captain037

Bobby Carver is top notch. I had this same conversation with him when building my Glock. I too built a 22 with kkm conversion barrel. Bobby said that while his comp is more efficient, the sjc is lighter. He recommended the sjc strictly for that reason. He said that with the added weight of the conversion barrel a heavier comp might interfere with barrel lock up and release. I bought all my stuff from Bobby and you have to hand it to a guy that will do what's best for the customer even if it means recommending someone else's product. He made a life long customer out of me. My gun runs great by the way.

Yup Atlas, I don't have video but I " perceive" the dot to bounce to 12 oclock and back down. If I don't do my part and limp wrist it the dot will leave. I shoot a 124 jhp and 8.0 hs6. I tried 115's but they were too flippy for me. Just the reverse of what you would think. My gun is muzzle heavy as it's a .40 converted to 9. The 9 barrel is way thicker. It is a combination of more than just a few elements to make it work.

Start with the dot staying in the glass during recoil and go from there. That's the beginning of flat.

I've got a Carver and a Glockworks and can't tell any difference between the two.

Check out Green Mountain Rifle Barrels. I have been happy with mine.

Wow, that's a lot to answer. Firstly, a cronograph will not keep you safe. It will give you load velocity and sd. SD is the deviation in velocity between each round of the same load. In other words, if you shoot three rounds of 9mm 125 grn jhp with 8 grains of hs6 and they crono 1500, 1505 and 1510 sd is the difference in the three. The smaller the sd the more consistant the load and the more accurate it should be. One way to avoid dangerous loads is to closely watch the condition of your fired brass. Look for excessive primer flattening and split or overly stretched brass. Start with 10% below published loads and work up slowly. Use the crono to monitor velocity and sd. Check brass condition. Remember different powders react differently to heat or cold. Some spike pressure in the heat and some in the cold. When in doubt, don't load it. It's not velocity that indicates internal pressure. Companies use strain guages to develop safe loads and data for publication. . If you're not a very experienced reloaded, go slow pushing the envelope. If you don't have a good reason like shooting major loads for uspsa open, published loads are fine. I hope this helps some and guys, correct anything I got wrong.

I find that I need more with lead bullets and way less with jacketed. So, it really does depend on the bullet. With jacketed, I just take the bell out. With lead I have to crimp a lot to make them function.

If you have a Fastnal close just run by there. They will size them and give you the right thread and length.

I get all kinds of replacement screws at Fastenal.

I could see a problem if an attorney grilled you on the stand about the modification (ie) are you a glock certified armorer? If not how do you know the mod was safe? Then accuse you of " installing a hair trigger" so you could kill someone easier. You know where I'm going with this. I carried glock 35 with a 3 lb connector from the factory for years up until I retired from the pd. IF you get into a shooting chances of them going far enough to look for mods are probably slim but I have seen crazier things in court. Depends on the attorney. Did you see the George Zimmerman case?

It's really a simple job. Any competent gunsmith should be able to do it.

http://www.adi-powders.com.au/handloaders/equivalents.asp Maybe this will help.

3.0 grn of Titegroup is even lower recoiling. I shoot tons in my Glock 35 with 180 lead or plated bullets.

I use the 115 and 124 jhp all the time. The base is solid. They put the jacket on upside down compaired to the fmj's . No problems.

No, precision delta 124 jhp. The jacket is solid on the base.