40S&W

I sight-in from the bench at 25 yds. Then shoot off hand at 25 & 15 yds. and make the necessary corrections if needed for my style of shooting (good or bad). Works for me.

Looking for a major load (175 - 180 PF) using the following components. 124gr. MG CMJ HS-6 Winchester SPP Custom 5" with EGW 7 Port Comp ((4) top (2) each side. Thanks,

If you want to use your titegroup powder then try this load. This is what I shoot for steel. This is out of a 5" barrel. 4.1 gr. TG 124 gr. MG CMJ 1.140 OAL Federal SPP 139 PF

If you want to make sure the complete stainless finish matches, get the gun bead blasted to a satin finish.

Might want a very good gunsmith to replace & refit your barrel link. A bad barrel link will give you problems with accuracy.

Shooters Connection. They are a Forum Dealer and their prices are as good as anyone's.

I use Winchester Small Pistol Primers. Never had an issue with my 2011 38SC.

I use the brass brush in a Dremel Tool. Use slow speed and the comp cleans up just fine. I do this once a year in the off season. Just don't get carried away with the speed & pressure. To date no problems. Prior to shooting, I apply some Dillion Case Lube and it seems to keep buildup soft. I clean my guns after every time out shooting.

Might want to consider a Springfield 1911 Loaded Target 9mm in stainless. I have one for just IDPA ESP. All I did was have a trigger job done, Dawson 1911 Gap magwell, and VZ grips. Also bought 5 Tripp 10 round mags. Also had the slide & frame bead blasted to matte finish. Got 7K+ rounds down the tube with only 1 FTE and that was shooter caused. It's very accurate with 115 gr. bullets, off-hand 1.5" groups at 25 yds. Enough accuracy for IDPA & me. It's not something you would buy if your not going to use the gun and keep it.

Try running some round point ammo.

I have all my open, limited, L-10, and SS setup so they do not lock the slide open. I count my shots and plan stages accordingly. If their is a problem, it is the shooter and execution.

I have 2 open, 1 single stack, 1 limited all custom & satin hard chromed. I feel the guns stay tighter because they are hard chromed. If you don't abuse your hard chromed guns then the finish lasts much long than other finishes and looks much better. If the gun does get some scratching & idiot marks you can have it bead blasted and the finish looks new.

Need to balance your weight up front and in the grip. Otherwise. if it's muzzle heavy you will have a tendency to take more time sighting, because the muzzle will naturally point down.

I have a Springfield 9mm stainless target, use Tripp 10 round 9mm mags. Only had one FTE in over 7,300+ rounds. Also had a stock Springfield 9mm barrel re-bored for 38 Super. Never had a problem shooting 38SC with Tripp mags. Never tried shooting super. My 9mm reloads have a 1.140 OAL. My 38SC reloads have a 1.222 OAL. Use 115gr or 124gr MG CMJ round nose bullets. Never hollow points. The Springfield is out of the box, other than a green fiber optic 0.125, trigger job, and VZ grips. I just installed a Dawson Precision 1911 Alum. gap magwell with flat mainspring housing, have not shot since. Only use this gun in 9mm for shooting IDPA which is seldom. Gun is very accurate in either caliber. From a bench at 25 yds. 1.1" or less 5 shot groups consistently. On a bench at 50 yds.1.5" or less 5 shot groups consistently. Gun was purchased 5 years ago.

Canuk The 38SC is more accurate with the 115gr MG CMJ and with the extra weight of the EGW stainless 7 port comp (3 top and two on each side) less muzzle rise. I shoot 124gr MG CMJ in the 9mm, less muzzle flip & more straight back recoil, comp is two ports. My guns are a little heavy and I use an Aimpoint 7MOA SMC (discontinued) on the 38SC and a Tasco PDP5 4 dot size scope (discontinued) with a 45mm objective lens on the 9mm. Never loose the dot on either scope. In my case and my age a little slower transition is made up with the dot always being where it needs to be. Over the years I have been able to pick up spare scopes for each that I use. Always good to have an extra scope for each gun. Also use the Tasco PDP5 on my M&P 15-22 & S&W Mod 41 for steel competitions. I'm sure most people would not agree with scope choices, but they work for me. As far as preference I like the 38SC better, but with the cost of 38SC brass and the lack of availability (used or new) I shoot the 9mm more because of loss brass. Back in the old days there was no problem getting once fired 38SC brass since just about everyone shot 38SC. Today it's another story. One good thing about 38SC is the myriad loads and being able to load it 10+ times. If I could afford to lose 38SC brass (which I can't) that is all I would shoot. So basically, 9mm is a lot cheaper to shoot (brass costs). If I had to do it all over I'd still have a 38SC & 9mm Open guns.