bajadudes

Skip, went to your Ebay store to order a few of these and apparently the checkout process has changed. It takes you to PP, you log in and there is a confirm and pay screen with no place to enter the BER code. Any suggestions?

This is good news, Nobel makes some great powders.

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Or the rubber seal is compromised/damaged. Still, does a visual check of the rejected brass show truly defective brass? because 10% seems mighty high. funny you mention the 38 super. On our 1050's I cut down the black cover feed tube over the case feed shuttle cock so the green feed tube adapter sits lower. Now I know right away when one of those guys tries to sneak thru. Most machines sort by diameter, we do both diameter and height but still some sneak thru. I still haven't figured out a good way to get 357 sig out of the 40 S&W. Member KTM300 here works with visual automation and is working on a pretty cool sorting set up that pops cases off a conveyor belt with jets of air. His day job works with plastic bottle manufacturing that checks 4,500 bottles an hour. sounds like sensitivity is to0 high or there is a leak. Is this a used machine?

That seems high can you tell why they are being kicked out? Once I pull all the aluminum and steel out I maybe maybe reject about 1/4 5 gal bucket of unusable 9mm out of a 40 gallon drum filled with mixed 9mm/380 ( very little 380 ).......maybe at most. This is with indoor range brass. Is this the camdex loader or the case checker/prepper the one that shoots air into the case to check them?

Replacement indexing pawls. They wear out, are inexpensive and a pain in the butt when you find you need one and have to order it. Part number 13705. Extra decapping pins pretty sure the spare parts kit has decapping pins but I seem to never have enough on hand. Not sure if the kit has pawls. Not a common item but if you load a lot you will need it at some point and you will need it at the worst possible time. Otherwise welcome to the club and stay safe.

A colt 45 case fits nicely over the top of the primer feed rod. I fill them with lead almost to the top then slip it on and tape it. If you were to keep a slight downward pressure on that rod with your finger while cranking does it click through consistently on each stroke. I absolutely hate that Dillon switched to these plastic crap rods

Boy that ammobot drive looks sweet. sure wish I could afford it. Out of all the options it does look like the best. Having said that, I had 3 PW auto drives, down to 2 since 1 went to member KTM 300 yesterday. They are tricky to set up properly but once set up are pretty nice to run. there are several key things to keep in mind. *Make sure the machine is running and indexing perfectly with a hand handle before trying to set up the auto drive. *Remove all shell casings from the machine. *Loosen the clutch to the point you can spin the arm on the motor by hand and cycle it. Not so much so that the spinning arm is floppy. Just enough to spin by hand. *Make small incremental adjustments, no more than 1/2 turn at a time on the handle side ball socket and no more than 1/16th of an inch on the motor end, stroke length adjustment. You want to reach a point where you meet a slight bump at the two extremes of cycling but you can easily pop through it with a push of the hand. Now load the shell plate and slightly tighten the clutch. Keep tightening until the machine will power through with all stations full. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. You will find that with a properly adjusted initial powered run the bottom stop on the machine will not be getting hit as it should. This is OK. loosen the front ball socket and rotate out 1/2 a turn. Try it again. repeat. you may find that when that starts to hit as it should that the indexing is not going as far as it should. Increase stroke length by 1/16". You may now have to slightly adjust the front ball socket again. by making very minute adjustment to these two points you will get it to the point where it kisses the bottom stop and indexes fully without stress and big clunks. Be very patient and go slow. walk away and do something else for a while if you start getting frustrated. You may also find that with mixed head stamp used brass it won't always kiss the bottom stop. it comes very very close but you don't hear that tick of contact. I have found that that's ok as long as for the majority of strokes it is making contact. Use lubed brass even if you are using carbide dies. Good luck and if anyone needs help please PM me and I would be glad to help.

One thing that is not often mentioned is that on the 1050 the primer seating depth is adjustable which is nice if you are doing mixed head stamp brass. On the 650 it is not and it is easy to end up with primers that are not seated to the correct depth of about 3 to 6 thousandths below flush when using mixed HS. I have 3 1050's, two with auto drives...I love them. It is a superior machine by far and buying it from Brian will get you the best support out there along with dillons support.

