Common Cause of primer tube detonation?

[rfunshooter]

Any other advice, other than primer brand & feel of the stroke? I do use Federal primers, I have blown a few tubes. But I also know of folks who do the same without any issues. Thank you.

[mcracco]

Not 100% on topic but I recently had quite a surprise running once fired military 5.56 brass on my 1050. I wet tumble brass then process. I was humming along on the 1050 when I got an explosion on the decapping station. Come to find out there were some live primers mixed in. Looks like when they collect the brass if they find a loose live round they pull the head then toss the unfired brass in the bin. So much for certified inert. I look at it as free entertainment for an otherwise mundane operation.

[DougCarden]

Brass prep is the key. The reason the primer goes, for whatever reason in the 1050 is usually due to the primer not going into the case smoothly. This can be due to the station tab not being adjusted correctly, crimped brass, tight primer pocket brass, etc. The mechanical priming system with the 1050 doesn't care what the primer pocket size. It will attempt to push the primer into the pocket. That is why when running that machine with 9mm you need to use the swage system and keep it on the machine unless you are buying processed brass that has had the primer pocket reamed. It is more important when you automate the machine.

In the 650 if you don't keep the primer disc clean and run too fast you can set one off. If you don't clean your machine and priming system then the flash will go across and set the tube off, regardless of primer type.

In all instances it is operator error, even if you don't mean to....

DougC

[RDA]

Not 100% on topic but I recently had quite a surprise running once fired military 5.56 brass on my 1050. I wet tumble brass then process. I was humming along on the 1050 when I got an explosion on the decapping station. Come to find out there were some live primers mixed in. Looks like when they collect the brass if they find a loose live round they pull the head then toss the unfired brass in the bin. So much for certified inert. I look at it as free entertainment for an otherwise mundane operation.

You wet tumble before you process (deprime)? And the primer was still live after wet tumbling?

[Willz]

Any other advice, other than primer brand & feel of the stroke? I do use Federal primers, I have blown a few tubes. But I also know of folks who do the same without any issues. Thank you.

I have used Federal, Wolf and mostly CCI primers.

I'll probably jinx myself but I've never detonated a primer while reloading.

I use a Rock Chucker and a Dillon 550.

I've had a few primers stand on their side and crushed them into the primer pocket on rifle and pistol brass.

I don't really see how they did not go off.

I use a steady pressure when seating primers. I heard and felt these crunch but again no detonation.

Always wear your eye pro guys just in case.

Edited March 10, 2015 by Willz

[Henny]

It is a good idea to occasionally run a patch with alcohol thru your primer tubes to clean out residual primer compound which can accumulate over time.

If the patch comes out yellow, that's primer compound.

I've had some of my primer tubes since the mid 80s. I've always been very good at yearly maintenance on my machines. However, I never cleaned the primer tubes.

2014 was the first time I cleaned them (using alcohol on a patch). Needless to say, I was shocked at how much residue was in them! Cleaning all the primer tubes has now been added to my yearly maintenance on my machines.

[Shadowrider]

A q-tip works perfectly for cleaning the tube. I't like a bore snake. Drench one end with alcohol and send it through using the plastic rod to push it. The dry end mops up the excess, it works like a charm.

ETA: It is pretty surprising how much the compound builds up. I do it every couple thousand rounds but then I'm pretty OCD about my reloading.

Edited March 12, 2015 by Shadowrider

[mcracco]

Not 100% on topic but I recently had quite a surprise running once fired military 5.56 brass on my 1050. I wet tumble brass then process. I was humming along on the 1050 when I got an explosion on the decapping station. Come to find out there were some live primers mixed in. Looks like when they collect the brass if they find a loose live round they pull the head then toss the unfired brass in the bin. So much for certified inert. I look at it as free entertainment for an otherwise mundane operation.

You wet tumble before you process (deprime)? And the primer was still live after wet tumbling?

Sure do. I found that dry tumbling was creating too much of a mess with the dust and I really didn't want to be handling the contaminated media. Wet tumbling might might be more work but it is a cleaner operation, brass processes better, and interiors are cleaner as they get processed twice.

But it is an example of what a primer can live through.

[RonofVa]

I can guarantee you that there are a bunch of guys here afraid to chime in and say “I have never had a primer detonation”, for fear of jinxing themselves. You can count me in.

You guys know it's true.

[awfaxis]

I'm new to reloading, having gotten my 650 operational 6 weeks ago. Cranked out 500 rds of .40 using Federal Blue "squishy" primers, and then scored 20k of Winchester SP at a gun show. Loaded about 2000 rds since.

Should I assume it's like being DQ'd? Not a matter of IF, but WHEN? The person who set up my setup added a .45 cal brass at the top of the plastic rod, saying it will keep it from penetrating my office ceiling.

