I just want to shoot faster and get better, but I don't really want to deal with a comp. So what is my optimal config to reduce muzzle flip? W74 guide rod and the TF brass kit (is that a must, though?)? What about springs?

I finally had a chance to "hypodermic bevel" the decap pin on my hornady die. Doesn't seem to make any difference. Ugh. And I hear people get pullback with the dillon die as well. Has anyone had success with the mighty armory TNT die yet?

I find myself interested in this unit... seems like a real upgrade from my LNL, but man my only interaction with FA service was over my dead vibraprime... and it took them more than 2 months to even respond to my inquiry. Has anyone else actually used FA's service and support before and had better luck? Maybe they just blew me off because it was just a vibraprime?

9mm

Nothing is easy to come by right now... especially if it has any relation to 9mm anything. Since I'm waiting on stock, I'll try to bevel the decap pin in the hornady die later tonight and see if that works any. I found another thread on here from 11ya where people were saying that they were getting pull back with the dillon spring dies, and dillon had told them to put a hypodermic type bevel on the pin. I'll run a couple hundred tonight like that and see what happens.

Those in stock anywhere?

Anybody have one? i love my hornady tc size die, but having a primer flicker would save me a bunch of headaches at the press. mighty armory has TNT die that has a decap flicker kit, but it’s damn expensive... too much to blind buy and hope it works. Anybody use this die?

I shot my first bulk processed batch of the 3.5gr n320 (1.140” oal) brazos 147fp. Definitely a winner in my guns. I may order more soon.

I ran ladders with my Brazos 147. 3.5gr n320 at 1.140 works out really well for me.

I just got my brazos order in today. They look good. The coating could be a little thicker, but they're all 100% coated. No defects in the 1 15# batch I looked through. Worst I saw was a few that had slightly different color. I took 10 out and weighed them. They're a little more than 147. They averaged 149.82gr, and SD was only .63gr. I measured the dia on the same 10, and every single one was .3565 (I don't have the best calipers). No problems for me, imma chootem.

I have a kimber 9 that runs like a sewing machine... now. Well over 5k, I stopped counting long ago. It runs tripp and metalform mags well. EGW HD extractor (I had to cut a swartz relief in it), and I fitted a s70 egw FPS on it as well (to prevent extractor clocking and get rid of the unneeded and interfering s80 gap). I left a very small radius on it. feels nice. I may do another with a huge radius to speed the slide up. EGW mic'd firing pin to fit the breechface better. wolff recoil spring, and probably main spring as well. I upgraded to a better trigger (cylnder and slide) but that didn't have anything to do with reliability. I think I put an ed brown grip safety on it as well. If I had to do it again I would certainly not go kimber based on the amount of work I ended up doing to get it to run well and be to my liking, and the fact that it still could use a more accurate barrel. I either go with something cheap and work it up (RIA?) or dan wesson or les baer or something of that tier. But this one was my first gun. I'll keep it forever and pass it on to my kids.

I'll let you know how mine look when they show up. I got 4 15# bags (so 2.8k).

Well that sucks, I just ordered 4 bags of those. Probably from the same batch. Ugh. You got any plans on what to do with them?

I used a lee app to decap/swage. I’ll bevel the rod next batch to prevent it.

IF you have room on the rail. IF you have room under the scope in the right spot to get it off vertically.

Sure seems like a do-it-all die. I've got it and ran a couple of rounds through it. I did my brass prep on a Lee APP, and so I have flared necks I may need to take care of. It seems the can catch on the bushing. I guess I'll try the lee neck collet die to correct that before running a big batch through. I haven't reloaded 223 before, so not a lot of experience with it. I've got some hornady 52gr and just picked up some 69gr SMK. I'll be loading over BLC2, for a 16" nordic barrel. I know everyone here likes the forster dies for 223, but they haven't been available in months.

I recommend the sheridan engineering slotted 300BLK gauge. It will tell you everything you need to know, as well as if you ogive is good for the chamber. However, I've been playing with an OAL gauge lately, and there's no way in hell any super bullet gets in the same zipcode as the rifling in this caliber when it fits in a case at all, much less mag length. I bet you just need a small base size die.

Cool. Yesterday I clamped on a crappy cardboard wiper and it really helped. Hornady should have made a wiper a standard feature.

The material and construction of the bowl is completely different. Maybe the motor and switch are the same, but that's it. The mounting arm has different geometry, and the drop tubes are completely different as well. My funnel had cracked. It was a clear plastic molded piece that was the entire front of the motor housing. The new funnel is just the funnel itself, for instance.

I like the caldwell that DOESN'T mount to the rail. I like the one with the little bungy/velcro strap. I have both. The strap is easier to get on off than the mount, if there's even room for the mount, and it seems just about as secure to me.