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Overcoming Light Strikes


Smitty79

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yeah they should pretty much all be below flush. I know my primers are seating as far as they can go when the primer insertion pin leaves a light tool mark on the face of the primer (well it does on soft federals, on harder primers usually not visible).

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got some 2000 grit emery cloth and polished the firing pin channel. Today I had 1 FTF, that fired the second try in 400 rounds fired (Good practice day!). I figure it can only get better with cycling. I may have to polish some more and get to the hammer strut too. Then maybe I can use an 11.5# spring.

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if it fired the second go (and I'm assuming you just pulled the trigger again so that the second try was DA, and assuming you were part way through a mag so first shot was SA) that tends to point to it not being seated deep enough.

a DA strike has a little less power than the SA strike (as the DA hammer falls at a point before the SA hammer hooks). so it sounds like perhaps the first SA strike seated the primer deeper, second strike set it off.

if you get another fail to fire. eject the round and have a look at the primer. see what kind of mark is on it and compare that mark to other fired cases. then put it back in the gun, and shoot it DA and see if it fires.

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  • 1 month later...

I was having ignition probs on my Sphinx SDP Compact after CGW springs on WWB 115 GR. until I read the post by WAKTASC concerning polishing the firing pin and the effect the FPB could have. I polished the FP really good paying special attention (more than polish) to the areas engaged by the FPB. As a result I fired 300 WWB and 50 Win Train & Defend 147 gr. during one session without a problem.

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I have 100% with CCI primers and a 11.5lb main spring. I would first look into the seating depth pretty hard but it doesn't hurt anything to polish everything up.

I haven't got to the point yet where the 7.5 Dan Wesson spring in my shadow is 100% reliable with feds but it might be doable.

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