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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About bajadudes

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  • Birthday 10/25/1957

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  • Location
    Raleigh NC
  • Interests
    Pyrotechnics, collecting Berettas, Shooting
  • Real Name
    Max Mattia

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  1. Skip, went to your Ebay store to order a few of these and apparently the checkout process has changed. It takes you to PP, you log in and there is a confirm and pay screen with no place to enter the BER code. Any suggestions?
  2. This is good news, Nobel makes some great powders.
  3. Or the rubber seal is compromised/damaged. Still, does a visual check of the rejected brass show truly defective brass? because 10% seems mighty high. funny you mention the 38 super. On our 1050's I cut down the black cover feed tube over the case feed shuttle cock so the green feed tube adapter sits lower. Now I know right away when one of those guys tries to sneak thru. Most machines sort by diameter, we do both diameter and height but still some sneak thru. I still haven't figured out a good way to get 357 sig out of the 40 S&W. Member KTM300 here works with visual automation and is working on a pretty cool sorting set up that pops cases off a conveyor belt with jets of air. His day job works with plastic bottle manufacturing that checks 4,500 bottles an hour. sounds like sensitivity is to0 high or there is a leak. Is this a used machine?
  4. That seems high can you tell why they are being kicked out? Once I pull all the aluminum and steel out I maybe maybe reject about 1/4 5 gal bucket of unusable 9mm out of a 40 gallon drum filled with mixed 9mm/380 ( very little 380 ).......maybe at most. This is with indoor range brass. Is this the camdex loader or the case checker/prepper the one that shoots air into the case to check them?
  5. Replacement indexing pawls. They wear out, are inexpensive and a pain in the butt when you find you need one and have to order it. Part number 13705. Extra decapping pins pretty sure the spare parts kit has decapping pins but I seem to never have enough on hand. Not sure if the kit has pawls. Not a common item but if you load a lot you will need it at some point and you will need it at the worst possible time. Otherwise welcome to the club and stay safe.
  6. A colt 45 case fits nicely over the top of the primer feed rod. I fill them with lead almost to the top then slip it on and tape it. If you were to keep a slight downward pressure on that rod with your finger while cranking does it click through consistently on each stroke. I absolutely hate that Dillon switched to these plastic crap rods
  7. Boy that ammobot drive looks sweet. sure wish I could afford it. Out of all the options it does look like the best. Having said that, I had 3 PW auto drives, down to 2 since 1 went to member KTM 300 yesterday. They are tricky to set up properly but once set up are pretty nice to run. there are several key things to keep in mind. *Make sure the machine is running and indexing perfectly with a hand handle before trying to set up the auto drive. *Remove all shell casings from the machine. *Loosen the clutch to the point you can spin the arm on the motor by hand and cycle it. Not so much so that the spinning arm is floppy. Just enough to spin by hand. *Make small incremental adjustments, no more than 1/2 turn at a time on the handle side ball socket and no more than 1/16th of an inch on the motor end, stroke length adjustment. You want to reach a point where you meet a slight bump at the two extremes of cycling but you can easily pop through it with a push of the hand. Now load the shell plate and slightly tighten the clutch. Keep tightening until the machine will power through with all stations full. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. You will find that with a properly adjusted initial powered run the bottom stop on the machine will not be getting hit as it should. This is OK. loosen the front ball socket and rotate out 1/2 a turn. Try it again. repeat. you may find that when that starts to hit as it should that the indexing is not going as far as it should. Increase stroke length by 1/16". You may now have to slightly adjust the front ball socket again. by making very minute adjustment to these two points you will get it to the point where it kisses the bottom stop and indexes fully without stress and big clunks. Be very patient and go slow. walk away and do something else for a while if you start getting frustrated. You may also find that with mixed head stamp used brass it won't always kiss the bottom stop. it comes very very close but you don't hear that tick of contact. I have found that that's ok as long as for the majority of strokes it is making contact. Use lubed brass even if you are using carbide dies. Good luck and if anyone needs help please PM me and I would be glad to help.
  8. One thing that is not often mentioned is that on the 1050 the primer seating depth is adjustable which is nice if you are doing mixed head stamp brass. On the 650 it is not and it is easy to end up with primers that are not seated to the correct depth of about 3 to 6 thousandths below flush when using mixed HS. I have 3 1050's, two with auto drives...I love them. It is a superior machine by far and buying it from Brian will get you the best support out there along with dillons support.
  9. We load tens of thousands of the 9mm 125g RN no lube grove every week. There are several critial points to keep in mind with these. You will have to dial back what you normally use with plated. We load WC231 @ 4.4 grains which is about half a grain less than we load our Montana Golds. Belling on the case needs to be slightly larger to avaoid shaving the coating off at the seating die. Bullet must be oriented nicely on the case to avoid side shaving at the seater die as it reorients and straightens the bullet as it seats. NO CRIMP AT ALL. Just take the bell out. Typically you end up with .379 at the mouth of the case. Any more and the side coating will strip off as the bullet is fired from the case. They are a bit more of a PITA to load but we and our customers love them. We still only use Montana Gold for our premium line but these blues when loaded properly are very accurate and much cleaner than bare lead. Plus Nathan and his Dad are both police officers and fellow competitive shooters doing this on the side so they deserve all the support we can give them.
  10. Freakshow is 100% spot on, 90% of our business is competitive shooters that value quality over price. We do make one line of economy polymer bullet ammo that is mostly sold to local ranges. You have to find your niche. You can't compete on price with the big guys. For instance Chris Tilley buys almost 20K worth a month from us and will be shooting our 38 Supercomp in this years world shoot. We also supply the Venezuelan national IDPA team when they are in the USA. We load on 3 1050's, two with auto-drives that we usually only use when we do runs of the poly stuff. When we are doing a run for a shooter it's hand cranked. Liability insurance for the FFL-06 up to 1 million rounds & the building for fire and theft runs us $5,500 a year.
  11. How many grains did you try on the 40 and what type of projectiles? Long or short barrel? Thanks for taking the time to report your experience. The 40 was a Glock 35 with Berry's 180's. I think I tried both round shoulder and flats. I don't remember the exact load, but even when we loaded them light for steel, they still felt like a major PF ammo! I wouldn't recommend it for 40 at all, there are WAY too many powders better suited for the job. Thank you I really appreciate the input.
  12. How many grains did you try on the 40 and what type of projectiles? Long or short barrel? Thanks for taking the time to report your experience.
  13. Thank you Thank you, we are considering purchasing 550 kilos of this powder and some other Maxam powders and appreciate the input. I will be driving out to the midwest sometime in the next few weeks to pick up a 55 kilo sample keg so any load data from forum members is appreciated.
  14. Thank you so much for your report. Can you comment on felt recoil and cleanliness? Did you see any signs of over pressure at all?
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