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Aftac Assistance


Fuzz

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I started shooting single stack this year and about a third of the way through our schedule I had extractor issues. After attempted self tunings I end up taking it to a local 1911 guru gunsmith and having him do it. It ran perfect for one match. This weekend the second match came and on the first stage FTE and the second stage a spent casing actually flipped out and went backwards into the chamber. Needless to say the extractor was bent again. Asking around and talking to folks a lot of them are saying to just put a AFTAC extractor in it. I have never messed with these or know nothing about them. Help please, what do you folks think.

And does the AFTAC still need tuning ????

Or should I just put a Wilson or Brown in it for half the cost?

Thanks

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I've installed them in four guns. The only "tuning" I've done is a suggestion found in the installation instructions about compressing the springs before installation.

I've never had an extractor issue with any of the guns I've used them in.

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Aftec generally will require little to no tuning. There are exceptions but most essentially drop in.

I'm using them exclusively now even after learning how to tune a conventional extractor. I prefer the design although reassembly is slightly more difficult until you get the hang of it. The way I look at it, between entry fee, gas, and components the Aftec costs me about the same as shooting one local match (with majors being much more!). If it increases the probability of a trouble free match it is worth the small premium over a WC or similar. Opinions vary but I like them quite a bit.

That said, if its a 45, it is very easy to get those running with a conventional extractor. I've used the Brown and Wilson with acceptable results.

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I use them on most 9s and 40s. Depending on your combination of parts, you may need to trim the forward end of the hook for clearance. It should not contact the bevel or recessed part of the case. You can check this easily by removing the slide, inserting a round up against the breach face and holding it up to a light. There should be space all around the hook end. The only place there should be contact is on the flat part of the extractor where it puts pressure on the case rim. Other than that, I usually compress the springs (especially the front one) and I also radius and polish the surface where the case rim rides up. That's not really necessary, but it tends to make loading a bit smooter.

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I would bring it back to the 1911 smith and see if he can figure out why your pistol can't keep an extractor in tune before throwing anymore money at it. Is it the same extractor in there that you tried to tune and the smith tuned? If so i would change it for sure as there might be a problem with it but if it's a different one then something must be going on.

I got my Trojan and it ran fine for about 200 rounds so figured I would run it in a match. At my first match on the second stage the extractor claw broke off. I wasn't happy but STI sent me out another one, which is my spare now, but between getting that one I bought an EGW HD extractor because I wanted to shoot and not wait. Took about 5-10 minutes to install and self tune per some youtube instructions as it was the first time I did it and it's run great in about 4 matches since. So if you got a bad extractor and wanted to stay with a more conventional extractor the EGW HD works good.

https://www.speedshooter.com/product_detail.cfm?id=EGW46HD-Extractor&n=EGW-Series-70-HD-Extractor

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I would bring it back to the 1911 smith and see if he can figure out why your pistol can't keep an extractor in tune before throwing anymore money at it. Is it the same extractor in there that you tried to tune and the smith tuned? If so i would change it for sure as there might be a problem with it but if it's a different one then something must be going on.

I got my Trojan and it ran fine for about 200 rounds so figured I would run it in a match. At my first match on the second stage the extractor claw broke off. I wasn't happy but STI sent me out another one, which is my spare now, but between getting that one I bought an EGW HD extractor because I wanted to shoot and not wait. Took about 5-10 minutes to install and self tune per some youtube instructions as it was the first time I did it and it's run great in about 4 matches since. So if you got a bad extractor and wanted to stay with a more conventional extractor the EGW HD works good.

https://www.speedshooter.com/product_detail.cfm?id=EGW46HD-Extractor&n=EGW-Series-70-HD-Extractor

Yes it is the same extractor that came in the gun new (Ruger SR1911)

It seems to me everybody I have spoken with likes the Aftac extractor. I appreciate all the advice and I realize a name brand or quality extractor would probably do fine. I do kinda like the Idea of CRY ONCE. So I will be ordering the Aftac for it and get it over with.

