Best 1911 for beginners

[BASE772]

Dawson makes two different style magwells. One is shorter without the plastic insert.

Edited July 4, 2015 by BASE772

[racknrider]

A set of VZs wouldn't hurt either. I have a Spartan (9&45) and a Range Officer (45), the RO is fit better and for some reason I shoot it way better than either Spartan.

[Watermelonassassin]

OK so it looks like I am going to use a R.O for a while and I am going to build from scratch a 1911 to replace it with (I have a post in gunsmithing about it) One of my friends is working on getting a tokarev caliber conversion running and is completely convinced it will be a game changer. I don't understand this at all. Anyone have any ideas what he is on about? Should I get a tok conversion?

[terrydoc]

On a Spartan, Techwell and grips, ext mag release is about all to start with.

http://techwearusa.com/techwell/

Edited July 4, 2015 by terrydoc

[zzt]

WMA, I've said the same thing on other posts, but it bears repeating. Forget the Spartan. Go to a gun shop that carries Springfields and look at them. Anything from a Ro on up is a good deal. Sometime you run into a great deal. A friend recently stumbled onto a deal on a Springfield Custom Shop model. It was all tricked out with FO sights, lightened slide and trigger job. He paid $1045 for it.

If you opt for a Range Officer, look at several. Make sure the slide to frame fit is tight. I've never seen one that wasn't, but some posters say it happens. With a tight fit with no slide rattle, you have a pistol with a forged frame and slide and a match barrel. That gives you the more important parts already fitted. All the rest of the parts are MIM, but what do you expect for $800? The trigger will smooth out after about 300 rounds. You can convert the MSH to standard for about $20, and improve the pull a lot.

If you want, you have the basis of a true custom pistol, just by replacing the internal MIM parts with good billet parts as they wear.

[robertg5322]

Again personal preference enters here, I like the EGW magwell, it's like the Ed Brown or Wilson but only $49.00, Dawson Precision makes a really nice Ice magwell which a lot of people seem to like. Dawson Precision version is not IDPA legal if that's your game.

I do not shoot IDPA but I cannot find anything in the rules that would prevent the use of an ICE magwell in CDP.

8.2.3.2 CDP Permitted Features and Modifications (Inclusive list):

8.2.3.2.23 Modification of the magazine well and add-on well extensions.

It does need to fit in the box, but the IDPA box is the same height as the USPSA box so no problem here.

Please quote the rule that would prevent it's use.

I stand corrected. I don't usually shoot IDPA, and assumed it was outlawed because it works so well...

My bad.

[robertg5322]

A set of VZs wouldn't hurt either. I have a Spartan (9&45) and a Range Officer (45), the RO is fit better and for some reason I shoot it way better than either Spartan.

VZ Grips are nice, but pricey.

I've taken to using smooth Hogue wood grips (usually around $30.00) and cutting grip tape to fit them as well as the front strap.

Lighter too if making weight is an issue (it can be with 9mm 1911 guns).

[troupe]

Buy a Rock Island, same gun as the STI Spartan for less money. Another good start would be a used Ruger. All stainless and when you have work done to it, it will not have to be refinished. Used Ruger in the $600 range, Rock Island in the $450 range, in my part of the country. I have built 2 RI and they shot great for a beginner or experienced shooter. One was 9mm and the other was a 45. Nothing wrong with the SA , but if money is the issue, save and spend the extra money on ammo. The ammo will do more for improving the shooting than the $3000 pistol.

[Watermelonassassin]

Well I have gone and held a RO and the shop I went to also had some custom shop pistols but they were all really expensive. I am going to shop around a little and see if I can find a better deal out there. I am pretty much sold on Springfield Armory as a the manufacturer. But out of curiosity, I held a Kimber at the store and it seemed really nice. Anyone use Kimber?

[MikeRush]

Well I have gone and held a RO and the shop I went to also had some custom shop pistols but they were all really expensive. I am going to shop around a little and see if I can find a better deal out there. I am pretty much sold on Springfield Armory as a the manufacturer. But out of curiosity, I held a Kimber at the store and it seemed really nice. Anyone use Kimber?

I have, and only kept it because it was my first pistol. It has had the Kimber knocked out of it and now wears EGW and STI parts. They "seem" like nice guns, but do not hold up to abuse as well as some of the other makes, and trying to deal with warranty repairs was a nightmare.

STI or Springfield are much better bets. Also, as someone who tried to shoot .45 on a college student budget I would highly recommend you consider a 9. The only way I could afford to shoot it was by casting and reloading. 9mm just makes a lot more sense between those two calibers for your situation. My 45 is now a 40. I don't see much reason to shoot a 45 anymore.

