Mikelindsey Posted August 27, 2013 Author Share Posted August 27, 2013 I like mine and it just as the last poster says, by the time you make one it might save time and money just to buy one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 I didn't say that, I would certainly make one before buying one. However, it would take me longer to go to the post office to mail the thing than it would take to modify it. Not to mention most machine shops would just scare you away with a minimum charge for just one of anything. I was just saying Pat is being fair even though it seems expensive at first glance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingrhino Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 I bought a roll of UHMW tape from McMaster Carr. Cut a piece the width and length of the ramp, cleaned it good with alcohol and stuck the tape on. Glides better than grease! Noticably smoother. I use the tape for lots of stuff. It's slicker than owl snot and tough. Comes in three thicknesses. I think mine is .0065 but not sure, not real important. 5 yard spool of 1" wide is only 6.00. Part number is 76445A743. Works great for anything that slides. Drawers, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowshooze Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) I made a roller cam last week for my 650. Smoothed out the press. Cost was $2.00. I love my Bridgeport! Pat That's $2.00 off cost of mill.right ? No, the difference between my cost and the $40.00 plus shipping for the Ebay item. 15 minute job. Pat I took a 1 1/4" Keo keyway cutter and ground it to .163" width to accomodate a 3mm x 10mm x 4mm sealed roller bearing. Purchased a 3mm carbide drill, and 41L40 leaded screw stock... a Geometric die head, a couple other things... 3 mm x 10 mm roll pin from Grainger. ( Perfect!!! ) But if you get that side clearance reasonable, you will be fine. My prototype was with a 1/2" bearing... it worked great. I just wanted to put a bit of professionalism on that, as it looked a bit goofy. The other important thing is turning down your stock to .365" to 3/4" past the last trace of thread. 3% ( + - ) of the XL 650's have an underbored clearance hole. I know not why. It was a bugger putting them roll pins in until I made a press to do it. They are little, and un-co-operative. And I am old and blind. And cranky. The biggest thing is the spring. I had some made up. But whack 1/2 gap out of factory, and you will not believe the results. Edited February 2, 2014 by snowshooze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowshooze Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I'd buy one if Pat's making them for $2.00 ME TOO Me too, and I am the guy that makes them!!! LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowshooze Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I made a roller cam last week for my 650. Smoothed out the press. Cost was $2.00. I love my Bridgeport! Pat Cool Pat! I am the manufacturer of the item, and I was kicking dirt on you just for fun. It's totally cool. I just got my CNC mill in, and was wondering what you had. I got more stuff, and I don't know if it will survive the cost of jobbing it out. I need precision surface grinding on jigged parts. Thanks, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjohn Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 I like the tape idea. Also, does anyone believe that there could be any benefits gained by using the UHMW tape at the index ring location and also for the primer cam? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyK Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hope everyone appreciates just what Mark is doing. It takes much more than just buying a small bearing to make this available for sale. There is time, effort and machinery involved and they all cost money.... If you add in your own time its gonna be way cheaper to buy the ready made part than to do it yourself. And in the long run consider how much use you will get out of it. As for the UHMW tape long term durability depends on the surface area and how much pressure is at the contact surface. A large flat surface may never wear out and a small point will wear fairly quickly. (I fabricate components at work with a lot of UHMW but more for its toughness and water resistance than as a bearing/slippery surface). Be interesting to hear from someone about long term use of the tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted February 2, 2014 Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hope everyone appreciates just what Mark is doing. It takes much more than just buying a small bearing to make this available for sale. There is time, effort and machinery involved and they all cost money.... If you add in your own time its gonna be way cheaper to buy the ready made part than to do it yourself. And in the long run consider how much use you will get out of it. Good advice TonyK! Be great if we all had the chance to watch a machinist in action; would greatly increase our knowledge of what it takes to produce something that "appears" to be so simple.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowshooze Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 what did they do? just mill out the end and put a bearing in? Pretty much. It's held in with a press-fit pin. If you have one, can you give the OD and width of the bearing, along with an approximation on the pin diameter? M 10, x 3 x 4 and a M3 roll pin 10MM long. Slot width seems good at .164" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingrhino Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 I like the tape idea. Also, does anyone believe that there could be any benefits gained by using the UHMW tape at the index ring location and also for the primer cam? I put it on both those also. I love the tape. Use it for lots of things. Drawer slides, etc. Anything that rubs something. I also made my own bullet feeder and case feeder. Put a few squares of tape under the shell/bullet plates. The reduced drag allowed me to add more cases/bullets without loading down the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingrhino Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hope everyone appreciates just what Mark is doing. It takes much more than just buying a small bearing to make this available for sale. There is time, effort and machinery involved and they all cost money.... If you add in your own time its gonna be way cheaper to buy the ready made part than to do it yourself. And in the long run consider how much use you will get out of it. As for the UHMW tape long term durability depends on the surface area and how much