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Tula Primers


mhoosier

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I have a thread going about this very same topic under "general reloading". I switched over to Tula recently because PV had them at a good price. Since then, I've had ~1-2 every 100 rounds. I have tried to fire them repeatedly and even in different guns to no avail.

I'm gonna keep the 7k i have left for practice rounds. I guess I can justify it as I will be concentrating harder on the sights when I know my next round could be the dud!

Edit to add: I guess to answer your question, no. I haven't found a way to tell which ones are going to go bang. I've gone through about 3k of em.

Edited by blopez50
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Not that it makes you feel any better; but I have the same issue out of a bone stock Glock 34. I get a consistent 0.5-1% or so failure rate, even after repeated firings of the failed cartridge. Definitely not high primers or anything. Get what you pay for I guess.

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FWIW, I've loaded over 10,000 Tulas and have NEVER had a primer fail to go off.

Several different lots, dates, etc... They are the only primers I'm using, local matches & majors.

They have all been fired out of a Limited gun with 17# mainspring.

Several shooters at my local club use them in their CZ production guns with similar success. My sister has also used a few thousand in her XDM 5.25 with no failures to speak of.

To be honest, for my purposes, I cant imagine a better primer. Sure, they are probably to hard for a 4# DA gun, but thats what Feds are for.

Edited by Ssanders224
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FWIW, I've loaded over 10,000 Tulas and have NEVER had a primer fail to go off.

Several different lots, dates, etc... They are the only primers I'm using, local matches & majors.

They have all been fired out of a Limited gun with 17# mainspring.

Several shooters at my local club use them in their CZ production guns with similar success. My sister has also used a few thousand in her XDM 5.25 with no failures to speak of.

To be honest, for my purposes, I cant imagine a better primer. Sure, they are probably to hard for a 4# DA gun, but thats what Feds are for.

I have had the same experience in my hammer fired guns. I did borrow a guys M&P and used my ammo and had a few FTF's I wish you guys lived close, I would take them off your hands.

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FWIW, I've loaded over 10,000 Tulas and have NEVER had a primer fail to go off.Several different lots, dates, etc... They are the only primers I'm using, local matches & majors.They have all been fired out of a Limited gun with 17# mainspring.Several shooters at my local club use them in their CZ production guns with similar success. My sister has also used a few thousand in her XDM 5.25 with no failures to speak of.To be honest, for my purposes, I cant imagine a better primer. Sure, they are probably to hard for a 4# DA gun, but thats what Feds are for.

Same here, maybe 15000 between 223, 9 and 40 and never an issue that wasn't my fault

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Whenever I have had a Tula primer fail to ignite, it was because I got lazy seating them deep enough. They have always gone bang on the second hit. Since I have been more diligent about seating them, I have had zero problems. The primer cups are slightly bigger/harder, so you really have to ensure that you seat them right.

Now that I have a 1050 with adjustable primer depth, I will buy Tula exclusively.

I shoot them without issue from my 2011 guns.

Edited by JaeOne3345
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I was having great luck for a while. The first few thousands rounds went off without a hitch. Then suddenly in this last 1000 I've had about 20 that won't fire. They are small primers shooting through a 1911 and a CZ. I've event dropped the hammer on the failures multiple times with both guns.

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Ive had one light strike on my 226x5 competition, but it was due to a high seated primer.

My x5s, 226, 229, gp100 and a pair of 627s have fired off 3500 rounds and only had the one issue.

I don't regret the purchase and don't mind seeing 5 cases in my reloading closet.

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That's a good point about seating depth. I've checked the ones that I had problems with and they did not appear to be under inserted. But I only have a couple hundred left that are loaded so that is something I can pay extra special attention to for the next 1000. It's not hard to imagine me being lazy :-)

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I use them in hammer guns and have had a couple that just wouldn't go off no matter how many time they were hit. I pulled the bullets and decapped the primer to see if there was something obviously wrong, and they looked OK to me. :huh:

Good price and they are available so I'll use them, but if I'm striving for 100% I'll use winchester or federals.

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i have been following threads on Tula primers for a while. It seems that guns with a good spring and a round firing pin seem to have no issues. Glocks, MP's and light sprung ones have issues.

2011 guns seem to have no issues. buy a few and try it out in your gun and if they run 100%, they will most likely run so.

PV is out of them now in SP anyways

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I've got about 5000 left. I have gone through the first thousand with only 1 failure and the primer appeared to be inserted way to deep. I pulled several others after visual inspection before a match. I fired them later during practice and they all worked to. For some reason it seems I can seat them too deeply on my 550. I don't have that issue with CCI or Remington. For the price, I can't complain. I'll keep using them. I don't know how others are getting light strikes. If have to assume a similar issue as that's exactly what happened in my CZ TS on the round I mentioned. Check the depth and see if that's your issue. How else would you explain a light strike in a fun that otherwise works reliably for you? The firing pin doesn't protrude much when fully extended. It only takes a few thou and you're out of luck.

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Tula primers must be seated HARD. The anvil must be fully pressed into the priming compound, as with most primers, to work properly. I have had good luck with them, but you cannot use any measurement method for seating. It's all about feel. They have to go home hard... then they are reliable. Also... they are a bit on the hard side cup wise, so the striker hit has to be firm as well producing a decent dent. That said, I have used them even with an EAA Match that has a pretty light mainspring and even with a small dent they work well if they are seated fully into the case.

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