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Everything posted by TitoR

  1. Bumping As I’m getting ready to setup my son’s belt for 3Gun, I’m much interested in feedback about this topic. I currently use TeK-Lock, which allows me to add remove, but requires to remove belt, which is a PITA. So I’m too considering TMMS vs ELS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. That what I did! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. My prairie dog perfect flow control was not so perfect and drifted midway through a 100 .223 bullet reload session. I already pulled the bullets with a brand new hornady cam-lock bullet puller. Now I have 100 primed cases. Is it ok to just reload them? Would neck tension be affected? Any other considerations? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I load 3.14 gr of SS behind 147 Blue Bullets @ 1.145” and get 890 from my XDm. btw, I get single digit SD. And max spread is less than 20fps At 3.3 grains I get 907fps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Check out MidSouth, they have free haz mat in Shooters World (19HAZS) and alliant (19HAZA) powders, $5 haz fee for federal primers (19HAZP) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I usually follow the die Manufacturer’s instructions, so I was not expecting the cases to be short. I read Dillon’s instructions that mention the use of the case gage, which got me concerned. I may not even use range brass going forward, but I had a bunch collected and wanted to process to see if it is something I want to get into. But depending on my shooting volume, may just buy fully processed and setup a loading only toolhead: decapping, powder/prime, Bullet seater and crimp die. Newbie mistake and lesson learned. Thanks for the feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Do I need to scrap my processed brass? I’ve been Reloading 9mm for 5 years, and yesterday started Reloading 223 in my XL650 for hoser ammo. Range brass, wet tumbled. I adjusted the Lee resizing/decapping die according to Lee instructions (1/2 turn after touching shell plate) an processed about 500 223 cases. When I checked with the LE Wilson case gauge, all case heads are below the lower step. So, a few questions: - scrap processed brass for excessive headspace? - what is the correct process of adjusting decapping die in the XL650? Thanks for your guidance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I installed the large bar and using H335, drops are very consistent. Now, I need to buy a second micrometer adjuster for the large bar to create the calibration curve for each powder. The addiction continuess. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I’m changing caliber from 9mm to 223. Range of powder to be dropped is from 18 to 23 grains of Tactical Rifle and H335. According to Dillon manual small bar is for 3-20 and large for 20-45 grains. So looks like my loads are in between the two bars. Which powder bar should work for my range and provide the most consistent drops? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. If I don’t shoot right over the sensors of the chrono I get similar erratic results. Also distance from the chrono play a role. Finally, if you have the competition electronics deluxe chrono with built in Bluetooth, it has a quirk when recording duplicate velocities. When you have the same velocity in 2 or more consecutive shots, if the string in the chrono is full, it does not record the subsequent velocities to your phone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. That’s what I used for several years. I agree, vibraprime does not like them, but otherwise they work perfect in my 650. Not a single malfunction in my PCC or XDm. Helps with your math too, 12 rows + 4 more! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I was doing the same search yesterday in the Dillon website. For 6.5 CM in the 650XL you need the Large Rifle Casefeed plate, refer to case feeder manual - https://www.dillonprecision.com/docs/Dillon_Casefeed_Manual_2018.pdf For dies, Dillon website only offer Redding two-die set stock #71005. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. My reloading area is in my workshop, which is also my workspace for doing all repairs at home, including car repairs. Whenever I’m going to reload I tidy up the bench and the work area around it, including removing the a vise that is next to my 650XL. After the reloading session, I clean the 650XL, pick up all spent primers that fell to the floor, dust around the machine and put the cover on. During reloading is about a 7, but between is a 2.5. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. This answers many of my questions regarding reloading equipment and supplies as I’m also moving. But in my case, for all my firearms is a bit more complicated. I live in Puerto Rico and moving to Texas. PR has one of the strictest gun laws in the US after CA. Firearms permit, target shooting permit, CCL and separate license to buy powder as it is considered an explosive. Renewal of all of these are in the thousands of dollars. Hence my firearms are registered, as well as my ammo and powder purchases. For the move I am planning to transfer FFL to FFL all my firearms to make sure they are taken off the PR registry. For ammo and powder, I am now trying to consume my inventory to avoid any hassles during the move. Selling ammo or powder is not allowed, only FFL can sell those in PR. I guess I’ll need to get used not having big brother overseeing all my shooting activities in TX. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Unfortunately I live in Puerto Rico, so no ammo shipments to U S. Hence, I need to bring my reloads in the plane. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Ok, let’s see how to handle the following situation. I am traveling to Ares 6 with my 11 year old son. I am shooting Limited and he is shooting PCC. PCC, pistol, belt, etc is traveling inside a non-TSA lock locked hard case. I am planning to bring one additional bag to be checked under my son’s ticket with our clothes and ammo. I reload, hence I want to bring 400-500 rounds each, which will require each of us to put our ammo in our respective bags. 500 rounds in the hard case and 500 in my son’s luggage. Since he is underage, would TSA/Airline allow me check his bag with ammo in it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. I load 135 for my son’s AR-9 with 5.25” barrel from Taccom at 3.05gr of TG 1.125” OAL for 132 PF Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. TitoR

    PCC loads

    I am shooting 135 gr truncated cone blue bullets over 2.7 gr of TiteGroup for 941 fps or 129 PF @1.120”. This is for a AR9 style rifle using a KVP 8.5” long barrel I built for my son. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  19. That's how the Caldwell chronograph app for iPhone saves the data Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I keep an inventory of 1000 rounds for myself and 500 for my son's PCC. 800 reserve and 200 for matches for me and 300/200 for my son. That's why I reload between 200 and 400, time available to reload between matches or if I need to load for my son too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 200 to 400 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. Cindy, I'm not sure I follow you on this one. Are you referring to the seating die or the powder adjustment bolt? The later does not move in or out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I do have low, medium and high strength loctite, so no issue there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. Ok, 2nd powder bar is $24, uniquetek micrmeter is $80 and Prairie Dog's is $37. So, looks like the Pairie dog may be the best option. As for COL, I made two dummy round templates that I just use to setup the machine. Thanks all for all the great feedback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. I currently have two 9mm loads, one for my competition pistol and one for my PCC. These use different Bullet weights (Both blue) and powder charge. So, the two main adjustments are powder charge and COL. Some have suggested setting up a second tool head with dies and powder drop/measure to expedite changeover. For me setting the powder charge is the most time consuming aspect of going from one load to another. So, I was wondering if it would be cheaper to just buy a second small powder bar and leave it set for the second powder charge. So, to switch from PCC to pistol and viceversa, I only change powder bar, adjust COL, verify charge weight and start cranking Bullets. BTW, I sort my brass so all other adjustments (crimp, bell, etc) remain constant. Does this make sense? Any reason not to do it this way? Thanks in advance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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