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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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Everything posted by bigfish

  1. I like the feel of the old one better, and I already have 3 guns with the old one in them
  2. So I have a couple of older M&Ps with apex AEK kits in them and got another M&P M1.0 a while back. After installing a Competition AEK in it the trigger feels much different then the other ones. I noticed the sear has a lip on the back that engages the striker on the new sear while the old sears are machined pretty much flat on the back side. The new sear is much more crisp then the old style but I would rather keep all the triggers feeling the same. Anybody know where I can get an old style Apex sear? I though about just cutting the back of the sear to be more like the old ones but I would rather just buy one if I can
  3. The post was edited before there where any responses because it’s just going to turn into a “he said, she said” had I left it. It was edited before there where any responses, but obviously someone saw it before the edit since someone did reply to it
  4. Remember there are 2 side to each story and we are only hearing 1. If the other people involved want to chime in, that’s up to them.
  5. Pretty sure the factory trigger in my canik p120 was better than that
  6. I also have both, Apex is better
  7. The tip that hits the primer
  8. I did try an extra power Glock striker spring in mine and it worked fine for about 2 months and then the striker broke. When back to the original. Bad striker or too strong of spring? Not sure what caused it
  9. Some people don’t like really heavy guns.
  10. I prefer the apex AEK with the factory trigger. I installed a Forward set sear and about a month later went back to the AEK with a factory trigger shoe. I don’t like having my trigger finger extended to reach the FSS
  11. Could be a great entry level limited gun if it’s offered in .40
  12. But I shoot my M&Ps better then my CZ’s or my Glock and I can Buy 2 M2.0s with triggers and Dawson Sights for less then the of either one of my CZs. At that point a barrel that cost about the same as an entry fee for some major matches is pretty easy to justify if it needed
  13. Plus a M2.0 can be had for $400 plus a $50 rebate (recently expired) for a grand total of $350. About half the price of a Walther or Gen 5 G34.
  14. I would do the RIA, just because the thumb safety is easier to use/reach
  15. Could always look around for a used Para double stack or Buy a Rock Island High Cap
  16. I would replace it with a Dawson if the bulb on the fiber rod isn’t counter-sunk into the sight to get rid of the halo effect. If it is just get a new rod. Not sure what the dovetail cut is though
  17. Anybody ever tried to weld up the frame rails then file them back down to get rid of the side to side movement? Sear blocks and locking locks are cheap to replace if you screw up, assuming you can find replacements
  18. Started watching it on a Sat night. Finished it by Sun night. Great series! My love of westerners is probably part of the reason my fiancé says I have an old soul! Lol
  19. Complete slide w/Dawson fixed sights, barrel and guide rod removed I’m at 13.55 oz
  20. It probably wouldn’t cost very much to just have the front sight removed and have a dovetail cut into it.
  21. I defy thought about building one of these
  22. I agree 100%. I bought a new edge a couple years ago, gun runs great but it seemed kind of loose for what they cost. I shoot with a bullseye shooter that bought a DVC and he though the same thing. He also has a custom 2011, I have also have CZ shadow and a M&p with an apex barrel and all 3 of the non STI guns group as good or better that both the Edge and DVC. With most of the new STI guns in the $3k area they should group like a bullseye gun. There a lot of custom builders that will build a custom 2011 for that price that are extremely accurate
  23. I’m tempted to buy one of their short block kits
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