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JediTodd

Beretta 1301 Comp

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So this weekend while cleaning the 1301 I decided to pull some blue loctite and apply it to the rear bead and to the bolt release. While putting the screw back on the bolt release I ended up stripping it. I feel extrememly dumb and mad at myself. Where can I order a replacement, or could I just head to Home depot/Lowes and try to find a similar one in size? Not sure if it is the screw of the thing that holds the screw.

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So this weekend while cleaning the 1301 I decided to pull some blue loctite and apply it to the rear bead and to the bolt release. While putting the screw back on the bolt release I ended up stripping it. I feel extrememly dumb and mad at myself. Where can I order a replacement, or could I just head to Home depot/Lowes and try to find a similar one in size? Not sure if it is the screw of the thing that holds the screw.

This won't be super helpful, because they aren't in stock, but you could always stick on on back order and then go looking elsewhere. I would hit up the known Beretta shotgun smiths to see if they have one.

http://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/receiver-action-parts/cartridge-parts/cartridge-stops/screw-cart-latch-button-1301-competition-prod58277.aspx

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So this weekend while cleaning the 1301 I decided to pull some blue loctite and apply it to the rear bead and to the bolt release. While putting the screw back on the bolt release I ended up stripping it. I feel extrememly dumb and mad at myself. Where can I order a replacement, or could I just head to Home depot/Lowes and try to find a similar one in size? Not sure if it is the screw of the thing that holds the screw.

The bolt release is an M3 screw. The factory is too short. Find an M3x6mm button head screw and buy 5 or 6. My True Value had them at about 30 cents each. Use LocTite Small Screw thread locker.

Pat

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+1 on what Pat said. I recently hit my bolt release during practice and nothing happened. Initially thought that the screw had just backed out but it had actually pulled out. As Pat mentioned the factory screw is too short. I went to Ace Hardware and found a M3 x .5 pitch with counter sunk flat head that was a little longer than the original (sorry I don't remember the actual length). I did have to open the counter sink in the release lever a little for the new screw. I put a little blue loctite on it and it works great.

Jeff

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I am pretty new to shotguns. Bought my 24" on saturday. Been practicing loading and shouldering the gun. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. My 870 has the ghost ring on it, so for the most part i have always aimed it like a rifle. I assume with the mid bead you line up the mid bead with the front fiber? When i shoulder mine, most of the time the mid bead is just below the front fiber. Does this mean i need to use the other shim? Or should i just go shoot it first and see if poa=poi and then change it if it isn't?

My release bolt was pretty loose on mine. Just put some loc tite on it. My bolt handle is tight enough i can't get it off by hand and can't seem to unscrew the mid bead by hand either. So hopefully mine are good.

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So playing some more with mine. Realized in practicing my loading that loading a shell past the lifter but not past the catch accidentally ghost loads the gun. After reading through this entire thread over the last few days and starting to understand how the mag tubes work, have any of you shortened your spring enough to allow this to happen on purpose and still get full mag tubes? Or does the spring end up being to short to reliably function by the time it is short enough to almost allow an extra round in the tube?

Also, I am trying to do the quick mag tube empty by pressing the bolt release. It does release the shells but they slide back to the back of the port and get stuck. I pull one out and the next one gets stuck as well. Is this a technique thing? Potentially just the dummy shells i am using? Just ordered better dummy shells tonight.

Edited by xtremekramer

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If you ghost load by putting one in the tube and having it release onto the lifter, you arent ghost loading because your mag tube isnt full. Ghost loading is filling the mag tube to capacity, then adding one onto the lifter.

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If you ghost load by putting one in the tube and having it release onto the lifter, you arent ghost loading because your mag tube isnt full. Ghost loading is filling the mag tube to capacity, then adding one onto the lifter.

So if you are close enough to ghost load through the tube then you are close enough to get an extra round in the tube then.

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If you ghost load by putting one in the tube and having it release onto the lifter, you arent ghost loading because your mag tube isnt full. Ghost loading is filling the mag tube to capacity, then adding one onto the lifter.

So if you are close enough to ghost load through the tube then you are close enough to get an extra round in the tube then.

I am not sure we have the same definition of Ghost load.

What I have always referred to as ghost load is this

Tube fully loaded, on a older Benelli or a modified new one.

You can pull back the bolt just enough to get a shell in and push the lifter down.

You then load one in the chamber it allows you to increase you capacity by one.

Haven't tried it with the beretta.

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Are there some shotguns that you can ghost load by pushing a shell not all the way past the shell release, and let go and it sits above the lifter?

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I am pretty new to shotguns. Bought my 24" on saturday. Been practicing loading and shouldering the gun. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. My 870 has the ghost ring on it, so for the most part i have always aimed it like a rifle. I assume with the mid bead you line up the mid bead with the front fiber? When i shoulder mine, most of the time the mid bead is just below the front fiber. Does this mean i need to use the other shim? Or should i just go shoot it first and see if poa=poi and then change it if it isn't?

My release bolt was pretty loose on mine. Just put some loc tite on it. My bolt handle is tight enough i can't get it off by hand and can't seem to unscrew the mid bead by hand either. So hopefully mine are good.

I didn't see anyone answer your initial questions, so I'll try to do that as best as I can.

I only use the mid bead when shooting slugs. For it to shoot POA/POI for me, I need the beads to line up with another. So the brass bead covers up the fiber optic. It sounds like the far majority of people shoot slugs high with this shotgun right out of the box and experience exactly as you experience, the fiber optic "sitting" on top of the mid bead. I was in the same boat. I would shoot it at 50 yards to verify, but my guess is that you'll want to change out your drop ship. The 65 has seemed to do the trick for myself and most everyone here.

