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40 cal crimp ?


lucas

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Why measure? As long as the flare is removed, you are good to go.

Since chambers all vary, someone's "ideal" might not be ideal in your gun--if there is even an ideal.

If one wants to measure, and taking it to the next step, then one should adjust for varying case wall thickness if it is so important.

Don't over-think taper crimp.

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Why measure? As long as the flare is removed, you are good to go.

Since chambers all vary, someone's "ideal" might not be ideal in your gun--if there is even an ideal.

If one wants to measure, and taking it to the next step, then one should adjust for varying case wall thickness if it is so important.

Don't over-think taper crimp.

I just pulled several 10mm loads that had bad PMC brass and it made me reevaluate my crimping.

I was thinking 10mm needed to crimp tight so I put a .003 taper crimp on it but by the time it would actually measure .003 difference I was crushing the bullet. I didn't know that until I pulled these rounds.

Since, I have lightened up to .001 or .002 and still have plenty of neck tension and I want to believe a more accurate round...we'll see.

I just started loading them back up.

But I like to measure and know what I have going on yes there is variance between case length and thickness but I believe an average can be had.

JMHO

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Crimp does not set the neck tension.

Neck tension is a function of the bullet fit in the case.

The function of "crimp" in an auto loading pistol is simply to remove the flare that is needed to fit the bullet into the case so that it doesn't get shaved.

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If you forget again, here is a good rule of thumb. Measure the bullet, should be around .400-.401. Measure the case wall thickness of the brass at the mouth. Multiply that by two. Add the bullet measurement to the case wall x 2 measurement. That should get you very close to where you want your "crimp", which isn't really a crimp, it's just a removing of the bell/flair of the case mouth you did to make the bullet seating easier.

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Since chambers all vary, someone's "ideal" might not be ideal in your gun--if there is even an ideal.

Truth.

I have to run mine at .419 for a custom build. I would get feeding issues if I went with .420. However, I used to run .420 when using a Brazos Edge.

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All of mine "crimp" to .421" does not matter if it is coated, jacketed, or whatever. The chamber diameter will not make have an impact on the diameter of the case mouth as long as it is below the bullet diameter (.400") + 2 wall thicknesses (.011 x 2= .022) .422". Above that number you will likely not be removing the bell which could lead to a sharp edge grabbing the edge of the chamber.

The two major areas that cause chambering problems are the over all length being to long and the bullet hitting the rifling, and the case not being sized properly and the base of the case being larger than the chamber diameter. I have had cases that measure as much as .432". You can size the top of the case but if you do not take the base down to less than the chamber diameter you will have feeding issues. My chamber measures out to .426" which is very close to the SAAMI minimum for a chamber diameter, and ALL of my finished .40 rounds have a max diameter of .423".

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Crimp does not set the neck tension.

Neck tension is a function of the bullet fit in the case.

The function of "crimp" in an auto loading pistol is simply to remove the flare that is needed to fit the bullet into the case so that it doesn't get shaved.

+1

I wonder how many times this will be have to be repeated in the forum.

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>Crimp does not set the neck tension.

Neck tension is a function of the bullet fit in the case.

The function of "crimp" in an auto loading pistol is simply to remove the flare that is needed to fit the bullet into the case so that it doesn't get shaved.

>+1

>I wonder how many times this will be have to be repeated in the forum.

As long as the word crimp is used and folks don't read their manuals in depth.

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More likely, it will continue until manufacturers stop calling them crimp dies, crimp stations, etc.

Either way, everyone here knows what was meant by it, so no need to drive it into the dirt.

Maybe so but bullets with a cannelure will SOMTIMES need a real crimp, i.e. the 44mag, 454, 460 etc. and that is why they are called "crimp" dies.

Maybe some dies should be labeled "case wall straightening dies" instead of crimp dies.

This topic has already been driven into the dirt. Maybe it should have its own section in the forum rather than being a "topic" in General Reloading.

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