pressure is at the contact surface. A large flat surface may never wear out and a small point will wear fairly quickly. (I fabricate components at work with a lot of UHMW but more for its toughness and water resistance than as a bearing/slippery surface). Be interesting to hear from someone about long term use of the tape. I have about 5000 rounds through my press since I put it on. It wears really well. I just took my press apart and cleaned and realigned the platform. Replaced the tape while I was at it. It's cheap and lasts a long time. If I had put it on 15 years ago when I got it I'd have a lot less wear on those plastic parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beerman Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 i bought the roller cam and phenolic ball and spring from snowshooze and mounted it on sunday. the smoothest xl 650 i have ever used! the 5 rounds i loaded before i made a 9mm NO-rim-at-all case stuck in sizedie was really amazingly smooth. will recommend this kit to all my friends that do any reloading on a 650 thank you sir, i gave you top e.bay ratings (and the letter unfortunally slipped through customs ;-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 He sent me one of these as a sample. But since I don't have 650 press... I'll pass it on (n/c) to the first person to quote this post, and say they want it. be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BSeevers Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 He sent me one of these as a sample. But since I don't have 650 press... I'll pass it on (n/c) to the first person to quote this post, and say they want it. be I'll take it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Bill, Fast as usual! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benos Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Nice work Bill! PM me your mailing address. Or I'll get it sent faster if you email me your address, to: forum@brianenos.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropsitos Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Does the roller cam inhibit the adjustability of that rod? I have a new 650 so I'm still figuring things out, and I just read in the manual that you need to adjust rod height when you change calibers. From what I'm seeing the roller bearing can only be adjusted in 180 increments (keeping the bearing OD in good square contact to the ramp). Does that matter? is that adjustment height just not that critical? I really like the idea of the roller cam...steel rubbing on greased plastic seems, so, not premium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Miles Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 The adjustment of the rod has to be correct but not critically correct. Given that the threads on the rod are a fine pitch (24 TPI) the adjustment in only 180 degree increments will work just fine. Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dillon Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 One drawback we've already seen with the roller/rod is on an XL650 that came to us for repair. The operator had the roller oriented sideways, so it didn't roll. Instead it scooped a groove in the ramp. We don't think the operator understood how a roller worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 One drawback we've already seen with the roller/rod is on an XL650 that came to us for repair. The operator had the roller oriented sideways, so it didn't roll. Instead it scooped a groove in the ramp. We don't think the operator understood how a roller worked. This person shouldn't be reloading... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 One drawback we've already seen with the roller/rod is on an XL650 that came to us for repair. The operator had the roller oriented sideways, so it didn't roll. Instead it scooped a groove in the ramp. We don't think the operator understood how a roller worked. Man, that's an understatement! Agree with RDA, that person should re-think reloading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowshooze Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 Does the roller cam inhibit the adjustability of that rod? I have a new 650 so I'm still figuring things out, and I just read in the manual that you need to adjust rod height when you change calibers. From what I'm seeing the roller bearing can only be adjusted in 180 increments (keeping the bearing OD in good square contact to the ramp). Does that matter? is that adjustment height just not that critical? I really like the idea of the roller cam...steel rubbing on greased plastic seems, so, not premium. Well, as it is a 24 threads per inch, and a minimum adjustment of one half turn, yeah. But, that equates to .020" which for all intended purposes can be overlooked. So, practically speaking, no. The Dillon stock follower really isn't too bad. But honestly, as much as I would like to sell you one, I always recommend you just start out with what you get. You just bought a new beast. Yer gonna have to tame it, and get used to it. And I guarantee you will have your hands full for a while doing that, and it won't always be pretty. I mean a sale is welcome, but you are going to be busy a while. A couple degrees this way or that... the bearing can slip on a tangent just fine. It is a lot slicker than the factory rod if you want to talk co-efficent of friction. ( I'd rather play dumb ) Don't fret. I am not pulling the offer anytime soon. Thank you very much for your interest. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowshooze Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 (edited) One drawback we've already seen with the roller/rod is on an XL650 that came to us for repair. The operator had the roller oriented sideways, so it didn't roll. Instead it scooped a groove in the ramp. We don't think the operator understood how a roller worked. Hm. Edited February 8, 2014 by snowshooze Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prebaned Posted February 9, 2014 Share Posted February 9, 2014 I just took my OEM caming pin and made it a roller for the sole purpose of one less grease spot to collect dust and powder. The OEM pin worked just fine and I can not tell the resistive difference in the handle stroke. What I do notice is the transition of the bearing to shaft contact at the slip off point of the slide cam block. It is very minimal but can be felt ever so slightly. Not as smoth as the OE pin at that point as the diameter of the rod and taper point is fluid. It is however nice not having grease on the block though and a well worth having modification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now