[arnettcw1]

You might look for a used STI Sentry also. Excellent pistol with a forged frame. Magwell is a must as is fiber optic front sight and perhaps extended mag release. Next, for $125 add an Extreme Engineering Lite Speed or Lite Speed II trigger kit and a high quality billet ambi thumb safety.

[Watermelonassassin]

Is the extreme engineering lite speed and lite speed 2 good triggers? Are there better triggers on the market? Are there better bang for your buck triggers?

[lockmup68]

Dawson CRP STI.

[Watermelonassassin]

Dawson CRP STI.

That's way out of my price range.

[lockmup68]

The single stack Spartan was $800 or so.

[chbrow10]

I don't think the Springfield RO has an ambi safety, something that I think is important for classifier stages where you transfer the gun to the weak hand. Make sure you get one with a beavertail, especially if you have fat hands like me. Also, make sure you get a bushing barrel version if you want to compete in USPSA single stack. Bull barrels are not legal.

I don't think that you can beat a Rock Island for the value. I bought one in 2008 and compete regularly with it. I paid $400 for it back then, I think you can get them all day long for $460 now, which leaves lots of room for all the upgrades mentioned above. And if you stick with the sport but want to sell it later, you can remove the upgrades and sell it instantly for $350, having used the gun for all of $100. Then sell the upgrades as well.

Something to thing about is all the upgrades most people put on the gun. Here is what I have on mine, which I think are pretty typical:

New front sight: $40 plus install

Dawson Ice Magwell (much better than any other magwell and USPSA legal) $100

Extended mag release: $36

8 magazines (I use Tripps) 8 x $40 = $320 (you can find alternatives, but you will need 6-7 minimum. At least a $120, with el cheapos)

$176 before the magazines, probably $300, before shipping for all that. If you want to spend no more than $900 out the door, then that leaves a gun that is no more than $600. A Rock Island Tactical at list price of $460, plus $300, leaves you $140 for reloading components, or an adjustable rear sight (something the RO does have).

My two cents. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Edited July 5, 2015 by chbrow10

[Watermelonassassin]

Someone local to me has a S&W1911TA for sale for a great price. What is everyone's opinion of the S&W 1911's?

[terrydoc]

Spartan has both fiber front sight and adjustable rear sight

[PatJones]

The S&W guns have a firing pin safety that is operated by the grip safety. The grip safety needs to be _all_ the way down to deactivate it. It cannot be sensitized like a standard 1911 without removing the firing pin safety parts.

I'd look elsewhere unless you already own one or get a screaming deal.

Edited July 6, 2015 by PatJones

[jbultman]

Your overanalyzing this, I'm sorry to say... You said in your original post that your max base gun budget is $900, without upgrades. Did you consider getting the gun (whatever it may be, the suggestions in here I will concur. But narrow it down to a RO and used STI Trojan or Spartan) and just shooting it. Then figure out what upgrades you want to do later? I know that's not what you want to hear but it might be in your best interest as a college student (I was just in that same boat last year) and beginning uspsa shooter.

Also, in your max budget of $x, you'll need a belt, holster mag pouches and at minimum 8 magazines? Costs can add up quick, your looking at $700-900+ with the mods not including the gun. And upwards of $1500-2000 including the gun. A magwell is great, f/o sights are great, but practicing is going to be much more beneficial to you. The gun already has sights, grips, mag release, an opening for the magazine. No need to upgrade now, that can wait. It's got the barr essentials already.

Just my $0.02, take it as you wish.

Ohh.... Where are you going to store the gun? Being in college you can't have a gun on campus.

Hope all this helps!

--J

Edited July 6, 2015 by jbultman

[Hoosiershooter]

I'll admit I'm lazy and didn't wade through 3 pages. But my 2 cents is a SA loaded. I picked up a used one around 6. Buy 6 CMC mags and blast away. And down the road reloading .45 to me is the most rewarding. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[chbrow10]

If you want tons of info on the different brands of 1911s, check out the m1911 forum. Great information about the gun, but not much on the competition gun. For what it is worth, I'd pass on the S&W if it isn't a pure Series 70 design. While I am not familiar with the details of the S&W firing pin block, funky proprietary parts like that firing pin block and the kimber firing pin block system won't be compatible with upgrades to the gun, whenever you do them. And the tend to have a negative effect on the trigger pull. I pure Series 70 system like you will find on the STI and the RIA are the way to go.

Having said that, my son has a Sig Sauer Series 80 1911, and it was pretty easy to remove those parts and make it a series 70 system.

[MikeRush]

If you want tons of info on the different brands of 1911s, check out the m1911 forum. Great information about the gun, but not much on the competition gun. For what it is worth, I'd pass on the S&W if it isn't a pure Series 70 design. While I am not familiar with the details of the S&W firing pin block, funky proprietary parts like that firing pin block and the kimber firing pin block system won't be compatible with upgrades to the gun, whenever you do them. And the tend to have a negative effect on the trigger pull. I pure Series 70 system like you will find on the STI and the RIA are the way to go.

