Reloading for Moon Clips

[aazz]

Is there any advantage to roll crimp vs taper crimp for moon clip use?

Specifically a S&W Model 327 Trr8.

[PatJones]

I roll crimp. I could never get the bullets to stop pulling with a taper crimp.

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[alecmc]

I taper crimp, havent had issues.

[varminter22]

Same here. Taper crimp; never had an issue. Use same die set-up for both 1911 and M625.

[ede]

taper crimp no issues minor or major

[Tom E]

Case neck tension is important. Some combinations of brands of brass and sizing dies won't get the case neck ID small enough. If your ID isn't small enough, no amount of crimp will make up for it.

[Toolguy]

That is true. You can take your neck expanding die and make the part below the taper a thousandth or 2 smaller. Most size dies make the brass small enough, but some expanding dies make it too big again.

[Intel6]

Redding Profile Crimp - Regular roll crimp but also puts some taper crimp on it also. Makes for a real consistent crimp.

[pskys2]

About the only thing you gain with a Roll Crimp is reducing Bullet Pull Out. And without a groove to set it in it doesn't really help that much on pull out. The Taper, done more aggressively than for an auto, will be smoother and more forgiving of case length issue.

You have to be very careful with roll crimping without a cannelure or crimping groove. I've done it with plated bullets, and have had decent luck, but you run the risk of piercing the plating and if that happens it can leave strips of plating/lead in the barrel.

With coated bullets you run a risk of leading due to piercing the coating. With lead it usually works ok.

Just don't do it with Jacketed unless you have a cannelure.

If you do it with a Jacketed Bullet, or over do it with a lead or coated bullet, you will quickly reach a point that you have a bump in the case just below the crimp. Which eliminates any advantage you might have sought. If you take it further yet, or have a case with a thicker body you will ultimately crumple the case below the bullet. Neither will load well and may not load at all without resizing the whole loaded round. I've done that a few times and I used a 9mm sizing die sans deprimer to reshape the loaded round. After firing all is well again.

Short answer go with Taper Crimp in a .38 Short Colt.

[aazz]

Sounds good thanks guys!

[JohnRodriguez]

I use a taper crimp on my ICORE/USPSA minor loads. If I'm hunting with my 357 or +P loads, then I use a roll crimp. A revo is a kinetic bullet puller, so you might fire all but the last round and take it out and see how much it is pulling. this will let you know if you need to use more crimp, or replace your worn out brass.

[S&WIowegan]

I use taper crimp on my 38 Short Colt loads and I'm probably not aggressive enough. I do get bullet pull-out which I can see when I pick up moonclips that weren't all fired. However, I don't have a big problem with it...my ammo is too hot anyway.

Bob

[jcc7x7]

Taper Crimp

[Norther]

Taper crimp. I use the same loads for single stack also. No problems.

[Koppi]

I have a 627 in 38 super. With the .335 bullets I have taken a 9mm sizing die and run the case up a 3/8 of an inch or so to down size it. Then load as usual. You can do that with a .356 bullet also. This adds tension to the bullet without a heavy crimp. Just an idea---

[VIPERONE]

The Original Poster was talking about a light weight (35 OZ) S&W M&P 327 TRR8.

I believe the airweight 8 shooter has a history of bullets backing out of the cases some by the last shot in the cylinder.

I would use a fairly heavy roll crimp in a crimp groove.

Probably would not be nearly as big an issue with 38 Special 158's at 800 - 850, as with 357 magnums.

Bob

[sanjiro]

Taper crimp for mid colts loads in my 627.