We load tens of thousands of the 9mm 125g RN no lube grove every week. There are several critial points to keep in mind with these. You will have to dial back what you normally use with plated. We load WC231 @ 4.4 grains which is about half a grain less than we load our Montana Golds. Belling on the case needs to be slightly larger to avaoid shaving the coating off at the seating die. Bullet must be oriented nicely on the case to avoid side shaving at the seater die as it reorients and straightens the bullet as it seats. NO CRIMP AT ALL. Just take the bell out. Typically you end up with .379 at the mouth of the case. Any more and the side coating will strip off as the bullet is fired from the case. They are a bit more of a PITA to load but we and our customers love them. We still only use Montana Gold for our premium line but these blues when loaded properly are very accurate and much cleaner than bare lead. Plus Nathan and his Dad are both police officers and fellow competitive shooters doing this on the side so they deserve all the support we can give them.

Freakshow is 100% spot on, 90% of our business is competitive shooters that value quality over price. We do make one line of economy polymer bullet ammo that is mostly sold to local ranges. You have to find your niche. You can't compete on price with the big guys. For instance Chris Tilley buys almost 20K worth a month from us and will be shooting our 38 Supercomp in this years world shoot. We also supply the Venezuelan national IDPA team when they are in the USA. We load on 3 1050's, two with auto-drives that we usually only use when we do runs of the poly stuff. When we are doing a run for a shooter it's hand cranked. Liability insurance for the FFL-06 up to 1 million rounds & the building for fire and theft runs us $5,500 a year.

How many grains did you try on the 40 and what type of projectiles? Long or short barrel? Thanks for taking the time to report your experience. The 40 was a Glock 35 with Berry's 180's. I think I tried both round shoulder and flats. I don't remember the exact load, but even when we loaded them light for steel, they still felt like a major PF ammo! I wouldn't recommend it for 40 at all, there are WAY too many powders better suited for the job. Thank you I really appreciate the input.

How many grains did you try on the 40 and what type of projectiles? Long or short barrel? Thanks for taking the time to report your experience.

Thank you Thank you, we are considering purchasing 550 kilos of this powder and some other Maxam powders and appreciate the input. I will be driving out to the midwest sometime in the next few weeks to pick up a 55 kilo sample keg so any load data from forum members is appreciated.

Thank you so much for your report. Can you comment on felt recoil and cleanliness? Did you see any signs of over pressure at all?

The number of rounds you can actually make is ruled by the same mysterious force that causes one sock of a pair to disappear. It's what turns a perfect plan on paper into a head scratching WTF. One day we will discover this force and learn how put it to work for the good of all.

Push it up from below. I use the long end of a hex key

Don't forget the other big USA player. Western Powders out of MT With an FFL-06 you used to be able to get 70 pound kegs of WC 231 from Saint Marks and 100 pound kegs from Western. No problem and a decent price. I have not seen that in a little over 2.5 years and from what I hear it ain't coming back soon.

Can you give us a little more info? What are they being called?, Who is making them? Where did you purchase them? How much did you pay?

Touche.... :D

I want to point out that as a capitalist I don't only seek to make money based on supply and demand. I/we also have a moral obligation to do what I/we can for the shooting community during shortages. Right now, I have a 70 pound keg of Winchester 231 up for sale on GB at the insane price of about $50 a pound. Split up into 4 lb jugs. I decided to part with 1 keg out of the original 19 kegs I bought a few months before the last Presidential election. I have been watching the market in powders with great interest since then and this looked like a good time to do it. Before this, over the last year I have sold almost 1000 lbs of hard to find powders out of our operating stash at or below PV prices to fellow shooters on various gun forums who were having a hard time. 3 of those 19 drums went towards that. Our ammunition products are quality products offered at just about Walmart prices. Affordable and accurate. I want to keep them affordable and to do that we desperately need to upgrade equipment and processes. Selling this one keg to the people that are willing to pay top dollar will help us do this. Its a gamble. Because even as a small manufacturer I have never see or been able to buy another one again. I am down to my last 9 after this one sells. I come to you for absolution from this sin.

I just checked all 3 of mine and they all have that slight movement when the tool head is in the up position. They all have well over 100,000 rounds each through them however. I have never checked on a new out of the box machine so I am not sure if there is no wobble/runout on a new one. They still all run with good specs. Anywhere from +/-004 to .006 variance on OAL depending on caliber and brass.

On the opposite side of that shaft there is an Allen screw. It sometimes works itself loose. I would check that first.

