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JediTodd

Beretta 1301 Comp

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Is any one running a 3/4 oz load or some other type of low recoil shell that cycles well in your 1301?

If you want off the shelf low recoil ammo that cycles reliably you may want to look at Winchester AA International shells. Part # AANL1275. They wont beat you up as bad and once the 1301 is broke in after a hundred rounds or so they cycle the gun well. Id shoot at least 1-200 full power loads breaking in the firearm though. The international loads have a small payload but are pretty fast. The targets wont know the difference except maybe a spinner. Edited by JoeBoboutfitters

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You think a higher dram w a lighter load is better than say the AAL127 with a 1oz load and only a 2 3/4 Dram?

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You think a higher dram w a lighter load is better than say the AAL127 with a 1oz load and only a 2 3/4 Dram?

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I prefer the opposite. A 2 3/4 dram with 1 1/8 oz. seems like it recoils less and still knocks the steel over well enough.

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You think a higher dram w a lighter load is better than say the AAL127 with a 1oz load and only a 2 3/4 Dram?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

I prefer the opposite. A 2 3/4 dram with 1 1/8 oz. seems like it recoils less and still knocks the steel over well enough.

I agree....1 1/8 oz of shot at 1145 fps (2 ¾ DE) to 1200 fps (3 DE) is an optimum patterning load for the 12 ga and will cycle most guns (1301, M2, etc)

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REm STS 1 1/8oz at 1050 runs really well in mine, it is a 2.5 dram load and takes full size poppers over out to 25 yards. it is my favorite load to use.

Trapr

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We currently run 3 Dram, 1 1/8 oz Federal bulk ... Guns love it. Shot a match this weekend and one of the big 3gun guys said to drop the Dram and possibly the oz for less recoil. We shot some 2 3/4 dram 1 1/8 last night and honestly didn't feel a difference

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I had to shoot some of my old standard loads for my Benelli at the M3G match the other day and the first sg rounds had me bouncig all over the place, I apparently had gotten used to the 2.5 dram stuff and switching to 3.25 dram stuff was noticeable.

Trapr

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We currently run 3 Dram, 1 1/8 oz Federal bulk ... Guns love it. Shot a match this weekend and one of the big 3gun guys said to drop the Dram and possibly the oz for less recoil. We shot some 2 3/4 dram 1 1/8 last night and honestly didn't feel a difference

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I ran ~300 shells of this through mine flawlessly this weekend. It hits the pepper poppers and plate racks hard without much felt recoil.

http://youtu.be/Kx5l45z3Bks

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what is dram? i noticed some boxes say what dram it is and others don't. Speaking in terms of recoil, you have mass and velocity. So i assume the dram has to do with the velocity if you can have 1 1/8 oz with different dram? Thanks for all the great info.

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"Dram" is also used as a measure of the powder charge in a shotgun shell, representing the equivalent of black powder in drams avoirdupois. Unit of volume. Pretty much just used as a way to compare current powder charges to black powder from the old days

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An easy way (or at least to me)to look at DRAM, is to think about it as you would Hit Factor on a stage, it is the balance between payload weight and powder charge, decrease one and you have to increase the other to keep the DRAM equal. much the same way you can figure a needed HF for a stage by playing with points or speed to get to the same value.

DRAM value, is an easy way to determine what loads YOUR gun runs reliably with you driving it.

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"Dram" is also used as a measure of the powder charge in a shotgun shell, representing the equivalent of black powder in drams avoirdupois. Unit of volume. Pretty much just used as a way to compare current powder charges to black powder from the old days

Something I found on the .net:

DEP12.jpg

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"Dram" is also used as a measure of the powder charge in a shotgun shell, representing the equivalent of black powder in drams avoirdupois. Unit of volume. Pretty much just used as a way to compare current powder charges to black powder from the old days

Something I found on the .net:

DEP12.jpg

cool, i googled DRAM and shotgun DRAM and came up with little that appeared useful. Apparently DRAM has many other meanings. Thanks for info guys!

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So what's the proper way to size the stock length on a shotgun? I saw on another thread about an article that some one did. I haven't been able to find it. So if some one can give me the link that works as well. When I put the first 100 rounds through my 1301 I had about five or so rounds that had me punching my nose with my thumb. I then added the small extension. Is there a general rule for the length you would want for 3 gun? Is this length the same as you would want for other sg sports or do you guys prefer something slightly shorter?

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Edited by xtremekramer

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I prefer 1/2" shorter than I would normally on a SG used for hunting or other shooting sports, due to us having to rapidly throw the gun to our shoulder and hit stuff, having it a bit shorter allows for a more snag free jump to the shoulder.

trapr

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Bought the 24" for my son and added the Nordic extension.. All I can say is WOW! I might have to trade my FN SLP competition with him for it. Feeds cheap low-base field loads with zero problems!

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So far my only issue with my 1301 is the jam issue that was mentioned in another thread. Here is what I have found: I have done it in practice several times. Load one in the chamber and hit the bolt release, load the tube, hit the bolt release. It releases 1.5 shells onto the lifter. PITA to clear. I am fairly new to shotguns, so I don't know if any other semi will do this, but the 1301 will do it every time. Partial answer is just don't hit the release button. However, the nice large release button is great when you are trying to hit it and not so great when you accidentally hit it. Is there any way to make sure this doesn't happen on the clock? Seems it was designed to allow a quick mag tube ammo dump, but when the lifter is down in a chamber loaded state it still allows the ammo dump to function.

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stop hitting the bolt release, is the easiest answer!!! the RNT bolt drop paddle is the next easiest, its made for Benelli's but fits the 1301's as well, it makes the button a bit more streamline and lower profile. you can see a pic of it on the Red Neck Tactical FB page. If you can't find it text me and I'll forward you a pic. 5124965386.

trapr

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Yup, more practice required! Sent my lifter off to C-RUMS and it arrived there on Saturday! Hope to get it back soon! So no practice till it's back. Hoping to shoot my first match July 12th.

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Edited by xtremekramer

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I was cleaning my gun for Area 6 Multigun and lost trigger housing pin. Nothing available from Beretta, Brownell's, or Numrich's. Pulled out Benelli from closet ,was going to park the Beretta there,and decided to make one from machine screw. Went to Ace Hardware and instead got a 5/32" Tension Pin. Fit perfectly-including length and was $.85, so I got two. Didn't know Ace had these kinds of roll pins available. Awesome. Went to range and works excellently.

post-14685-0-65153500-1403812593_thumb.j

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Ace is an awesome store for nuts and bolts. And pins too :). Glad you were able to salvage your range trip!

I was cleaning my gun for Area 6 Multigun and lost trigger housing pin. Nothing available from Beretta, Brownell's, or Numrich's. Pulled out Benelli from closet ,was going to park the Beretta there,and decided to make one from machine screw. Went to Ace Hardware and instead got a 5/32" Tension Pin. Fit perfectly-including length and was $.85, so I got two. Didn't know Ace had these kinds of roll pins available. Awesome. Went to range and works excellently.

attachicon.gifIMG_5638.jpg

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Fate throws you a bone now and then. Really wanted to shoot this in Area 6 Multigun. Now I can!

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8A9DC82F-1DC9-4F7F-B59E-E7238E052F14.jpg

Nordic +5 came in yesterday. Now I just need my lifter back from C-RUMS and I will be good to go!



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Edited by xtremekramer

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What did you want fixed on the lifter? The stock one loads fine

Welding the lifter can still help. With smaller thumbs they can still get caught

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