Tyro Shooter

At one time, USPSA / John Amadon had issued a letter stating that the Glockworx / ZEV Technologies "Standard trigger" was Deemed "Production legal, Yes at that time the trigger pads had the "Punched out Pins" with a OEM Glock trigger pad. if this has changed with the new administration at the USPSA offices / Administration in the passing years, concerning the visual aspects of the pins . . . .i honestly don't know" and the USPSA home office can comment. I do know that among a one or two well known shooters making/Modifying very highly regarded triggers that are USPSA legal the DK customs triggers are Production legal and do not have the Punched out Pin Issues. . . . . .that and his Kits are using the best Ultra Light weight Striker out there. Just saying.

9MM, 40S&W & 357 SIG Glock OEM Strikers: all of the strikers should switch from Gen 1-3 and Gen 4 within their respective caliber / models with no issues. (same with the Firing pin safety's) OEM strikers are marked by the "Hash" marks near their tip to identify the correct caliber as per Glock. (no change at all from the OEM FPS from model to model in theses calibers) Aftermarket strikers "Should be able to interchange from 9mm to 40S&W and 357 Sig with out issue. (depending on how they were designed and manufactured) Contact the customer service rep for you favorite aftermarket Parts supplier and ask for their written warranty when you order your Striker.

as of last week Ray in no longer associated with Zev Technologies / Glockworx I suggest calling Customer service every morning until you get a positive response from upper management that will solve your problem. Good Luck.

Try dropping in an IDP trigger, all Aluminum or Ti gets rid of slop and a fair amount of pre-travel, smoother pull.

Currently 75F and a slight ocean breeze off the strawberry fields

Many years ago I had a conversation with the El Hefe big editor of one of the best known gun mags, me being a sarcastic a-hole I mentioned how did the High Point get to be gun of the year . . . "did their check clear?" His answer was "yes. . . It did" I have found in the last few years i subscribe to and read writers whose opinion I trust, Might not agree with all the time, but respect.

The world of Gun Springs the book of knowledge concerning how their made and why they are labeled the way they are is a dark vast abyss of different scales of comparison, processes, conventions, mysterious ages old proprietary manufacturing information and a massive steaming dump truck load of "We've always labeled them that way" . just because my label says I'm a French Model and give off the odor of roses and Potpourri don't make it so either. . . is 17lbs really 17lbs across the board? Are they measuring just the operational stroke of the spring in use? or are they measuring the force it takes to get to the full stacked coils? Are they measuring the force it takes to load the spring to "Point X"? or the force the spring is giving off while unloading from "Point Y" . . . is there a difference?. . . should there be? Are they pulling the spring against a Slide and guide rod set up to record the force levels? or is it all on a test bed,? does it make a difference?. . . . should it? Got schooled by a Spring manufacturer once who brought up some of these little gems when we said there was a difference from Lot "X" to Lot "Y" on his springs. thinking too much about this can and will cause headaches. find what works and go with it, and don't stress on the labels.

Well your starting out with that new Slide, Frame and Barrel set up, If it were me i would fit the barrel, recoil rod and spring to the slide and frame liberally slathered with J-B Bore paste in the rails. Sit down and spend the entire movie of "Stagecoach and Red River" cycling it back and forth. That will get the rails, and barrel started on the way to breaking themselves in to each other. Clean & reassemble with the lightest oil / lube you can find, use lots and often. (until about the first 2k of rounds I've done this and it's worked pretty well.) for a 9mm I use a 12 lbs spring in a gun that well worn in, you could drop down to a 11lb spring or bump up the Power factor in your 9mm for a 1000 rounds or two. never go lower that an 11 lb recoil spring, it is possible under certain circumstance with an under weight recoil spring to "Pull the slide out of battery" during the trigger pull. then you get all sorts of fun things happening at once. . . none of them good. For 3 Gun I would go with the higher power factor ammo better to knock down steel at distance, and the dreaded MGM Double spinner, and the Whirligig star past 25 yards. For Steel and Cowpie Action style shooting where to power factor is determined by the bullet actually passing all of the way through the cardboard target . . . i would drop my recoil spring down to an 11. just my 2 cents . . . . .

New Spring cups for a new striker . . . every time . . . . and every 5000 rounds there after, . . . . . . keeps the Striker "Centered" in the channel and from wearing off center to one side or the other thus rubbing the back of the breach face on the way by. $2.50 for two

Modern version of a . 38 Special Semi Auto revolver = Mateba. was even more ammunition sensitive than the Smith and Wesson 52 (38 Spl Semi auto) I've shot both, and that about sums it up. . . nothing spectacular but there you are. P.S. I'm the a**hole the goes into guns stores and asks for Trounds for my revolver just for fun.

11 coil springs work best with OEM tubes, Followers and Arredondo +5's 12 and 13 coil springs mean you can get them to hold those 20 rounds but your probably not going get them to seat too well. Arredondo or Wolff springs

Kurt I was not thinking of the Speed unload as much as Speed, accuracy and the correct pre planning of coming up upon slide lock after engaging the last target. (Shotguns) (in all fairness this only happened once to me, at the Nationals a few years ago, and I was as surprised as everyone else.) I agree speed un-loading = bad things are gonna happen here soon! i guess nothing beats knowing you equipment and how to activate the safety's,and properly setting your gun down on the move.

I've shoot a match or two here and there for a few years and seen a lot of rules for the condition of guns to be abandoned in their proper dump boxes. the one way there is never any questions is when the match director says at the shooters meeting and points out to the assembled masses that first morning "ALL FIREARMS ABANDONED IN THEIR RESPECTIVE DUMP BOXES WILL BE COMPLETELY DEVOID OF AMMUNITION, NO MAGAZINES IN THE RECEIVER - EMPTY OR NOT, NOTHING IN THE TUBE, NOTHING IN THE CHAMBER, NOTHING ON THE CARRIER" reasonably straight forward, easy to enforce, if it's jammed = unjamb it before you leave, if it's stuck = unstuck it. this will get you to make sure of all of your equipment and movements and stage planing before you get to the box. (in all fairness I'm not the poster boy of pre planning on a stage . . but i still like the idea of empty guns in the dump boxes)

Good Steel Strikers and Stock Glock Strikers are not the same! Awhile back some "Value Engineers" at Glock went from Solid Billet turned Steel strikers to MIM Parts, the problem with that is if your drilling "Go Fast Holes" at home to reduce weight you just might find that hidden inclusion in the casting, solid steel billet has much less chance of that. (if your going to mill down your own parts use a fixture . . . don't freehand with a dremel) the best of the after market parts are manufactured from Billet Heat Treated Stainless Steel, held to .0002 Concentricity to axis of the striker from the "Leg" to the "tip" and the manufacturer of the part will put a minimum guarantee of 8- 10K rounds on the striker before it starts to show wear. these are considerably more expensive than stock or parts made overseas. . . but they will last longer, Please remember that strikers are a replaceable part, they are subject to wear and they have a service life. (8-20,000K rounds depending on your shooting style. Some people change every two months. some only after it breaks or is worn to beyond safe specs, so don't think this is a one time purchase, unless your outfitting a Safe Queen! Do your due diligence over the phone with the manufacturers and make sure that "Made in America" is still important to them. P.S. If you don't like the idea of a light weight striker, there are some that are making a good quality stainless steel (Made in the USA) stock strikers with an extended tip.

They are stock cuts from the factory, they are on all of the 17L & 24's. that is why its difficult to mill in a red dot on factory slides.