[RDA]

Not 100% on topic but I recently had quite a surprise running once fired military 5.56 brass on my 1050. I wet tumble brass then process. I was humming along on the 1050 when I got an explosion on the decapping station. Come to find out there were some live primers mixed in. Looks like when they collect the brass if they find a loose live round they pull the head then toss the unfired brass in the bin. So much for certified inert. I look at it as free entertainment for an otherwise mundane operation.

You wet tumble before you process (deprime)? And the primer was still live after wet tumbling?

Sure do. I found that dry tumbling was creating too much of a mess with the dust and I really didn't want to be handling the contaminated media. Wet tumbling might might be more work but it is a cleaner operation, brass processes better, and interiors are cleaner as they get processed twice.

But it is an example of what a primer can live through.

Thanks for that data point, I thought that was what you were saying but wanted to confirm. I have heard of primers still firing after being soaked in water and/or some oils as well (not that I would recommend that). I certainly don't worry about any potential primer contamination from lubing my brass as some speculate.

Edited March 12, 2015 by RDA

[echotango]

I stopped using CCI spp as they were too hard to go in sometimes. Not wanting anything det issues, I now only use Winchester and they go in much easier.

[anm2_man]

It all depends. Its a feel thing. If it feels like it won't go, don't push it. As Sarge stated, getting aggressive and trying to load to fast, usually is the cause. I've been reloading for 27 years (17 on a 550b & almost 10 on a 650) and never have had a primer detonation ! But I always cross my fingers when I', reloading.

Edited March 12, 2015 by anm2_man

[dillon]

Lately the most common cause of a primer detonation is due to failure to sort 45ACP cases by primer pocket size. There is a lot more small-primed 45ACP made now, and sold In the big box bulk packages.

[Shadowrider]

Lately the most common cause of a primer detonation is due to failure to sort 45ACP cases by primer pocket size. There is a lot more small-primed 45ACP made now, and sold In the big box bulk packages.

I'd like to have a chat with whomever thought this one up.

[Prebaned]

Lately the most common cause of a primer detonation is due to failure to sort 45ACP cases by primer pocket size. There is a lot more small-primed 45ACP made now, and sold In the big box bulk packages.

I'd like to have a chat with whomever thought this one up.

I used to hate this thought also, very much actually.

Someone enlightened me to rethink the idea of SPP .45acp since it was actually developed originally as a SPP self contained metallic cartridge.

Most people will give away SPP 45acp and some will double your brass trade for the SPP .45acp.

Sounds good but this is what is making me rethink my hatred for the SPP .45acp.

I load .45acp, .40S&W, 9MM Luger and .223/5.56MM

How nice and cost/storage effective it would be to have one size/type pistol primer?

Only having to hunt SPP primers and no cross over to larger primer system on the press.

In a pinch I can use the small rifle primers on the pistol brass.

It could be good.

I may become one with it.

Sent painfully from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk

Live long and free or die

Edited March 23, 2015 by Prebaned

[BillD]

Yeah I embraced the SPP .45 suckage. It was a good move

[cwall64]

I have read a lot of folks discouraging the use of Federal primers. I about to order a 650, but I am also sitting on about 6,000 Federal 150 match primers! So, question is should get rid of the Ferderals before my 650 comes in? Or, just keep all the mechanisms as clean as possible...

[BeerBaron]

I wouldn't worry. I pretty much exclusively run fed srp and spp in my 650. Just keep on top of cleaning/maintenance which you should regardless of primer brand.

[soundlzrd]

I know this is an old thread, but I know many of the contributors are still active. Thank you for putting my mind at ease while looking at w 650 and talking about cleaning my primer tubes. I had not read that. Only loaded on a 550 so far, and no issues, but next chance I get to speed time loading, I'm actually going to be cleaning!

[Loudgp]

I've yet to set a tube off... and now I'll check to clean them out though... just curious... ive loaded probably 18-20k on my .40 and maybe close to 15k on the 9mm one... Not much on my .45 setup as I don't shoot SS much anymore... but all three have been fine.. other then the case pusher hanging up at times not pushing a case in fully...

[MikeyScuba]

I set one off last week.  Using Fiocchi non-toxic primers and was double squeezing the primer to get them seated deeper as they are my ICORE revolver loads.  No daisy chain just a quick bag then a hunt for my safety glasses I wasn't wearing.

 

I'm thinking a quick shot of brake clean down the primer tubes between loads will help keep the dust away.

[MikieM]

I popped one in my 1050. I didn't investigate as to why, or how, but it brought things to a screeching halt for a minute or two,

 

Keeping everything clean and well adjusted is probably the best advice, as many have said, but remember that primers are explosive. That means they are heat and shock sensitive. If it doesn't fit, don't force it.

Also, be sure and keep primers and powder stored separately.