I'm curious about your comment about your bolt handle not coming off by hand. Are you pulling straight out on it to see if it will come out? The bolt and carrier are keyed so that in their relaxed positions, they prevent the bolt from coming out. You have to manually push the bolt in ~about half way for the holes to align before the bolt will come out. Please see your user's manual.

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Are there some shotguns that you can ghost load by pushing a shell not all the way past the shell release, and let go and it sits above the lifter?

Yes but you will defeat the purpose as there will still be one missing in the tube, thus capacity is un changed.

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Maybe i was miss remembering which 3 pieces come loose on these. I thought it was the mid bead, the bolt release and the bolt handle that needed loc tite. As there are now 37 pages, it took me 4 days to completely read though it. Makes sense about the tube. Like i said, i did it on accident several times while loading it. I haven't bought my nordic +5 yet and have no experience with playing with the spring tension.

Edited by xtremekramer

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Are there some shotguns that you can ghost load by pushing a shell not all the way past the shell release, and let go and it sits above the lifter?

Yes but you will defeat the purpose as there will still be one missing in the tube, thus capacity is un changed.

My mossberg 930 8rounder would allow 3/4 of a 9th in the tube, but not the whole thing. Guess I assumed it was this kind of situation.

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oscarmike, that's kinda what I was wondering if it was possible. My question I guess would be, is there a scenario where you can shorten the spring enough with out compromising the feeding, where you would get almost a 11th round but not quite and successfully ghost load through the port like I was accidentally doing it. Guess for the price of a spring I could experiment after I get my + 5.

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if you just want one more round then get a +1 added to your extension, the NEED for loading one on the carrier is no longer legitimate as the vast majority of matches have no restrictions on tube length, and require only a set amount of rounds at the start.

The whole loading the carrier thing is a dinosaur left over from the days of rules stating mag tubes can only extend 1" beyond the barrel, and barrels could only be 22" max.

Trapr

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So this weekend while cleaning the 1301 I decided to pull some blue loctite and apply it to the rear bead and to the bolt release. While putting the screw back on the bolt release I ended up stripping it. I feel extrememly dumb and mad at myself. Where can I order a replacement, or could I just head to Home depot/Lowes and try to find a similar one in size? Not sure if it is the screw of the thing that holds the screw.

The bolt release is an M3 screw. The factory is too short. Find an M3x6mm button head screw and buy 5 or 6. My True Value had them at about 30 cents each. Use LocTite Small Screw thread locker.

Pat

+1 on what Pat said. I recently hit my bolt release during practice and nothing happened. Initially thought that the screw had just backed out but it had actually pulled out. As Pat mentioned the factory screw is too short. I went to Ace Hardware and found a M3 x .5 pitch with counter sunk flat head that was a little longer than the original (sorry I don't remember the actual length). I did have to open the counter sink in the release lever a little for the new screw. I put a little blue loctite on it and it works great.

Jeff

Thanks for the help guys, running to Ace Hardware today after work to find a screw.

Another question, I have 21" 1301 with a +4 and added a +1 to that. I am now looking at chokes for it. Noticed that most of them are either flush, extended + 3/4'' and a 2''. Is there a difference in performance in going with a 2'' instead of a 3/4". Only reason why I'm leaning with the 2" is so they magazine tube wont look so long.

FYI, Beretta is running a 25% off sitewide at their online store.

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oscarmike, that's kinda what I was wondering if it was possible. My question I guess would be, is there a scenario where you can shorten the spring enough with out compromising the feeding, where you would get almost a 11th round but not quite and successfully ghost load through the port like I was accidentally doing it. Guess for the price of a spring I could experiment after I get my + 5.

I am pretty sure if you have a round in the chamber and a round on the lifter and a round in the tube when you pull the trigger you are going to have a nice double feed that is going to be a huge pain in the ass to fix while on the clock. I could be wrong though...

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FYI, Beretta is running a 25% off sitewide at their online store.

So right now they are only 75% over priced on just about everything?

oscarmike, that's kinda what I was wondering if it was possible. My question I guess would be, is there a scenario where you can shorten the spring enough with out compromising the feeding, where you would get almost a 11th round but not quite and successfully ghost load through the port like I was accidentally doing it. Guess for the price of a spring I could experiment after I get my + 5.

I am pretty sure if you have a round in the chamber and a round on the lifter and a round in the tube when you pull the trigger you are going to have a nice double feed that is going to be a huge pain in the ass to fix while on the clock. I could be wrong though...

+1. I agree. I'll test to be sure, but I think you're right.

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Get the 3/4" extend chokes. An IC and a Mod and you're good. You can ghost load this gun, and no, you won't have double feed. But, as Trapr pointed out, there is no point in it.

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oscarmike, that's kinda what I was wondering if it was possible. My question I guess would be, is there a scenario where you can shorten the spring enough with out compromising the feeding, where you would get almost a 11th round but not quite and successfully ghost load through the port like I was accidentally doing it. Guess for the price of a spring I could experiment after I get my + 5.

I am pretty sure if you have a round in the chamber and a round on the lifter and a round in the tube when you pull the trigger you are going to have a nice double feed that is going to be a huge pain in the ass to fix while on the clock. I could be wrong though...

The round on the lifter keeps the other round in the tube. It would not double feed. It's no different than normal. If it did, what would stop the shotgun from double feeding a round every time you fired the gun?

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This is how one ghost loads. The guy is using a Benelli but the procedure is the same with the Beretta.

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If you listen to the video, he talks about loading 7 'legally'. It's a Canadian video - the only place ghost loading is still relevant due to federal laws.

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