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Home built CNC Mill - Gonna make a 1911


StraightUp_OG

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I'm digging this. But I'm still so iffy bout a mill. I can't do CNC one cause of funds and two I don't know anything bout it. Plus still having to learn how to set up pieces in the vise and all that and which end to measure from and how to set depth of cuts and all that. Sheesh it's scary. Which tools to buy other than hand tools I have looked at catalogs and there are so many diff types of end mills and sizes and so many diff things one needs it seems.

BUT IM THINKIG OF TRYING A HAND TOOL BUILD. Fitting the slide/frame with files and elbow grease and the barrel then send it for cuts and chambering.

I wanna get the Jerry K books and the AGI videos and go through those before I do anything I think.

I think if I was just shown how and explained in detail how to do each step on a mill I could do it and by hand as well.

Maybe one of y'all needs to make a complete video and instruction book!!! Lol

The only way you are going to learn is to do so ... GO FOR IT!

Don't let the tools daunt you. Wait for the need and then look for the tool to do the job, it is a slow acquisition process. Do the hand build but have patience and GO SLOW. When working with files you need to make sure you are cutting the material lightly and evenly. This is where the sharpie comes in.

Absorb as much info from credible sources as you can and ask this place all your questions I know someone will have the answer.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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I didn't notice it until I started trying to eliminate the tool mark I was getting when I ramped or stepped down during a cut, I'd get a mark at the beginning and end of the ramp. I thought it was backlash, but I adjusted all backlash out and it was still there. I decided to retram the mill and noticed it with a DTI in an Indicol arm mounted on the spindle. with the DTI about 6 inches to the side, I could see it happen.

I guess I shouldn't complain... Underneath the ballscrews and steppers, it's still just a $400 Chinese mill :)

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^^^^ First operation is cutting the slot for the barrel ramp, most frames are not cut. 2nd operation is cutting the slot for the lower barrel lugs of a Para/Lisner style barrel.

Straight up - you need this setup!

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Did some hood fitting on mine. Indicating...

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Cutting

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Finishing with a stone.

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Blued up looking for interference.

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Using the lathe to put a taper on the hog of a barrel that is a KKM Bull. This fixes the mid barrel interference.

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I find the more upper lug engagement you create you need to continue to remove from the back of the hood.

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Well I am going for the weld up as the fix to my 'Oops".

I found a highly recommend specialty welder with firearm experience. Dropped it off this morning and should have it back on Thursday. I will post pics of the weld and the re-shaping of the slide.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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Well I am going for the weld up as the fix to my 'Oops".

I found a highly recommend specialty welder with firearm experience. Dropped it off this morning and should have it back on Thursday. I will post pics of the weld and the re-shaping of the slide.

Did you look at a high power type cut? Not sure how deep the opps was, but I like that type cut.

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During this intermission while we wait for the welder to finish up I thought I would post a preview of what's on deck!

I'm waiting on a 6" hybrid from Schuemann and have 3 frames on the way. One 1911 and 2 2011's a STI SDC and PT LDC. The frame in the pic is a Phoenix Trinity. Depending on what frame shows up first I may do the open gun next if not the PT Sight tracker is up.

Did I mention I have an addiction... :roflol:

fun.jpg

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Gotcha. So with a bushing you turn the OD of bushing down to fit the ID of the slide. With a Bull you lightly remove material from the slide a the muzzle making sure the barrel is not springing but maintaining correct 1 degree lockup at the muzzle. Springing is when you push the barrel up into the lugs to the lockup point and if it springs back unlocking itself then it is not yet fit correctly. You do this test with just the slide and barrel off the frame.

Some will use a lathe to turn the barrel like jid2 up above. I don't have a lathe but have access to one. But if it is just a few thousands that needs to be removed I find it easier to just remove a little from the slide with cratex or a really fine sanding drum on my dremel. I go SLOW and measure after each pass so I don't remove to much material. But most of the Schuemanns I have fit did not require this step and fit just fine at the muzzle.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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Did I mention I have an addiction... :roflol:

I bet you told your wife it would be cheaper if you built your own guns, didn't you?

P.S. I bet a lot of gunsmith's start out having to "whore" themselves out to pay for their own personal addictions.

Edited by blind bat
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I don't know what you're using for a pendant, but I got one with an MPG from VistaCNC... This thing makes manual ops a breeze. I mention it because there is no chance of accidently hitting the wrong button (you can still have a brain fart and select the wrong axis or or turn the MPG the wrong way, but you can do that on a manual mill too :) )

With this pendant, it turns out that my anxiety over converting to CNC and not having a manual mill were unfounded.. Even if I never wrote a line of G-Code, I'd now prefer a CNC mill with an MPG pendant over a manual mill, no questions asked. It's like having power drives on all axis and precise control over all moves. If I want to move .005, I just turn the MPG 5 clicks and don't even have to think about dealing with backlash.

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I have yet to find one like that for LinuxCNC. There is a hack for LCNC that lets you take a game controller (in my case a PS3 controller) and turn it into a pendant. I have created different profiles now with some buttons and axis's disabled so I can't bump it and have it make unwanted chips.

Edited by StraightUp_OG
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