Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Henny

Classified
  • Posts

    193
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Shooting steel and reloading.

Recent Profile Visitors

460 profile views

Henny's Achievements

Looks for Range

Looks for Range (1/11)

  1. Yes, that’s simpler, alright! Sometimes I overthink things. Although my modification works pretty good!
  2. I copy and pasted this from a post I made on another forum. I’m not sure why it’s highlighted in green. Sorry about that! WARNING: Anything I’m posting below is dangerous. It’s only for informational purposes. Doing anything replicating this could put life, limb, and your equipment in danger.I’ve been a happy S1050 owner for years. I really love loading on the machine. That being said....In my opinion, it has one problem that, when it rears it’s ugly head, it eventually turns into a mess. That problem is the priming system. Countless times I hear that sound of a primer hitting the bench, or look in my finished cartridge bin and see powder in it or I see a nice trail of powder going from the powder drop station to the final station. It’s very frustrating. Usually the fix is to take the priming system off, brush or vacuum all the powder off the shell plate / base, and wipe everything down with a patch and q tip with alcohol and reassemble. It seems like it never fails that the primer tube is either full, or nearly full. All 1050 owners know happens when you remove the priming assembly with primers in the tube. Primers everywhere! They go in every crevasse of the machine, on the bench and on the floor. There’s no way to empty or stop the primer system that is practical. I came up with a simple fix for my machine. I bought a few of these from Fastenal ( they’re local for me).They are 8-32x5/16 nylon tipped screws. I then drilled and tapped this hole in my primer system. I drilled the next size larger hole in the primer feed tube.Now when I have a priming problem I barely hand tighten the nylon tipped screw, remove the priming system and do the cleaning routine. When I take the system off, it only drops 7 primers. That’s a lot better than 70! If I’d do it over again, I’d drill the hole lower on that surface. Maybe I could have got it down to 5 or 6 primers. Use for your own information fellow 1050 owners! Links where to get the screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/nylon-tip-set-screws https://www.fastenal.com/product/fasteners/set-screws/socket-set-screws/600049?categoryId=600049&level=3&query=Nylon%2Btip&productFamilyId=25816I have no affiliation with either McMaster Carr or Fastenal. I just went with a Fastenal because a distributor is just up the road from me. You’re on your own for a tap and drill bit. I figure as handloaders you probably have basic tools.
  3. The thing I like about the Dillon powder check system is it lets me know if there's some type of debris in the case, I.E. tumbling media, spider web, 22 long rifle case, etc. As Cotys relates, you can tell a lot by watching the "V" too!
  4. I have had very good results with XBR and H322 and 77 SMKs. With both powders the best results were near or at maximum charges.
  5. I've. had this problem too. Usually when I'm using Wolf primers. Perhaps it's the quality of the primers? Usually when this happens I can push the primers down using the rod, and they start to feed again, which leads me to a quality issue with the primer. As GringoBandito said above, make sure you clean your primer tubes! The first time I did that I was amazed at the yellow residue that was in the tube! I'm hesitant to put any weight on the top of the priming rod. Remember, if you do have a primer detonation the additional weight on the primer rod might not be a good thing!
  6. Reinforce your bench. It's allowing too much viberation.
  7. You might want to remove the primer slide assembly and clean it out. From sitting that long, who knows what could be gumming things up? Whenever I have priming problems with the priming system, it's usually some spilled powder or tumbling media that affects the slide's travel. Also, make sure you have the primer slide in the correct way, with the roll pin to the right ( or outside ) of the machine. Dont not be too quick to give up on your 1050, they are great machines!
  8. I had / have the same problem. On occasion, I'll hit the M die's mandrel with some motor mica. It helps for a while.
  9. One thing to keep in mind, this time of year in cold climates, houses tend to have lower humidity due to using a heating source. The solution might be something as simple as wiping your powder measure down with a used dryer sheet to cut down on static. I've also had had the same problem as sschultz with a poor fit between the powder die and powder funnel.
  10. I think they make a blue pill for that Sarge!
  11. I tried the bearing. It wasn't for me. It was only a few years ago that I found out about adjusting the cam pin. It's kind of embarrassing, since I've been loading on a 650 since the early 90s! My first 650 doesn't have a hole in the crank for grease, let alone zerks! To grease the link arm pins, I have to remove them! i know I'm never too old to learn!
  12. When adjusting the cam pin I move the pin then slowly have the machine insert a case into the shell plate. If the case is fully inserted prior to the shell plate coming to a stop, you can see how this accelerates the shell plate, then suddenly makes it stop. Continue to adjust the pin until the full insertation of the case coincides with the exact moment the shell plate stops it's rotation When you sit there and mess with it, you'll see what I mean. Adjust it to extremes it becomes evident how important this often overlooked adjustment is
  13. I agree! This is probably one of the most overlooked adjustments on the press and is a main cause of people's powder slinging complaints!
  14. Try adjusting your cam pin (13371). You'll notice if it isn't adjusted quite right, when a case is inserted too soon, it will accelerate the shell plate causing an acceleration and a abrupt stop spilling powder. If if this is adjusted correctly there is no need to buy bearings.
  15. I've used the standard one for thousands upon thousands of rounds. It will work fine.
×
×
  • Create New...