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Home built CNC Mill - Gonna make a 1911


StraightUp_OG

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Ok so I'm curious. The barrel had to be there to make the sight tracker barrel the same as the slide I think if I see it right. But if you were to just tri top a standard slide would you not just do that with the slide itself? And is a bull barrel harder to fit than a standard bushing barrel?

Yeah if you are not using a hybrid barrel then the TriTop would just be the slide indicated for the cut without the barrel.

As far as the barrel, I answered above: "Fitting Barrels is as much an art as it is a science. Everyone I fit I learn something new and one is not harder than the other to fit just different."

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Ok thanks I'm really thinking bout doing this in the future after we get a house. Do you think the AGI 1911 series would be beneficial in watching? I have being watching the MIT vids. I have never worked with a mill as stated above and sure cant afford the CNC stuff but like both set ups alot guys especially Js tools change setup. But I think after learning how to set up the material a standard mill w/ a power feed and DRO will work.

Anyone got a list of tools needed to build the 1911? The hand and mill tools? Other supplies needed like the lapping compound? Can BoMar sight cuts be made on the mill? Any place to get facing mills? What size dovetail sight cutters do you use?

Is solid column or tilt column better?

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Brownells sells a tool kit for 1911 work. You don't need everything that's in it right off the bat. And there's plenty of other stuff to buy when the need arises. Re: Bomar cuts on the mill, Freedom Gunworks had a nice video showing how he does it. Not sure where that's at. Maybe check his vendor page or youtube.

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So the serrations turned out to be really tricky. The top radius of the slide is out by several thousands and the port holes in the barrel are a tad off center which made cutting the serrations to look even a challenge. I ended up making 12 cuts instead of 11 so I could fool the eye into making everything look centered. I still might make a subtle ball cut on the top of the slide as a border but not sure yet.

serrats.jpg

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So 7 weeks start to finish and you were learning on the fly? If it wasn't for all the BATFE paperwork nonsense you could easily make a fortune with this if you wanted to, and you'd put the other custom gun makers to shame (I'm reminded of the "How long is too long to wait for a custom gun" thread that's been bouncing around here....)

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So 7 weeks start to finish and you were learning on the fly? If it wasn't for all the BATFE paperwork nonsense you could easily make a fortune with this if you wanted to, and you'd put the other custom gun makers to shame (I'm reminded of the "How long is too long to wait for a custom gun" thread that's been bouncing around here....)

It does in fact make you wonder about some of the smiths...and just how much work they have lined up to be completely filled for 2+ years.

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This is an amazing and very inspirational thread. I have been thinking long and hard about getting a mill but have been afraid to jump in because of the lack of formal training. I am very mechanically minded and adept but I last took some machine shop classes 40 years ago and it's intimidating to try to jump back in. You have inspired me to check out our local community college courses next week when they open up summer registration and jump into classes.

Thanks again so very much for taking the time to document and comment on your journey.

You are doing some bad ass work my friend

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Thanks for the feed back!

Right now I am very happy with my day job. Maybe when I retire I can alleviate some of the "wait time" of other Smith's. ;-P I don't think I will ever find as good a customer as I am. :roflol:

@ Daniel - I will take a pic of my most used tools and the descriptions. You would be amazed at what you can do with a few files, stones, dremel, vise and a sharpie!

Your question about trigger jobs, I was taught by a local gunsmith how to do triggers on 1911's. You should acquire a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's book on the 1911. It will answer 90% of your questions about tools and tuning of the 1911.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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Since I started with a Gov. 1911 frame I needed to make it a Commander so I did that tonight.

Had to cut back the rails and the frame in the spring tunnel .10, re-contour the front of the rails and trim the front of the spring tunnel to meet the slide ball cuts. For the most part this went without a hitch but next time I will change the setup for trimming the front of the frame. It is now a Commander!!

before.jpgrailcut.jpg

stunnelcut.jpgtrimst.jpg

after.jpgafter2.jpg

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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Multiple sites and discussion threads including here. The consensus from the multiple sources was remove .100 from the rails and frame. I can now confirm that the measurement is correct. :devil:

The end of the frame I lined up with the ball cuts and subjectively marked the spot I wanted to cut.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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We are back with tonights installment "As the Mill Turns".

Bobtail time! Used the mill as a drill and cut the new mainspring housing pin hole. Next to the Dremel with a cut off wheel and made the rough bobtail cut. Then just a Mill Bastard file to do the shaping. Have a little more to do but it is starting to look like a fighter!

bobtail1.jpg

fighter1.jpg

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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belt sander would make that Way easier, and smoother

A belt or disc sander would have made the first cut easier just buy a little, but trying to use that for the shaping would have been problematic. A file is the way to go as far as I am concerned . It is more refined and I am in complete control of where and how much material I remove in one pass. Then I can use a sharpie to hit the high spots. Then a dremel with cratex, 400/600/800 sandpaper sanding by hand and then a bead blast it for a factory look. For me shaping metal is an art. (Edited for poor choice of words)

The other thing is you have to have a belt/disc sander in order to use one. :devil:

Edit to add: I used the pre-cut Ed Brown Bobtail mainspring housing http://www.brownells...-prod1346.aspx. If I had done this with a stock mainspring housing then you are absolutely correct that the belt/disc sander would have been faster. I only had to trim the frame and then blend.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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No the part came checkered and so did the frame. I have checkered my fair share of front straps and it just wrecks my hands. If I can get the parts machined checkered I will to save my poor digits.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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