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Open glock light strikes


hysupra

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Testing new open gun build, first day I shot 20 9mm major rounds without an issue. Made more of the same ammo and another box just a tad hotter. Maybe 25% actually fired, the others all light striked.

So is it the gun or the ammo? I checked a firing pin and it's fine. I'm wondering if I didn't seat the primer well enough. I changed the firing pin spring back to stock, so maybe it'll hit harder. The trigger pull is now a lot heavier because of the spring change. I'm using small rifle primers and they seemed to all be seated flush.

Remington brand new brass

6.5gr auto comp

Federal srp

Hornady 115gr fmj

Thanks guys

Rob

Edited by hysupra
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In my experience, the light strike issue may be with the small rifle primers, primarily because of the harder primer cup. An extended striker may help with the issue, but switching to small pistol primers may help as well.

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Nope it's still there. I think it's just this batch of ammo. The striker sounded weak when hitting the primer, but fine when the gun was unloaded. I'm thinking the primers weren't seated correctly and the striker couldn't get enough momentum to set it off.

But... All the primers seemed flush. Should they be buried a tiny bit? Would match primers help?

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Make sure your pistol is going to full battery. It can happen when using a light recoil spring and light striker spring.

With your pistol empty, pull the slide all the way back and release the slide. Don't pull the trigger. Now check to see how much tension the slide has when lightly pulling back your slide. If it feels like the slide can easily pull back and fall out of battery, then you will need either a heavier recoil spring or a lighter striker spring.

i had this dilemma when i built my Open XD.

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I have a 13# in it now. It's tight. I'm going to put the zev spring back in and see if it was the ammo this weekend.

This gun also recoils pretty hard with 6.5 of autocomp. I'm using a carver 10 port comp as well.

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10 port comp ?? I have just finished up my Glock 34 / Carver setup. just starting to work up a load. I keep stove piping but I still at 145 PF. with a 124 mg with Titegroup. I need to find some auto comp to try. Good luck and keep use up to date.

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What striker spring do you have in it? I have a Bobby Carver built G17 open gun that was set up for major. I went to a 11# recoil spring for lighter loads and I tried a 4# striker spring with a stock striker and had many light strikes with various brands of ammo including my reloads, nothing was consistent, would fire 10 in a row of the same stuff and then not fire one or two and the primer would have a dimple in it. I tried a 4.5# spring and it improved greatly, but still had some light strikes with some Winchester 9mm Nato rounds and some of my reloads. I went to a 5# spring and all is good, gun runs like a top. Fires everything I run through it. I just got a Zev skeletonized SS striker and put the 4.5# spring on it will try that next time at the practice range.

gerritm

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  • 3 weeks later...

What striker spring do you have in it? I have a Bobby Carver built G17 open gun that was set up for major. I went to a 11# recoil spring for lighter loads and I tried a 4# striker spring with a stock striker and had many light strikes with various brands of ammo including my reloads, nothing was consistent, would fire 10 in a row of the same stuff and then not fire one or two and the primer would have a dimple in it. I tried a 4.5# spring and it improved greatly, but still had some light strikes with some Winchester 9mm Nato rounds and some of my reloads. I went to a 5# spring and all is good, gun runs like a top. Fires everything I run through it. I just got a Zev skeletonized SS striker and put the 4.5# spring on it will try that next time at the practice range.

gerritm

I have had a similar situation as you as of late. Glock 17 with 3 ports on top ad 2 on the side, 11 lb recoil spring and 4 lb firing pin spring with zev 2lb connector, stock firing pin. There are times I get light strikes while sometimes it just runs really great.

I will now try a heavier firing pin spring (back to stock spring) and I am 99.9% that it would eliminate the light strikes however, I can already feel a heavier trigger.

Apart from purchasing the full zev trigger kit, is there any other remedy to achieve a light trigger but eliminate light strikes?

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What striker spring do you have in it? I have a Bobby Carver built G17 open gun that was set up for major. I went to a 11# recoil spring for lighter loads and I tried a 4# striker spring with a stock striker and had many light strikes with various brands of ammo including my reloads, nothing was consistent, would fire 10 in a row of the same stuff and then not fire one or two and the primer would have a dimple in it. I tried a 4.5# spring and it improved greatly, but still had some light strikes with some Winchester 9mm Nato rounds and some of my reloads. I went to a 5# spring and all is good, gun runs like a top. Fires everything I run through it. I just got a Zev skeletonized SS striker and put the 4.5# spring on it will try that next time at the practice range.

gerritm

I have had a similar situation as you as of late. Glock 17 with 3 ports on top ad 2 on the side, 11 lb recoil spring and 4 lb firing pin spring with zev 2lb connector, stock firing pin. There are times I get light strikes while sometimes it just runs really great.

I will now try a heavier firing pin spring (back to stock spring) and I am 99.9% that it would eliminate the light strikes however, I can already feel a heavier trigger.

Apart from purchasing the full zev trigger kit, is there any other remedy to achieve a light trigger but eliminate light strikes?

Yes! you need to get a extended/lightweight striker. That's the only way you can really use the 4lb striker spring reliably. I prefer Jagers light weight striker, but Glockworx makes one also. Either of those two.

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It is hard to get 100% reliability w/ a light striker spring and standard striker. the elusive SA feel of a glock trigger and light 2-2.5lb break can come with a price guys. like using federal primers only. the trigger system HAS to travel to work, it is how it is designed. an extended striker helps and ensuring that the striker gets plenty of travel to compress that spring and then let it slam forward with its momentum to set off the primer. I tell everyone no matter the striker and no matter the spring weight and no matter the brand of primer, be sure to SEAT THE PRIMERS AS DEEP AS YOU CAN CRAM THEM.

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