Smitty79 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I've been shooting a CZ85 that had a trigger job at Automatic Accuracy a little over a year ago.I've recently completed what I would consider "annual" maintenance. I changed out several springs, put in a new CGW extended firing pin and installed upgraded trigger and firing pin retaining pins.The last thing I did, was put in a 13# hammer spring. It dropped the DA pull from 9# to 7.5#. When I took it to the range, I had 2 fail to fires in 100 rounds. I have far too many CCI primers to toss them all and buy a mountain of Federal.I read on a post, that I can't find now, that polishing the firing pin channel might get me reliable performance with this lighter spring. Is it worth the time? I was planning to use the guide that Kneelingatlas has posted on tuning CZs. It covers this polish.Is there something else I should try? I really like the lighter DA pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Polish, polish, polish. There's no reason a 13# hammer spring shouldn't be 100% on CCI. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty79 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Anything else I should be shining up for this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eerw Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 should run. I have CZC ext firing pin, 2075 FP spring and have run lighter mainsprings and have 100% against CCI, WIN and softer. even ran some small rifle primers with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 When I had light strikes it was because of two issues. One was the stupid tanfo firing pin block (I realize I'm in the CZ forum) and the other was gunk in my reloading press that didn't allow me to fully seat the primers every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Did you use the new firing pin spring that came with the cgw pin? If not put it in. It'll help. Also how deep are you seating primer? If they go off on a second hit it may be a reloading issue not a gun issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty79 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 I am using a 550. Primers seem to be at least flush. I did use the firing pin spring that came in the CGW kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 My first attempt at reloading involved CCI primers and an SP01 Shadow that had always run 100% with a 13# mainspring. I had a failure to fire in every magazine, and sometimes two or three. Fortunately it was 100% attributable to improper seating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewtac Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I would take a look at primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty79 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 How do you tell if primers aren't seated correctly? I don't think this is adjustable on a 550. If they aren't seating properly, how would I fix it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
accu9 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) I agree, sounds like a primer depth issue. Do you have a single stage press in conjunction with your 550? If so, try manually seating primers on that (do 100 or so) and then continue with your normal reloading sequence on the 550. Document your results and compare your light strike failure rate with primers seated in the 550. Edited January 6, 2015 by accu9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee G Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 CGW firing pin springs are very tight. Make sure you pushed it all the way on the firing pin. You can't put the spring in the firing pin channel and then drop the firing pin on top of it like you do with the stock springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 How do you tell if primers aren't seated correctly? I don't think this is adjustable on a 550. If they aren't seating properly, how would I fix it? It is adjustable in the 550. I haven't loaded on a 550 for a while, so maybe someone else will chime in, but I know I've done it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waktasz Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Really? I didn't think it was and that was a big advantage of the 1050 over the 550 and 650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewtac Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Not a dillion user, I thought the 1050 was the only one that was adjustable for primer depth. Put rounds in a case gauge, if some primers look higher than others see if they give you issues. I can adjust depth on my press and still get occasional high primers. For matches I case gauge my ammo and look at the primers. I usually reject a few every 100. I put them in the practice ammo can. Sometimes I get light strikes with them (CZ and Glock, both have reduce power springs). I have yet to have a light strike at a match, but probably one or two every practice session. I was cleaning primer pockets, I think it reduced the high primers but not worth the time required, as I case gauge regardless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Do I have to do everything for you guys?!? http://dillonhelp.com/Dillon%20Manual%20PDFs/dillon_rl_550b_manual_may_2007.pdfPage five, part number 13996 is the set screw used to adjust primer depth on the 550 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motosapiens Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Polish, polish, polish. There's no reason a 13# hammer spring shouldn't be 100% on CCI. I must be polish (at least you didn't call us polaks), because my 13# hammer spring was not 100% on cci primers. So I put in a 15# spring and stopped worrying about it. I also dry-fired for a few minutes a day so that the heavier spring would have no measurable effect on my scores. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 I must just be luck then... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 That set screw is there to maintain depth. It goes in a groove on the pin. There might be some slight movement in the groove but it would certainly move after a few strokes. I have read about spacers on the anvil etc but I feel the true bottom line is, the depth is not truly adjustable. As far as primers go, I know CCI primers are considerably taller than other brands. Don't know if that means things have to move farther for reliable ignition within the primer. If you put 100 federals in a dillon filler tube and eye where they come to inside, then do the same with CCI they will almost be too tall for the tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeerBaron Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 this is the main reason I still load on a lee loadmaster. yes it falls over every once in a while and needs some love, but it has primer depth adjustment (works very nicely too) and means I can set it up to basically crush the shit out of them, then back it off a little. there's still a little variance as you'd expect between cases but light strikes are now a non issue in my CZ's and tanfogs. the 650 is a way better press in so many ways but 2 things i don't like are seating primers on the up stroke (loadmaster like a 1050 seats them on the down stroke) and I don't like non adjustable primer seat depth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrewtac Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I like the LM for the reasons above as well. I put a slight crush on the primers. I still get some high occasionally, likely do to poor technique on my part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bthoefer Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Polish, polish, polish. There's no reason a 13# hammer spring shouldn't be 100% on CCI. This. My SP-01 that I did following atlas's guide runs CCI 100% with an 11 lb hammer spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZinZA Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 My wife's shadow with a 13 pound hammer spring sets off all primers without fail (but using the lower power Rami firing pin spring) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smitty79 Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 I want to ask this question again. How do I know if my primers are seated to the correct depth? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I want to ask this question again. How do I know if my primers are seated to the correct depth? The cup should be bottomed out in the pocket, which generally leaves them less than flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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