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Fine tuning an AR buffer


Dustbuster1

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Am running a JP setup already b, bc, and low mass buffer. Gun is working fine. Was curious if anyone is going beyond a red plug n play setup and are modifying oem rifle,carbine or aftermarket parts for lighter weight and performance???

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I took mine apart and removed the weights and replaced it with a piece of a aluminum tube. Got it down to the same weight as a factory LM buffer. I also polished the spring and buffer tube.

How did it work??? Beneficial or not worth the time?

Replies appreciated I guess I should have asked is it worth tampering with?

The JP parts worked really well and have helped reduce muzzle rise and recoil, significantly. I didn't want to do anything beyond the red JP LM buffer as the other unit just looks like if it fails you're done for the day or stage. Am open to suggestions or test results..

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My set up works as well as the JP parts for the price of a piece of aluminum. And like I said with the polishing I did my rifle is as smooth as a captured spring setbup. All I have into it is a little elbow grease.

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I took mine apart and removed the weights and replaced it with a piece of a aluminum tube. Got it down to the same weight as a factory LM buffer. I also polished the spring and buffer tube.

when you used an aluminum tube, was it the same length of the weights stacked up? or did it go from the bottom of the inside of the buffer to the where the plastic insert seats?? i pulled a carbine buffer apart last night and started working with it, trying to get some ideas, thanks ( like i dont have enough to do)

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Ran the ulw setup today it's a tad heavier than a carbine buffer w no weights in it. Needs more gas than the JP buffer to cycle. Will run it again on more steel and brass ammo and make a decision. It's also tossing brass and steel at 2 o'clock. Will report more later.

u9e2a5ys.jpg

5a8e9ydy.jpg

nesepega.jpg

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Edited by Dustbuster1
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I just took my rifle buffer apart and took out all of the weights but 1. Then I cut a delrin rod that I had laying around to fit inside the buffer to take up the rest of the space. Weighs just slightly less than the JP lo mass buffer now. Rifle runs like a champ. I am considering taking out the last weight and experimenting with it some more.

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APL-G35, i agree but bith of them go in the rifle, but just one reciprocates when firing, so weight should be half of what is shown in the photo above. Mine weights .6 oz.

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Both are used, really needed to crank the gas up but it didn't affect muzzle rise. There's one w a small thin round pad that goes in first,and one that goes in last, they both face each other resembling Chinese finger cuffs using the spring. It's pretty quiet, I polished up the spring before I assembled it. I'm happy w it so far but will keep the JP closeby as a backup.When I first saw the setup I thought it was one piece or it came 2 in a pack till I read the directions.

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Edited by Dustbuster1
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  • 2 weeks later...

Removed it today. W the gas cranked up was getting FTE's and jams. Put the JP back in retuned the gas problem solved. I guess I could work w buffer springs but all in all I sacrificed reliability and it cost me this past weekend... I'm going back to keeping shit simple..

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I made a mandrel with a piece of conduit and a long bolt .I compressed the spring on the mandrel and put it in a drill used 1000 grit emery clothe. For the tube I took a 12 ga brush and wrapped scotchbrite pad around it and chucked it in a drill.

Don't get the spring hot.

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APL-G35, i agree but bith of them go in the rifle, but just one reciprocates when firing, so weight should be half of what is shown in the photo above. Mine weights .6 oz.

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+1

Only the front half reciprocates with the bolt carrier. The rear portion remains static pinned by the buffer spring.

Pat

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If you look at JP's captured buffer system you will also see that you can get a set of springs. By swapping out the springs you can find your sweet spot.

Jay

Is the cost worth it?

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You all realise that the weights in a buffer are in there and loose for a reason right? They act as a means to keep the carrier from bouncing back. They act kind of like a dead blow hammer. So if you strip out the weights and start getting a random click Instead of bang it might be your carrier and bolt are bouncing out of battery.

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OK Kurt.....this will be a topic of great discussion this weekend. For reference (and in advance) look up the operating systems of the Garand, Winchester model 100, Remington 7400......and one that you are familiar with....the Benelli M1 Shotgun. Of course, no beer will be involved amigo!!

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Ran the ulw setup today it's a tad heavier than a carbine buffer w no weights in it. Needs more gas than the JP buffer to cycle. Will run it again on more steel and brass ammo and make a decision. It's also tossing brass and steel at 2 o'clock. Will report more later.

u9e2a5ys.jpg

5a8e9ydy.jpg

nesepega.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 of course it ate my spelling.

Actualy.....there is only one part of the ULW recoils system that moves. So, the reciprocating mass is less than the empty buffer.

Also.....this system does away with the 'tang' due to the fact that the spring is held in place at both ends.......it is much quieter....by a long shot.

Historically, it has been taking less gas than even an empty buffer......I'd check on that.

Edited by TRUBL
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My gut tells me work w springs when using this buffer,adjust gas accordingly, or stick w JP low mass buffer

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Edited by Dustbuster1
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Personally I find it hard to believe you had to have more gas with the Taccom setup vs. The JP. Just goes against physics. You may make sure there isn't something else happening there. I have had great luck using the Taccom system, as have many others.

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Not physics. It simply wasn't cycling properly.that's why I suspect a spring change is in order. Opening the gas almost 4 turns didn't help. BTE gas block. Not saying its bad or doesn't work, it's just not running well in this rifle right now. It's just weird that it wont work.what setup are u running that allows it to work as it should?!

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