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Pimp My Stock III


praetorian97
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Firing Pin Information


Henning Gen III

5.55 gram - 85.6495889 grains

11136199_10205375537564512_5527169313575


Henning Gen II

4.09 grams - 63.1183457 grains

11083961_10205375537524511_4370757077805


Limited 40

6.50 grams - 100.310329 grains

905776_10205375537484510_163080762495016


Xtreme

6.56 grams - 101.236271 grains

11128458_10205375537444509_3259007658320


Stock III

6.45 grams - 99.5387114 grains

11157557_10205375537604513_1538962344528


Henning Gen IV

4.74 grams - 73.1493786 grains

1941406_10205375538564537_69611972214849
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7.5lb DA and 2.5lb SA on a cheap wheeler scale. Once she's broken on Ill get some measurements on a Lyman Digital. Remember though smoothness of a trigger pull is just as important as weight if not more.

You can have a 3.5lb smooth pull feel better than a 2lb.

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Here is some more info to help others pimp their Tanfos:

This thread has lots of info and good links for fitting a CGW T3 Disco http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=69403.0

This website is from an Italian club with recommendation to help with reliability. http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=2&nv=1&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http://nuke.sardiniashootingclub.it/TanfoglioSTOCKIISmontaggioeLucidatura/tabid/191/Default.aspx&usg=ALkJrhhSvVNX0n-kmKaiJ2pltec0oJ2a6A

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7.5lb DA and 2.5lb SA on a cheap wheeler scale. Once she's broken on Ill get some measurements on a Lyman Digital. Remember though smoothness of a trigger pull is just as important as weight if not more.

You can have a 3.5lb smooth pull feel better than a 2lb.

Have you by any chance tested the Gen 4 FP? Any comparison with pencil test?

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I'm running it live fire this Friday for about 200 rounds and a match on Sat for about 300 rounds. No FPB though. I have an extended coming that I'll fit next week.

Are you saying the new fluted firing pin did not fit with your factory firing pin block??? I have the pin on the way but did not order the oversize block....

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I have the extended FPB coming because of the sear. When you change from the two piece sear to the one piece, the majority of the time it won't life the FPB high enough to do its jobs. To stay Production legal I need to have it in. For now I'm just shooting it Limited Minor to break it in. It's nice loading those 9mm mags with henning base pads. It's like my mags have worms and won't ever get full.

Edited by praetorian97
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Has anyone had a fail to extract issue. I fired 100 rounds without a problem. Cleaned the gun and on a second occasion fired another 100 rounds, no problems. I then did the a fore mentioned polishing job, replaced the plunger spring with Hennings #18 and replaced the recoil spring to 8lb with the accompanying firing pin spring. I then brought it to the range and had two fail to extract malfunctions during the next 50 rounds. Any advice?

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I have the extended FPB coming because of the sear. When you change from the two piece sear to the one piece, the majority of the time it won't life the FPB high enough to do its jobs. To stay Production legal I need to have it in. For now I'm just shooting it Limited Minor to break it in. It's nice loading those 9mm mags with henning base pads. It's like my mags have worms and won't ever get full.

Well damn, got all the parts I have so far fitted, polished, and installed last night... firing pin block doesn't engage, guess i need the oversized block :angry2: Anyone got a spare?

I will say though, that after not shooting an SA/DA for about two years the stock III in factory form is not the most impressive, but dang! Just after doing all the polishing coil clipping spring changing and putting in the Titan hammer with Eric's trigger, it feels phenomenal. I'm getting a 6.75# DA and 3.0# SA with factory trigger and sear spring and the reset is super short! I want to get the lighter ones from EGW :goof:

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So far my preliminary testing shows that the Xtreme "Light" Springs with the Delta Hammer is not the best combo for regular primers. I eliminated the primer seating depth issue by hand priming about 400 rounds this weekend. First three stages of the match I had 5 light primer strikes. I took to the safety area and swapped from the 13.8lb EG hammer spring to the Wolff 13lb and 6 stages later...Not one light primer strike. I was shooting Limited Minor so I dont know how DA will react yet.