Having said that, my son has a Sig Sauer Series 80 1911, and it was pretty easy to remove those parts and make it a series 70 system.

The Kimber FPB is way easier to deal with than the series 80. You don't have to add any new parts to the gun to bypass it, only remove. After that it is all standard parts and smithing. It's driven off the grip safety and does not interfere with the trigger pull. There may be a million other reasons not to buy a Kimber, but that's pretty minor.

My understanding is the California approved S&W 1911s have a Schwartz (sp?) Style block but the rest of the lineup doea not. I wouldn'the be deterred by a grip safety activated FPB.

After doing a trigger job on a Series 80 commander I wouldn't buy one. Even if you bypass the spacer plate is an extra pain to reassemble and piece to lose.

Just my two cents as someone who has dealt with both.

[Watermelonassassin]

Your overanalyzing this, I'm sorry to say... You said in your original post that your max base gun budget is $900, without upgrades. Did you consider getting the gun (whatever it may be, the suggestions in here I will concur. But narrow it down to a RO and used STI Trojan or Spartan) and just shooting it. Then figure out what upgrades you want to do later? I know that's not what you want to hear but it might be in your best interest as a college student (I was just in that same boat last year) and beginning uspsa shooter.

Also, in your max budget of $x, you'll need a belt, holster mag pouches and at minimum 8 magazines? Costs can add up quick, your looking at $700-900+ with the mods not including the gun. And upwards of $1500-2000 including the gun. A magwell is great, f/o sights are great, but practicing is going to be much more beneficial to you. The gun already has sights, grips, mag release, an opening for the magazine. No need to upgrade now, that can wait. It's got the barr essentials already.

Just my $0.02, take it as you wish.

Ohh.... Where are you going to store the gun? Being in college you can't have a gun on campus.

Hope all this helps!

--J

I currently rent a house off campus so I am able to have guns there. I even have a big ole safe and all that. So it seems it would have been best to get a cheaper 1911 so I can get all the accessories. I didn't expect to immediately compete with it factory new. I would like a gun that has some benefits already there, but I honestly would need to practice more to get the self confidence behind the gun necessary to compete as right now I have maybe 5 mags through a 1911 in my lifetime. I have a range officer on order through the local gun store now. I just couldn't deny the quality. Now I need mags, belts, holsters, etc. It will probably take me a few months to slowly build the kit I need. All the while I will be shooting it as much as possible.

Edited July 7, 2015 by Watermelonassassin

[MikeRush]

Your overanalyzing this, I'm sorry to say... You said in your original post that your max base gun budget is $900, without upgrades. Did you consider getting the gun (whatever it may be, the suggestions in here I will concur. But narrow it down to a RO and used STI Trojan or Spartan) and just shooting it. Then figure out what upgrades you want to do later? I know that's not what you want to hear but it might be in your best interest as a college student (I was just in that same boat last year) and beginning uspsa shooter.

Also, in your max budget of $x, you'll need a belt, holster mag pouches and at minimum 8 magazines? Costs can add up quick, your looking at $700-900+ with the mods not including the gun. And upwards of $1500-2000 including the gun. A magwell is great, f/o sights are great, but practicing is going to be much more beneficial to you. The gun already has sights, grips, mag release, an opening for the magazine. No need to upgrade now, that can wait. It's got the barr essentials already.

Just my $0.02, take it as you wish.

Ohh.... Where are you going to store the gun? Being in college you can't have a gun on campus.

Hope all this helps!

--J

I currently rent a house off campus so I am able to have guns there. I even have a big ole safe and all that. So it seems it would have been best to get a cheaper 1911 so I can get all the accessories. I didn't expect to immediately compete with it factory new. I would like a gun that has some benefits already there, but I honestly would need to practice more to get the self confidence behind the gun necessary to compete as right now I have maybe 5 mags through a 1911 in my lifetime. I have a range officer on order through the local gun store now. I just couldn't deny the quality. Now I need mags, belts, holsters, etc. It will probably take me a few months to slowly build the kit I need. All the while I will be shooting it as much as possible.

Excellent choice! There are ways to save money on that other gear. I've found the Blade Tech Revolution holster works well with a single stack- I think I paid 24 for mine. I made my own single stack pouches in college for $10 worth of kydex. Down the road you can add a boss hanger from the Ben Stoeger pro shop to your holster and go for whatever mag pouches you want but you can get into it cheap. The initial quality of the gun, and the warranty from Springfield, are hard to beat.

Down the road you can likely find someone to lend you a hand with a trigger job or other little mods you might want to make but starting with a solid foundation is a wise choice.