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Do open guns ever run.....


Paul-the new guy

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Troubleshooting anything must be done ONE step at a time. I noticed that you said "...I am going to go longer and am switching to 3N38"

The AND is where you run into problems. I'm a troubleshooter for a living, and an open shooter. Please do yourself a favor and only change one thing at a time. Give it at least 5 malfunctions while reviewing the situation, and then change ONE more thing. You might be dealing with 2 problems and each could be a different fix. You might be dealing with only 1 problem, but if you chang more than one thing at a time you could be creating other problems at the same time.

It requires patience... maybe a notebook, and ONE gunsmith, but eventually you'll iron it out and then be able to enjoy your new investment. I've been shooting open for 8 months now, and I did have some growing pains, but carefully changing 1 thing at a time and in a month or two my gun was purring like a kitten.

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I've bought at least 5 used open guns all ran. The thing is you have to do your part to make it run.

1. Most issues I see are ammo related. I get a real kick out of a GM that does not drop check his ammo then seems shocked when the gun pukes in a stage. Daaah. The magic OAL according to Benny Hill is 1.235 for 38S. I've used N105, AA#7 as well as a hand full of others, the guns and yes I have multiple all ran fine. I've only heard of growning ammo with N015 with 115gr bullets and the temp outside was 115. I have run OAL out to 1.270 in 38S and it ran just as good as 1.235 ymmv,

2. Mags. If there is a malfunction the mag that was in the gun at the time is put aside until the issues is determined, the offending round is also put in a special pocket of the range bag, once back at the ranch the round is drop check, measured with the caliper and examined for any reason it might of caused an issue. If the round was good in all ways then the mag is checked against a known working mag for measurements follower angle etc.

3. Recoil springs, in an open gun they have a short life, my recent IMSI springs have only lasted about 1,000 rounds, yes incredible as that sounds they just get limp real fast, so I went back to Wolf Variable springs which last about 5k rounds. If everything else seems right put a 10# wolf spring in it and try that.

I learned all I know about trouble shooting open guns from racing stock cars. In a stock car you change one thing, like increase the right front spring to 700#, then you go out and take a couple hot laps on the timer if you are faster you leave the spring in if slower you put the 650# per inch spring back in, then try something else.

Light Strikes, been there done that, never again Dawson Extended firing pin, also make sure that you have a std firing pin spring not a high power spring, a lighter spring helps with ignition. A 17# hammer spring will set off even the hardest primer known to man the MagTech rifle with the D on it, now a 15# is where you start running into issues, so use ur head here try running Win Small Pistol Magnum primers, even my CZ with an 8.5# main spring will set these off and according to the guy that sells the springs it won't, go figure.

Good Luck with it.

When I buy a used gun I change nothing, take it out and shoot it, so far its been all good. When I sell one I always make sure to have one good running mag with it and 500 rounds of my known good ammo. I've had the call the gun don't run. I ask did you use my ammo and the mag, yes, it ran with that, but I changed this and that and did this and that and now it don't run. Then put it back like it was and quit "fing" with it.

Edited by CocoBolo
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Getting a reputable gunsmith doesn't mean it can't be a local gunsmith. Yes, I agree that all the big names are great and will build a great pistol. However, we have a local gunsmith in our area that builds great guns and stands behind his work. Several of us have many of his builds in our safes and I (and others) have never had any problems with his work. He is a shooter himself (and pretty good too) and is a master machinist by trade. Don't overlook a possible local gunsmith if you can talk to some of the customers and see some of their work.

Of course there are the ones that you shouldn't go to either. I remember going into a gunsmith shop one time asking about doing a trigger job on my 2011 pistol. His response was, "is that a race gun?" I just walked out.

+1

I am very lucky to have a very good gunsmith shoot at my local range. I bought one of the high dollar race guns from a popular builder and was disappointed in the quality. Waited 9 months for the gun only to sell it for a loss within a month. Local builder put together my new gun in less than a month and it is just what I wanted. Only wish I had known that he was a gun smith before placing my order elsewhere the first time!

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I've bought at least 5 used open guns all ran. The thing is you have to do your part to make it run.

1. Most issues I see are ammo related. I get a real kick out of a GM that does not drop check his ammo then seems shocked when the gun pukes in a stage. Daaah. The magic OAL according to Benny Hill is 1.235 for 38S. I've used N105, AA#7 as well as a hand full of others, the guns and yes I have multiple all ran fine. I've only heard of growning ammo with N015 with 115gr bullets and the temp outside was 115. I have run OAL out to 1.270 in 38S and it ran just as good as 1.235 ymmv,

2. Mags. If there is a malfunction the mag that was in the gun at the time is put aside until the issues is determined, the offending round is also put in a special pocket of the range bag, once back at the ranch the round is drop check, measured with the caliper and examined for any reason it might of caused an issue. If the round was good in all ways then the mag is checked against a known working mag for measurements follower angle etc.

3. Recoil springs, in an open gun they have a short life, my recent IMSI springs have only lasted about 1,000 rounds, yes incredible as that sounds they just get limp real fast, so I went back to Wolf Variable springs which last about 5k rounds. If everything else seems right put a 10# wolf spring in it and try that.

I learned all I know about trouble shooting open guns from racing stock cars. In a stock car you change one thing, like increase the right front spring to 700#, then you go out and take a couple hot laps on the timer if you are faster you leave the spring in if slower you put the 650# per inch spring back in, then try something else.

Light Strikes, been there done that, never again Dawson Extended firing pin, also make sure that you have a std firing pin spring not a high power spring, a lighter spring helps with ignition. A 17# hammer spring will set off even the hardest primer known to man the MagTech rifle with the D on it, now a 15# is where you start running into issues, so use ur head here try running Win Small Pistol Magnum primers, even my CZ with an 8.5# main spring will set these off and according to the guy that sells the springs it won't, go figure.

Good Luck with it.

When I buy a used gun I change nothing, take it out and shoot it, so far its been all good. When I sell one I always make sure to have one good running mag with it and 500 rounds of my known good ammo. I've had the call the gun don't run. I ask did you use my ammo and the mag, yes, it ran with that, but I changed this and that and did this and that and now it don't run. Then put it back like it was and quit "fing" with it.

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I put a Limcat XL firing pin in already. The recoil spring is a Wolff 10#. I have a bunch of Sprinco springs but my smith said they suck. I will probably be able to get a more even OAL with the 3N38 or so I am hoping. The extended ejector is being tuned and installed and tuned this week. Once we adjusted the over travel screw the light strike issue went away. Its getting better... :cheers:

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Maybe I'm just lucky but my 38SC & 9mm open guns run perfectly. The only time I have any issues is when I limp wrist either gun. Mags use Grams guts. Use same mags for 38SC or 9mm, only thing I do is remove or install the mag spacer. I do run both guns wet.

Edited by 40S&W
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With the right recoil spring and a properly tuned extractor and ejector any Open gun will run. The 9mm's must have a lot of extractor tension to hold the barss firmly against the breech face until the spent round hits the ejector.

Hello: I would not agree with you. It must have the right amount of tension even on the light side. My open 9mm just ran the nationals with no problems at all.The only problem was the guy behind he gun :roflol: Thanks, Eric
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