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What's your fav Lube?


Sleepswithdogs

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I truly believe that gun oils are the snake oils of the past.

if a synthetic oil can run a race car around a track it should run my gun for 2 min of shooting on match day

I've had some experience with synthetic motor oils. Found that they are so slick that if there is a small oil leak with a conventional oil, there will be a big leak with synthetic.

Found that they protect so well that even when synthetic is changed, if one forgets to put the new oil in, the motor will be protected for at least a couple of minutes. :wub:

Have seen photos of main/rod bearings run exclusively on synthetic and they look almost new.

And I have always heard it is not good to run synthetic in a fresh built motor, that there can be problems seating rings.

I am convinced synthetic motor oils can significantly reduce wear, and at 6-10 bucks a quart, the price is fair, especially when used as gun oil. But compared to Frog Lube, it's true, they don't smell minty fresh. :surprise:

Tar

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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About 5 years ago, saw a sales rep demo popular brands by placing a load on a lubed bearing, until it seized. I watched as he knocked my favorites down one by one, until he applied FP-10 without fail.

I picked up a bottle of FP-10 that day, and continue to use the brand on internals- a little bit goes a long way. Usually give a quick wipe down of Breakfree LP on the outside, as it's a better rust preventative than FP-10 IMO.

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For the rifles, pistols and shotguns . . . . Whatever I find for laying around here in the shop as I load up my range bag late every Friday night. (primarily gun butter left out by the assembly crew.)

For the shooter. . . "Midelton Very Rare"

"Moderation, . . . .Yes sir, I do believe in moderation, after the first 5-6 it's appt to degenerate in to just drinking.

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I truly believe that gun oils are the snake oils of the past.

if a synthetic oil can run a race car around a track it should run my gun for 2 min of shooting on match day

I've had some experience with synthetic motor oils. Found that they are so slick that if there is a small oil leak with a conventional oil, there will be a big leak with synthetic.

Tar

I read somewhere, and I don't think it was covered here but another poster did say they add ATF to there synthetic. I am under the impression that the ATF adds a "bonding" component to keep the lube in place.

Jay

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Many people mix ATF with motor oil for use in a firearm. My understanding is AFT if basically hydraulic fluid and among other properties, provides some reduction of friction on the trans discs. If it were too slick, it would prevent good lockup of the discs and loose HP.

Motor oil is designed to prevent metal on metal contact there by reducing wear and friction at the rod, mains, cam lobes, lifters, etc., which is especially important during cold starts with zero oil pressure. This condition I would think, most closely resembles the conditions in a firearm.

It seems to me that the properties and use of these two fluids is quite different and I'm not convinced that combining them enhances the properties of either. However, this is an opinion formed by moderate reading only, and I am very poor at overhauling any kind of trans, but pretty alright with building motors having built some good ones.

I've looked at a bunch of oil tests including 4 ball wear tests, etc., but never saw one that tested the combination of ATF and synthetic motor oil, so I have never seen any hard data on the combination. The fact alone that there are no auto enthusiasts that I could find doing testing combining ATF and motor oil tells me something, and I would never go mixing 50/50 synthetic oil and ATF and put it in my truck thinking I was helping the motor.

ATF is used in making Ed's Red bore cleaner. This makes me think that the addition of ATF to gun lube is probably about making a gun easier to clean, more than it is about reducing wear.

Tar

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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My new favorite is Beaver Lube. Just cause of the name.

Must resist.... Stop now...... Too easy.....

I don't remember if it was in my shooter's bag or I got it off the prize table (cause the only reason I actually shoot is for free lube), but they even make Beaver Lube in a little bitty bottle. They call it the G Spot, I guess because it's just enough for one gun?

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My new favorite is Beaver Lube. Just cause of the name.

Must resist.... Stop now...... Too easy.....

Everybody chant along....

DO IT!!! DO IT!!! DO IT!!!

The new and "improved" Stilhead is leaving BEnos rather boring, sterile, devoid of character and colour. Even if I were on the receiving end of your wit, I probably have been(too dumb to know), it is more educational and worth it. :surprise: I don't see why this forum is supposed to be any different then the many characters (including myself) I shoot with at the range every week.

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I do not have a favorite brand lube. Never saw a gun choke due to the brand of lube used. I do prefer synthetic lube. I use oil for some things and grease for others. if I had to choose one it would be oil. I have been using Militec 2500 and tw25b for some time now and it works. But I got it for free. Also been using the red Brownells stuff. works good. I also have a bottle of Phil woods tenacious oil from my biking days. Works like slide glide......Beaver lube? I GOTTA get me some of that....

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Picked up some Castrol, 5-20 Edge with Titanium. I have run Castrol in my gas powered machines for many years, 2 and 4 wheel, and found it superior to any other oil I ever tried. Did some experimenting with a very popular synthetic, but had problems with rod knock in two different engines. Rod knock that immediately went away and never returned when I switched off that oil to Castrol.

Also using some "Green Grease" on the trigger, etc. The 4 ball wear tests I saw on it were very impressive.

Frog Lube, perhaps I'll try minty fresh in a bit. :surprise:

Tar

Edited by Sleepswithdogs
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For pistols, ARs and Shotguns, I use Royal Purple 85w90 gear oil. It does not get thick in cold weather and doesn't cook off from heat. For triggers/sears, a little moly grease. M1 and M1A rifles get white lithium grease on the receivers/bolt/op rod.

I have thought about applying Nozzle Clean (spray for MIG welder nozzles)to a clean crown and comp to see if it will help guard against carbon build up, but have not tried it yet.

Hurley

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For guns, Mobil 1, do not remember the weight off-hand. Cheaper and as effective as dedicated gun lubes, even taking into account I used up more accidently dumping it over on the bench than onto guns. Oops.

I carry some manner of Breakfree CLP to matches as a field expedient product and there is nothing wrong with it, except it is expensive and not really ideal for anything.

I found out the hard way that using Slide Glide means altering its applied thickness based on outdoor temperatures, or the gun will quit running. So, no more Slide Glide for me, except for those few times I use grease.

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  • 1 month later...

Slipstream, from Crusader Weaponry. Also available as a grease, very useful for M1 Garands and M1A/M14s.

Ditto. I use a mix of both. Oil for the slide, bushing, and lighter wear parts. And the grease for the barrel lugs, link.

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I have used Mobil 1 at the advice of Kurt Miller since I started. This whole frog boob and FireClean craze have me intrigued though as they promise easier cleaning of carbon buildup. Since I hate cleaning and love shooting its worth a try.

I have two bottles of FireClean sitting on the shelf. Picked up some of that stuff Bryan Ray style at a match for free yo! Gotta love it when a company sponsors the matches too.

Edited by Jesse Tischauser
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