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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

ropsitos

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Everything posted by ropsitos

  1. I made it into the office today with a couple random 9mm range pickup cases. Not really enough to do math on, but until I run some more... All in Newtons and peak force. 310 215 345 240 310 avg 284 es 130 sd 54 If we suspend disbelief for a moment, the 3sigma + avg is 447, so I'd think a 500N (~112lb) max design load would be a good place to start. If I get the chance I'll run some more. Not sure it will happen as we are in the process of laying people off like mad, so I won't know if I end up on the block. Thanks Bob
  2. I can't seem to find this with my google fu, and I have to believe someone has measured it at some point, somewhere. I can take the assembly into work, and use a force gage in a press, but I'm not there right now and I loathe going into the office of late. It appears to be at least above 60lb based on the ghetto experiment I just did with a dumbbell, spent 9mm casing and decapp rod. I want to look into designing a simple hand crank semi automated decapper, and I want to see how much I can 3d print vs having to machine. Thanks Bob
  3. I recently got a TSO and wanted to user my mantisX with it. While I can mount it to the base of a magazine with a little picitiny rail double sided taped, I really wanted to mount on the bottom of the dust cover like I do on the railed frames my XDM's have. So I fired up CATIA to design and the 3D printer to make, and after an iteration or two, I got something that works, well at least for dry fire. The couple embedded magnets are strong, but not likely that strong.
  4. I have a new TSO that I want to use for 3 gun, and I would really like a level two type holster to ensure it stays in place when I want it to during all of the 3 gun silliness. I much prefer an enclosed kydex holster to the trigger guard retention like a race holster (assuming that those things are mutually exclusive). I like the thumbrest and do not want to give it up, but from what I've seen in my searches hood retention and thumbrest appear to not be compatible? I've got some emails out to a few of the holster mfgr's that offer a TSO level 2 to get clarification. Anyone have one or know someone who makes what I'm looking for? I'm not above modifying/reengineering something, but having not handled the hood retention systems I'm not sure if I'm looking for a unicorn. Thanks Bob
  5. I did find a way to feed mouth down, but I would have had to relocate the casefeeder stop because the transition from mouth up to mouth down would jam up if you just let it keep feeding until the whole tube was full. Might be other ways to flip the case, but they weren't evident. Feeding onto the rod but having the feeding device index out of the way to remove the case looked to be a challenge. Maybe if you removed the case from the rod before it was back fully up to the feed position? I think it's doable but is certainly a more complex system.
  6. Maybe not so much a super swage mod, but an easier way to feed it. I'd run with a spring element to flip the case from the case holder rod into a bucket for a while now. I would gather up a bunch of cases in my left hand, with the right orientation, and put them through the super swage. Not bad, but feeding was obviouly interrupted by grabbing, and an aligning, a bunch more cases. I had a thought that if I could present a single case in a way that I could easily pick it up and introduce it to the SS, that would be great. Even better if I could make something that was fed by my case feeder. A couple ideas later, and some inspiration from a someone one that casehead down vs trying to present the case mouth down, would work, I picked up some small cpvc pipe, and bent a section with a straight length to connect to the case feeder. I cut the end section in half for a about a case length to give me a "tray". I used a wally molly toggle as my case stop. Seems to work pretty well.
  7. I think i was 5 or 6 from full closed
  8. I’ll keep it in mind, it does sound good. The cmore 2moa dot is pretty precise when it’s just turned down a touch. Would be nice with a etched reticle. I’m also thinking about a Holosun with the Acss reticle. I have on on my open shotgun and I’m fond of the chevron and large outer circle
  9. Isn’t the spitfire a 1x 3moa dot?
  10. It wasn’t bad because it’s the 12” and I waited till I found it on sale. I think I got it from browells on sale + coupon
  11. Picked up the f1 receivers about 3 years ago and have been gathering parts ever since. Ballistic Advantage 14.5" premium series barrel in 223 wylde SLR adj gas block JP Titanium 3 port comp (pinned and welded) JP low mass carrier with JP bolt F1 skeltonized AR15 receiver set BA 12" edge handguard odin zulu 2.0 stock std carbine spring and buffer hyperfire hipertouch competition trigger cmore 2moa red dot magpul k2 grip 5.5 lb sans optic We’ll see how I do in limited division as I normally shoot 1-4x in Tac Ops. My guess is the rifle stage at the local match will be a challenge. 6” plates @200. Maybe I’ll just resign myself to the maximum fun on the bay stages.