MY .02 if you want to run the EG Light Springs....Use the Titan Hammer. Will trigger gauge my DA pull with the new hammer spring and do some live fire testing later. Shot 18 stages this weekend and I'm fried.

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I have the extended FPB coming because of the sear. When you change from the two piece sear to the one piece, the majority of the time it won't life the FPB high enough to do its jobs. To stay Production legal I need to have it in. For now I'm just shooting it Limited Minor to break it in. It's nice loading those 9mm mags with henning base pads. It's like my mags have worms and won't ever get full.

Well damn, got all the parts I have so far fitted, polished, and installed last night... firing pin block doesn't engage, guess i need the oversized block :angry2: Anyone got a spare?

I will say though, that after not shooting an SA/DA for about two years the stock III in factory form is not the most impressive, but dang! Just after doing all the polishing coil clipping spring changing and putting in the Titan hammer with Eric's trigger, it feels phenomenal. I'm getting a 6.75# DA and 3.0# SA with factory trigger and sear spring and the reset is super short! I want to get the lighter ones from EGW :goof:

You looking for spare extended FPB???

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Well I put the Titan hammer in last night in the Stock III that I had done the trigger job on and had the delta hammer in. I had the one piece sear already fitted to the delta hammer and would need to refit for the Titan. I guess that little bit of difference in size or hammer hook position means it needs a little more taken off the sear leg than with the Delta hammer.

I was impressed with it. I'll definitely put it in my other Stock III. I may keep the Delta in the one it's in right now as the trigger is a smooth 6# DA and a 2# SA with an awesome reset. I think using the 2-wing interruptor is the way to go with these hammers. Once I fit the one piece sear in my backup Stock III and get some rounds thru it I'll be able to do a more thorough side by side comparison. Once I get another 2-wing interruptor then I'll have both my stock III's in the same setup except for the hammers and can see what difference the hammers make.

I haven't had any light strikes using my Stock III with Delta hammer and Henning gen4 FP and a coil cut off the light EG hammer spring and 2 off the EG light FP spring. This is definitely the lightest and smoothest trigger setup I've had so if it goes 1000 rounds without any light strikes then I will go with it;-)

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Well I put the Titan hammer in last night in the Stock III that I had done the trigger job on and had the delta hammer in. I had the one piece sear already fitted to the delta hammer and would need to refit for the Titan. I guess that little bit of difference in size or hammer hook position means it needs a little more taken off the sear leg than with the Delta hammer.

I was impressed with it. I'll definitely put it in my other Stock III. I may keep the Delta in the one it's in right now as the trigger is a smooth 6# DA and a 2# SA with an awesome reset. I think using the 2-wing interruptor is the way to go with these hammers. Once I fit the one piece sear in my backup Stock III and get some rounds thru it I'll be able to do a more thorough side by side comparison. Once I get another 2-wing interruptor then I'll have both my stock III's in the same setup except for the hammers and can see what difference the hammers make.

I haven't had any light strikes using my Stock III with Delta hammer and Henning gen4 FP and a coil cut off the light EG hammer spring and 2 off the EG light FP spring. This is definitely the lightest and smoothest trigger setup I've had so if it goes 1000 rounds without any light strikes then I will go with it;-)

Good deal, I'l glad its working for you.

Tge only time i have an issue is when my press gets inconsistent with primer seating depth. I'm about to upgrade presses and inhope thatsca thing of tre past.

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I only had light strike issues last year with my first Stock II but that was due to factors beyond my control. I had it worked on and they messed up and just leave it at that. Once I changed out some of the bad parts and fixed their mistakes I have had 100% ignition except once which was a high primer I didn't catch when case gauging ammo. The Delta Hammer, EG Light hammer and FP springs, and Henning XL Firing pin was the most reliable setup I had. No coils cut off.

