BigDawg308

Yes. It makes all the difference in not having to fight that lifter when loading quads.

http://shop.gameacc.net/ULTRA-SERIES-Beretta-OPTIMA-HP-NOT-OPTIMA-UOPTHP.htm

Doh! Pure Gold Spreader, not ProGold. Oops.

I've got a ProGold Spreader I paid ~$50 for that does the trick very well.

My 1301 ran like a champ all weekend at the Versa Max match. I ran the same sort of mixture as Paul did. I didn't place nearly as well as I'd have liked, but this was my first shotgun-only match. I learned so much this weekend that I feel like I've got a nice advantage in 3-Gun over my buddies who didn't shoot the match.

Thanks for the great info. I can't wait for mine to arrive.

I primarily shoot the Wal Mart Federal bulk stuff. It eats it like pacman. Ditto. Both my 1301's eat it like they're $.10 hot wings.

I haven't broken down my 1301 from the match this past weekend, but I think something broke. On the 10th and final stage of the Atlanta 3-Gun Club Championships the gun just decided it didn't want to run anymore. I was very lucky to have gotten a favorable ruling by the RO that I could use somebody else's shotgun. Otherwise I would have gotten 180+ seconds of penalties since it was the Jungle Run stage.

I used sandpaper on mine to hollow out around the outside of the QD plate. Beretta didn't really leave any sort of lip for the swivel to connect to. After doing that, every swivel I've used, cheap or expensive, has worked just fine.

I had this exact problem this past weekend. I'd had my loading port opened up by a gunsmith, so I wasn't the one who reassembled the shotgun. It would only fire once some of the time and only if I'd let the bolt slam home on the first round. He hadn't properly seated the barrel into the receiver, and it was pushed forward about 1/8 inch. The bolt was not fully returning into battery enough so that the firing pin couldn't hit the primer. I disassembled and reassembled, and the gun ran flawlessly.

It was a buddy's TTI, and it didn't have a LimbSaver. I don't think a LimbSaver would have made much difference on that one. I'm a big boy (6'0" 350). I shoot with pretty good form and am always leaning forward into the shot. The TTI M2 had enough recoil to stand me up. I wasn't a fan. Take that TFB review with a grain of salt. I read it and had all sorts of problems with his review, and yes it was the 1301 Tactical, so I'm assuming some handling characteristics are different. Shooting Fiocchi and Remington low recoil slugs in my 1301's is actually pretty pleasurable. I have not shot full power slug loads through either of my 1301's. I wouldn't consider myself a zealot, but I like the shotgun so much that I've got 2 of them.

I've got both a 21" and 24" 1301. I don't feel like either of them kick very much at all, but I did put LimbSavers on them prior to ever shooting them with the factory pad on. This past weekend, I shot the same course of fire with my 21", a Taran Tactical Benelli M2, and a Mossberg 930JM Pro. By far my 1301 kicked the least of all of them. The TTI M2 cycled the fastest, but it kicked like a mule compared to my 1301. It kicked so much more that it took me off target for follow up shots on the next target. All 3 runs were shot using the same WalMart Federal value pack.

I'm running Carlson chokes and have been very pleased with them. Optics Planet is having a 10% off sale today on orders over $100. Three chokes get you there.

Are you having this problem with birdshot? Slugs? Both? Are you running an extension with a barrel clamp? A lot of us had issues with elevation being off with slugs and switching to the 65 shim included in the box completely corrected that issue for most of us with slugs. If the problem exists with birdshot and you're running a barrel clamp, I'd remove the clamp and try it again. The 65 shim really made a big difference on both my 24" and 21" 1301's.

The 1301 Tactical does not have a vent rib barrel with brass mid bead and fiber optic front sight post. It has a ghost ring sight type setup. I'm sure that's fine if your job is kicking in doors and clearing houses, but it's not what I want on a 3-gun shotgun. Some people use and love them, so YMMV. I don't see why it wouldn't. I run a +7 on my 21" just fine. I guess my only concern would be with a +9 if you'd have enough spring pressure on the last round or two to properly feed.

http://usarmorment.com/ammunition-c-1/%C2%A0shotgun-c-1_408/remington-12-ga-law-enforcement-reduced-recoil-rifled-slugs-2-34250-round-case-p-2550.html That's where I got my slugs.

Quite a few of us have changed to the 65 shim, and it fixed the slug problem. My POA is now POI.

I don't know if there are any lurkers in this thread who have been on the fence about buying one, but Cheaper Than Dirt has both the 21" and 24" models for $938.33 shipped. At that price, I picked up a 21" to go with my 24".

I've got a +5 on my 24" and planning on going to a +7 or +8. I don't know if anybody's answer changes based on the length of the tube. I'm not one who is just chucking the shotgun in a barrel.

For you guys who run a Nordic tube, do you find the barrel clamp to be a necessary evil? I know this shotgun is my 3-gun shotgun and will get bumped around, but the Nordic barrel clamp has marred the heck out of my barrel and tube. I plan on sending the gun off to C-Rums to get some work done, but when it comes back I plan on cerakoting the receiver, barrel, and tube. If the barrel clamp isn't necessary, then I'm going to scrap it so it doesn't mess up the new cerakote when it's done.

I ran ~300 shells of this through mine flawlessly this weekend. It hits the pepper poppers and plate racks hard without much felt recoil. http://youtu.be/Kx5l45z3Bks

Today was my first opportunity to shoot slugs through my new 1301. Is POI 3-4" high @ 25 yards about right for the factory choke? Windage was perfect at that distance.

That's going to be my first 3G match, too.

Does anybody have any suggestions for a side saddle for my 1301? It's a requirement of an upcoming class I'm taking.