  12. Show as 1299 when I just checked. Am I missing something? Hoping is was on sale for $800 and I still have a $200 coupon.
  13. Huh. Did not expect that. Certainly would make that plan a touch unworkable.
  14. The dimensional change to open it up enough to get the choke out is really small. I couldn't see an issue and if the brake is decent enough I will probably open it up myself or have someone I know open it up. Of course laziness may rear its head and I just leave the mod choke in place as it is. given the low carbon steel (from a weldability standpoint) construction you could probably merge the saiga style brake section to the Witt clamping section. I've also seen the grizzly gunworks shotgun clamp-on brakes online and they have some versions that appear more in line with the Russian style brakes, but they were far more expensive.
  15. Yeah I know a guy who can tig it for me. Just need a ti pin to go in the hole
  16. So I went to install a JP safety (which I have on every other rifle I have) with a Timney two stage trigger I had one off a prize table. Thought I would use it on a precision ar15 6.5 Grendel build. The trigger worked fine with a std safety (static checks; never fired). with the JP safety in the fire position, the hammer wouldn't release. I measured the notch on the selector barrel when in fire position and it was about .088" deep where the std one was about .112" or so. It looked like the travel of the two stage needs the space afforded by the deeper notch. wondering if anyone has had a similar experience, and if anyone thinks it's worth deepening the notch in the JP. I love how the set screw in the JP solidifies the feel of the trigger when it's on safe. Just not sure if it's worth it vs just getting another brand of ambi safety
  17. Currently thinking about a JP barrel or a ballistic advantage. I want the JP ultralight, but the BA is close and can be had for a deal, so it might be worth trying out. How does comp choice or the slight diff in length effect the accuracy? I'm looking for standard 3gun accuracy, mainly local matches out to 200-300 max. I have another longer barreled gun to use for longer distances.
  18. I don't have an answer to your question, however I did just get a Witt machine clamp on brake for my mka. Fits good though I need to open it up so I can remove the choke with it installed, something like .040-.050". I installed it in the meantime and I'm going to see how it works in reducing recoil and be sure it stays on before i put more work into it. I also need to check to be sure the clamping of the brake around the barrel will not hinder the removal of the choke. Even with all that, I'm sure I could live with just a mod choke if it the brake works well enough.
  19. Is a ti comp's life about the same as the barrel? Was considering a ti comp pinned and welded to a 14.5" barrel. Wondering, now, if that is maybe not such a hot idea. steel comp on 14.5" vs ti comp on 16"? On a pencil barrel.
  20. So I found out that Cmore gift cards are, in fact, not really gift cards in the traditional sense. They are more like discount code coupons and they cannot be combined with each other, nor can they be used with other codes/offers. Says it right on the back, which I only noticed after I was about to scratch off the code and call and order. I still called and verified, and no dice. So no Cmore 1-6 for me. I will probably pick up 2 slide rides and 2 bases. Purchased that way because I have 3 discount cards which have to be used on separate orders which does also mean I'll have to pay shipping 3 times. Kind of a bummer but I'll end up with 2 railways for $125 out of pocket, so it's still a good deal and I can make use of them. Just have to decide if its worth paying a little more for the Alum body ones and choose my dot sizes.
  21. according to the cmore website,(putting it in my cart and attempting to check out) it still appears to be good. I'll have to call them though because I have 3 gift cards and there isn't a way to input them all. So hopefully the don't suddenly recognize the website is in error or something like that. If it doesn't work, then I'll be getting something else from them that doesn't cost me anything. I don't have the money to pay retail on that scope, even at double discounted optics planet prices.
  22. its a gift card thing, and all the cards were free to me. I am looking at the normally 1400 scope at like optics planet, and 2k at cmore
  23. I know this is an old thread, but how are people feeling about this scope these days? I've got an opportunity to maybe pick a new one up for $500, and I have a couple year old Burris MTAC 1-4 i'd be upgrading from. I'm thinking it's a no brainer at that price and what I'm moving up from. thoughts? thanks Bob
  24. Is that yugo ammo generally considered gtg? The only options ive seen are from the 70's, which is spooky to me. Ive seen prvi partisan as recent manufacture, but is is more expensive than the yugo.
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