The only reason I cut a coil off the hammer spring and 2 off the FP spring was because I had extras and just wanted to see if I could make it reliable. It did decrease the trigger pull weight and with the Titan Hammer being heavier and the gen4 henning pin being a tad longer and lighter, I am hoping it will counterbalance the lighter springs. So far around 150 rounds using this setup except with the Delta hammer instead of the Titan and so far all ignited. I won't say it's 100% reliable until I run at least 1000+ with no light strikes. I was shocked just how smooth the trigger turned out using the Delta, 2-wing interruptor, and cut coils EG Light springs. It does seem the hammer does have enough force to ignite in DA. But only time will tell. I will be happy with a 6#ish smooth DA and a 2# SA if it is reliable. I will post up more info once I get more rounds thru the guns. :sight:

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The Delta Hammer, EG Light hammer and FP springs, and Henning XL Firing pin was the most reliable setup I had. No coils cut off.

So I'm driving myself nuts now. I have nearly the same set up. Uncut Light EG Light hammer and FP springs, Henning G4 giring pin, Titan Hammer, one piece sear, and the one leg disconnector that comes with the new S3's. Everything all fitted and polished up. So I primed some cases and went out to my garage to test them at first i could try all I wanted, but with rem 1-1/2 or CCI SPP nothing would set them off. Then last night I pulled out the firing pin block, and it was able to set off 2 out of 3 of the Remingtons. The third seemed pretty well bashed after repeatedly striking it. I though maybe something was wrong with the primer, but I pulled out my SA STI and it set everything off that the Tanfo couldn't.

My question is, is this an accurate way of testing the system, or is there a difference between a primed case and an actual loaded round. Next, does it make sense that my firing pin block would be reducing the energy of the firing pin on the primer? And, lastly what do I do to improve reliability. I havnt had the chance to test yet but i have the factory hammer spring with 2 coils cut i may put back in to try, or i may try clipping a coil or two off the FP spring, does that make sense???

Hope I'm not thread jacking, but i think this trouble shooting would be beneficial to many using these parts. If I need to start a fresh thread, someone just tell me so.

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The Delta Hammer, EG Light hammer and FP springs, and Henning XL Firing pin was the most reliable setup I had. No coils cut off.

So I'm driving myself nuts now. I have nearly the same set up. Uncut Light EG Light hammer and FP springs, Henning G4 giring pin, Titan Hammer, one piece sear, and the one leg disconnector that comes with the new S3's. Everything all fitted and polished up. So I primed some cases and went out to my garage to test them at first i could try all I wanted, but with rem 1-1/2 or CCI SPP nothing would set them off. Then last night I pulled out the firing pin block, and it was able to set off 2 out of 3 of the Remingtons. The third seemed pretty well bashed after repeatedly striking it. I though maybe something was wrong with the primer, but I pulled out my SA STI and it set everything off that the Tanfo couldn't.

My question is, is this an accurate way of testing the system, or is there a difference between a primed case and an actual loaded round. Next, does it make sense that my firing pin block would be reducing the energy of the firing pin on the primer? And, lastly what do I do to improve reliability. I havnt had the chance to test yet but i have the factory hammer spring with 2 coils cut i may put back in to try, or i may try clipping a coil or two off the FP spring, does that make sense???

Hope I'm not thread jacking, but i think this trouble shooting would be beneficial to many using these parts. If I need to start a fresh thread, someone just tell me so.

So you had improved results by taking the FPB out than within? If so then you may need to get extended FPB or make sure it's fitted to the FP.

I only use Federals for my Production guns. They are the same price pretty much for me around here and they just seem to reload better as crazy as that sounds. I make sure I seat them as deep as possible.

Last year when I first started with Tanfos I had to try out damn near every combo of hammer spring, FP spring, coils cut, no coils cut, etc etc. Whether this makes sense or not but for me when I'm testing out springs, the tell tale sign for me and my guns is after I pull the trigger, if the hammer ends up flush on the retainer plate (meaning I can't push hammer forward or very little) then I am pretty sure it's good to go. If I can push hammer forward then either FP spring was too long. I would think running the setup you have would set off primers reliably. You could try the EG Medium and see if that works.

Sorry you're having the light strike bug. It SUCKS!!!

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