Aside from all the legal mumbo jumbo The OP, I think, was just looking for advice on mimicking SD loads for practice. I think that's fine and I also think that for actual carry use the real stuff from a big name SD manufacturer. Even I will not make and sell SD ammo advertised for SD So getting to the OP. I did the below 2-3 years ago I forget. Reloading Experiments in 40 S&W with Speer Gold Dot 180's In looking at the insane prices they charge for gold dot I thought there is no way I want to pay that much. I picked me up 300 Speer Gold Dot projectiles in 40 S&W180gr and 300 in 9MM 124 gr and set myself down to start playing with the 40 1st. To establish a bench mark I shot 2 rounds of the factory Gold Dot 180gr out of my inox Vertec 96 and observed the following: A moderate fireball and 1116 fps on the 1st shot and 1131 fps. on the second shot. Factory specs say 1025fps from a 4" barrel. The round was pretty snappy but manageable I have 3 powders available to me right now in large quantities. Clays, Power Pistol and VV 3N38. POWER PISTOL Power pistol loading data indicates that a 40 S&W 180gr SPGD JHP with a 1.12 OAL has a max powder load of 7.2gr and an estimated velocity of 1,013 fps. from a 4" barrel. I shot 7 rounds of 7.2 gr. with an OAL of 1.145 (+-.03) and achieved a min velocity of 1039 fps. a max velocity of 1082 and an average velocity of 1060.7 fps. Not bad but the fireball was substantial and the recoil was fairly hard. Since my OAL is longer than standard I can probably push it a bit more and get in the 1100 range consistently and safely. Not sure if I want to try since I think for mimicking defensive situation it would be better to minimize the fireball. CLAYS Clays is kinda dicey and spiky so I am not willing to push it but it is nice since there is barely any flash and it's clean. I had it and so why not try it. Clays loading data indicates that a 40 S&W 180gr Hornady XTP with a 1.125 OAL has a max pwder load of 3.5gr and estimated velocity of 847fps. from a 4" barrel. I shot 5 rounds of 3.5 gr. with an OAL of 1.145 (+-.03) and achieved a min velocity of 784.4 fps. a max velocity of 809.3 and an average velocity of 797.56 fps. No noticeable fireball and the recoil was soft and very manageable. It would be tempting to try upping this charge but given Clays well deserved reputation and that I am shooting out of a stock Beretta I don't think I want to be the bang test dummy. VV 3N38 I could find no loading data for this powder with any 180gr bullet. All data for a 180gr JHP had 3n37 listed. It noted a powder load of 5.9gr @ 1.126 OAL with 994 fps, and a max powder load of 6.2gr for an estimated velocity of 1078 fps. Oddly I did notice that they listed a 200gr TMJ bullet with VV 3n38 powder. It noted a powder load of 6.9gr for 997 fps with a max load of 7.3gr for 1038 fps. That seemed strange to me since n38 is a slower powder than the n37. Why would they not list VV 3N38 as suitable for a 180gr bullet? In any case I decided to try my VV3N38 powder at a powder load of 7.2 grains w/OAL of 1.145 (+-4) and observed the following velocities in 4 shots; min 792, max 854, average 828,17 fps No discernible fireball and very soft recoil. VV 3n38 is a great clean relatively slow powder so I spoke with someone who has shot hundreds of thousands of rounds with this powder in many combinations. He was as surprised as I was at the slow speed. We both agreed to up the charge by 2 grains to 9.2. We think we can get it safely up to about 1100 fps with minimum fireball and better recoil than the Power Pistol. Subsequent test: VV3N38, 180g SGD, OAL 1.147 8.5g FPS: 1099,1132,1075, 1091, 1079, Low to no flash better recoil than PP 9g FPS: 1166, 1163,1133,1155,1149 Low to no flash Then I got some HS-6, 180 SGD OAL 1.121 7g FPS: 1217,1219,1194,1224,1226 Low to no flash nice and manageable recoil tad better than with VV 6.8 FPS: 1177,1170,1176,1150,1141,1178 same observation I think the HS-6 with the golddot 180g JHP would be my choice for building a round that is closest to the performance of a factory 180g SGDJHP Anyway just my observations when I explored the topic a few years ago.

My wife of 20 years nearly divorced me when I bought my 2nd one.