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best re-sizing die


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I am new to reloading and currently have a single stage I am going to start loading rifle on (bolt not in large quantities). I was planning on using the single stage to re-size all the brass I have (hand gun and rifle). Anyone recommend a solid resizing die? (Will be buying .40, 9mm, .38 & .45)

Thanks.

Chris

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I don't believe you can go wrong with any of the manufacturers die sets. I prefer RCBS but that is JMHO. You might need a U (undersize) die for .40. Do a search for info on that.

Richard

PS: Guess I should add that I would recommend getting a die set w/carbide resizer.

Edited by chirpy
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My Dillon dies work great but if I get picky and wonna bust that "bulge"? Redding carbide GR-X sizing die for my .40 on a single stage (since you got the single stage already) oh RCBS full length sizer for my 223 everything else DILLON! Why spend the money for a more exspensive die if a less exspensive die can do the same for less. :cheers: . Good luck..

Edited by MARKAVELI
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Take a look at the Lee Carbide four die set, Cheap and they have one of the best designs on their sizer. Sizes closer to the extractor groove eliminating the buldge and primer punch works great. That's what I use on my 650 and 550 machines. When you get the funds look hard at a 550, you'll never look back once you get used to a progressive.

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Hey Guys,

I have been reloading for 30 plus years and found Lee has a great oversized die for 9mm, 40 and 45 acp. These dies work great in my OLD 450B's. So yes I agree use a carbide oversized die for sizing all cases. It will help with loading and at the range. Sometimes you may find some 9mm cases from a Glock that have a bulge near the base of the case, these dies remove that bulge. Also get a case gauge and use it all the time after you reload. Drop in drop out. Like go, no go.

Mike

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Regular Lee sizing die is best. I never found the need for a U-die in any caliber other then .380. For some reason .380 has some thinner brass and Jacketed bullets don't have as much tension. 9mm, .40 never a issue. All fit a case gauge perfectly after sizing. I don't like over sizing all brass just because I can. That is what a U-Die is doing if you use it and don't need it.

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I would def. get a egw U-die for the .40 s&w. Seems to do a better job on the cases with a "Glock bulge". Never never had any issues with standard Lee dies in any of my other calibers.

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Take a look at the Lee Carbide four die set, Cheap and they have one of the best designs on their sizer. Sizes closer to the extractor groove eliminating the buldge and primer punch works great. That's what I use on my 650 and 550 machines. When you get the funds look hard at a 550, you'll never look back once you get used to a progressive.

I also agree with every bit of this.

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I have found the Lee dies to be an outstanding value across all my presses and calibers. I use them for 9mm, .223, and .308. For precision 308 I use a Lee collet neck sizer have found nothing better. I played with the RCBS X-sizer in .223 but still prefer the Lee. The one issue I had on my 650 was the Lee 9mm sizer didn't seem to have enough threads for the lock ring once it was in the tool head. Had to use a Dillon which works well but I have to stock the little C clips that tend to break every 5-10k cases sized. Any of you have the same problem with the Lee being too short?

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I have found the Lee dies to be an outstanding value across all my presses and calibers. I use them for 9mm, .223, and .308. For precision 308 I use a Lee collet neck sizer have found nothing better. I played with the RCBS X-sizer in .223 but still prefer the Lee. The one issue I had on my 650 was the Lee 9mm sizer didn't seem to have enough threads for the lock ring once it was in the tool head. Had to use a Dillon which works well but I have to stock the little C clips that tend to break every 5-10k cases sized. Any of you have the same problem with the Lee being too short?

You can use the Dillon lock rings on the bottom of the die under the tool head. I Lee on my Dillons. Never a issue. You don't need a lot of threads to lock it down. Flip the Lee lock rings upside down.

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I have found the Lee dies to be an outstanding value across all my presses and calibers. I use them for 9mm, .223, and .308. For precision 308 I use a Lee collet neck sizer have found nothing better. I played with the RCBS X-sizer in .223 but still prefer the Lee. The one issue I had on my 650 was the Lee 9mm sizer didn't seem to have enough threads for the lock ring once it was in the tool head. Had to use a Dillon which works well but I have to stock the little C clips that tend to break every 5-10k cases sized. Any of you have the same problem with the Lee being too short?

You can use the Dillon lock rings on the bottom of the die under the tool head. I Lee on my Dillons. Never a issue. You don't need a lot of threads to lock it down. Flip the Lee lock rings upside down.

I never thought of that! Great idea. Thanks for the tip.

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  • 2 months later...

Lee makes a push through die called the bulge buster. I have it for .40, don't know if it comes in any other calibers. It has a post the mounts on the ram to push the cases or finished ammo through the die. The top of the die box mounts on top of the die to act like a hopper to hold the cases as they get pushed through the die. I shoot a Tanfoglio, they can be very finicky about the ammo they get fed. This guarantees no problems.

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Any brand of reloading dies for rifle works. I had used RCBS, Lee, and Hornady dies on RCBS single stage press loading .223, 6.8spc, .243, .450 bushmaster, .308, .30 carbine, 7.62x39, .270, etc. with no problems. I like the hornady dies with bullet guide sleeve (it guides the bullet in place when seating). To me, single stage is better for making accurate loads for accuracy, but for volume/plinking shooting, progressive is the way to go. The most important thing is to size your brass as far/deep as the maximum the sizing dies would allow, and also trimming the brass to the correct size. Good luck!

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+1 for the Lee dies. I was told a long time ago that Lee made the best sizers. I bought one for each pistol caliber I load and have never looked back. I have a lot of faith in Redding dies for my rifle needs, and I suspect that their pistol dies would be the same high quality, but they would cost a lot more, and I doubt they would be better for sizing than Lee.

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I have Lee, Hornady, RCBS, Redding, and Dillon dies. My current favorites are the Redding and Dillon. I usually replace the lockrings with Hornady lockrings (for single stage) because the locking screw doesn't tighten against the threads (the Lees don't even lock to the die at all).

The only serious issues I've had are a Lee .458 SOCOM size die that frequently seized cases (even with good lube and after 1 trip back to the factory for hand polishing), a Dillon 9mm seating die (actually, the seater plug shape) that for some reason wouldn't work with the 115 gr Montana Gold JHPs I was using, and a .380 Hornady seater that has no provision for taper crimping.

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What is the best sizing die?

The one that works!!!

Is your chamber loose? (This is 5 or 6 thousandths larger than SAAMI specs for a cartridge) Most any die works...

Is the chamber real tight? (We are talking 2 to 3 thousandths larger than SAAMI specs) You will need to use something like the U die, Redding Competition, or a push through die.

The important part about sizing the brass is not what it does at the mouth, most any die works there, it is what it does to the base of the case. Failing to properly size the base is what causes most jams that lock the gun up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not to hijack the thread, but I can't find info on the "bulge buster" that indicates if it can be used with anything but the FCD. Can it be used with my Lee 3 Die set(which did not include FCD) that came with my Pro 1000? Does it replace bullet seater in crimp die, or decapper in sizing die?

Thanks,

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