Thanks again everyone for your opinions. It is much appreciated.

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Not too many variables on that. Basically it comes down to poor quality materials and manufacturing. If you want a conventional extractor, there are plenty of choices for good quality and reasonable price: EGW, Wilson, etc. I would not include STI in that list. If you want a one-time permanent fix, then get an AFTEC.

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Usually the hook breaking off is caused by hitting the barrel

Who said anything about the hook being broke? It just said bent.

Also just realized I was spelling it wrong. AFTEC not AFTAC. ooops.

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It's AFF-Flaaackkkk! LOL

I had one put in my first custom 2011. Runs great, havent had any issues. Disassembly/reassembly for cleaning is a little more involved, just be careful not to loose any of the parts when you take it out.

But then again I also have several 1911/2011's with conventional extractors that I have t had any Jesus with either...

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It's AFF-Flaaackkkk! LOL

I had one put in my first custom 2011. Runs great, havent had any issues. Disassembly/reassembly for cleaning is a little more involved, just be careful not to loose any of the parts when you take it out.

But then again I also have several 1911/2011's with conventional extractors that I have t had any Jesus with either...

Was that a reference suggesting they have not required an exorcism to get them running correctly? I am assuming "issues" and auto correct, but I could be wrong.

I didn't fully appreciate the process of reinstalling the Aftec until I had internal lightening done on my last gun. The old stick it in clocked 180 degrees left and rotate works, but you have to rotate clockwise. Counter clockwise is no good once you've milled out pockets next to the disconnector tunnel., unless you like losing springs and doing it over.

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It's AFF-Flaaackkkk! LOL

I had one put in my first custom 2011. Runs great, havent had any issues. Disassembly/reassembly for cleaning is a little more involved, just be careful not to loose any of the parts when you take it out.

But then again I also have several 1911/2011's with conventional extractors that I have t had any Jesus with either...

Was that a reference suggesting they have not required an exorcism to get them running correctly? I am assuming "issues" and auto correct, but I could be wrong.

I didn't fully appreciate the process of reinstalling the Aftec until I had internal lightening done on my last gun. The old stick it in clocked 180 degrees left and rotate works, but you have to rotate clockwise. Counter clockwise is no good once you've milled out pockets next to the disconnector tunnel., unless you like losing springs and doing it over.

LOL...The 2011 I just bought is lightened the same way and came with an Aftec. Sproing!

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Make sure that the tip of the extractor isn't touching or hitting the leading edge of the barrel chamber when the slide is forward and the barrel is in the locked up position. If the tip of the extractor is allowed to hit anything that will dramatically reduce the effectiveness of of the extraction because the extractor hook will have an inconsistent engagement with the rim of the case.

You could also have a worn out or cracked firing pin stop that allows the whole extractor to shift forward and back as you shoot. If the extractor can shift forward and back you will also have the tip of the extractor hitting the leading edge of the chamber issue.

The easiest way to test for mechanical contact between the leading edge of the chamber and the tip of the extractor is to use a sharpy marker and black out the portion of the chamber that is in front of the tip of the extractor when the slide is closed. Then shoot several rounds and inspect the blacked out portion of the chamber to see if any of the marking has been rubbed off by the tip of the extractor. If the marking has been rubbed off you know that the tip of the extractor is hitting the chamber. As stated before, this could be due to a bad firing pin stop, or the leading edge of the barrel is simply too far back. Replace parts or adjust them as needed to eliminate these parts from contacting one another.

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I've installed them in four guns. The only "tuning" I've done is a suggestion found in the installation instructions about compressing the springs before installation.

I've never had an extractor issue with any of the guns I've used them in.

Same here.

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This is getting ducky. LOL

I will check and make sure it's not hitting but since I have gotten nothing but positive responses about the AFLACK (LOL) I will just be ordering one anyway. Thanks for the assist.

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