Paper targets for shooting groups?

[Ted Murphy]

What targets do you all like to use for group testing at 100-300 yards?

Ted

[bigkyle72]

shoot-n-see

[LoganbillJ]

I tend to lean toward something that has a diamond as the center. Allows exact alignment each and every shot. Depending magnification and reticle a circle has too much room error in alignment.

[Chills1994]

White card stock from the office supply aisle at Wally World.

Head over to the paint aisle there and grab some brightly colored, day-glow duct tape (which is exactly 1.88 wide)

I have made my own shoot-n-c's using aluminum foil spray adhesive'd down to a piece of cardboard. Then the foil side is painted flat black. Then the whole thing gets stapled up. Put a square of that duct tape or a Birchwood Casey orange dot in the middle of that.

[45shooter]

Using a black circle on a white paper backer. The circle should be slightly larger than your dot. Your eye naturally wants to center things in a circle and the black isnt effected by different light conditions like orange or red.

[Dan Sierpina]

accurateshooter.com has some free ones you can print. I've gotten so I like the targets with red rather than black. The holes show up much better.

[tacticalCOWBOY]

3x5 cards and staple them to the cardboard

[uncledoc]

shoot and see for me.....

[ben b.]

I'm always rushed for time on range trips, so I have settled on stapling up shoot n sees for my 3G AR rifles. They are just easier to zero or confirm zero and then move on to something else, especially with red dot sights at 100 & 200 yds. If I have the time and am actually testing ammunition for accuracy using a proper scope & benchrest gear (never happens anymore), I use the graph paper targets with 4-6 bullseyes or preferably a 25-bull rimfire benchrest target paper. This pretty well needs me to mount a 36x or higher scope for 100 yards.

[Rhodie]

I work at an engineering firm and have access to autocad to draw up my own targets. I have a Bushnell 1-6.5 with the center dot right at 1 MOA. I've drawn up targets for 100, 200 and 300 each with multiple 1", 2" and 3" squares for each distance. It makes zeroing much easier when I can center the dot in the square so you can barely see a sliver of white on all four sides of the dot.

Also, I have a 22 upper with a Prismatic w/ the circle dot reticle on it for practice. I drew up a target for zeroing at 25 yards that's several circles. Center the dot in the circle with a little sliver of white all the way around and it's a breeze to get a perfect zero.

PM me if you want any of the targets. I'll send you the pdfs of them.

[Steve RA]

I like this one. Use stick-on dot for rifle, leave off for pistol. Stick-on is 1.5", black center dot is 3". Lines are one inch apart.

[Steve RA]

Here is a used one:

[Cajuntransplant]

Easiest and cheapest is index cards with the high viz painters tape like chills mentioned for verifying zero. There's a bunch online you can print out for free as well. But I tend to use 3x5 and 5x7 index cards for most all my practice sessions with rifle and pistol. They're cheap and easy which works for me.

[alma]

Paper plate with a dot in the middle from a permanent marker?

[Chucky]

For precision work I shoot 1 inch black pasters on a piece of printer paper.

[Sarge]

Paper plate with a dot in the middle from a permanent marker?

That's exactly what I use for my pistols through the chrono uprights!

[ihocky2]

I like the Thompsons scope target for most rifle work. Though they don't work great with a Burris XTR reticle. An LGS has their own bullseye targets that work perfect with the rings on the XTR reticle.

[KelsonAK]

Shooting groups for testing, load development, etc - I use 1" circles or squares on graph paper (usually 1/4" squares) at 100. For 200 if it is a low powered scope I'll go to a 2" target, 300 3". For my F class stuff I'll use 1" targets for all 3 distances. I'll put 4 to 6 targets on an 8.5x11 and staple the mess to a backer. I have a PDF of the target that I print out - no messing with actual graph paper...

For circles, I have taken to putting the target circle in the 'corner' of the cross hairs rather than try to center on the circle - more and more doing that with squares as well. Using the graph squares makes it fairly easy to eyeball for OCW testing purposes, and doing your test firing at 100, 200 and 300 without doing the whole clickie clickie thing gives you great and easy feedback on the real ballistics of your load.

For shooting groups for practice purposes, I use F-class target centers - reduced appropriately for the range I'm shooting. Again - just print 'em out from a PDF. If I'm not shooting 'groups' I will just use some optic orange duct tape to make an aiming point.

[DocMedic]

I'm possibly the worst paper puncher in the world. I can take a .25MOA boltgun and make it group 3inches at 100yards. What I end up having to do is if I'm working on a good zero, I'll sled it get the groups nice and tight then take it to steel afterwards. I like the shoot&c zeroing targets, mostly so I can just use my bino's to see where I need to adjust without needing to walk all the way down range.

[Chills1994]

Avery labels....

Item number 5467 is the neon red in a 3/4" diameter circle

Item number 5476 is the neon orange in a 1.25" diameter circle.

Item number 5497 is the neon red in a 1.25" diameter circle

Placed on your paper or card stock of choice.

I just happened to be walking by my range bag meant for rifle and saw a packet of 5467's and 5476's sticking out of a pocket. I fugured Avery made an inch and a quarter circle in the red neon, sonjust looking on their website I found the 5497's .