2nd light powder load

[davester00]

Today I went to a the range to do some drills and was shooting some reloads.

230 grn Bear Creek Moly RLN

5.1 grn Solo 1000

CCI primers and mixed brass

Dillon 550b

This is the second time I got a light powder load.

I felt a light pop.

The range was dark so I couldn't see the bullet fly thru the air like the 1st light powder load I had 2 months ago.

So I unloaded the pistol and used a pen to make sure the barrel was clear.

Since the first light powder load I had I added a LED light so my shell plate and the cartridges in station 2 and 3 are easier to see inside of.

Allowing me to make sure nothing looks funny before I place a bullet on a shell filled with powder.

When I was making this batch I didn't remember seeing anything funny.

Could there be a chance that I have the correct amount of powder in the shell but for whatever reason all of it isn't igniting?

Could it be a primer issue?

Anyone think it's a processing issue, for instance for whatever reason when I cycle my dillon 550b something the cycle is interrupted not allowing the powder to full drop or the powder bar to be filled to the set full capacity?

Anyone have input on why I'm getting more light powder charges on my 550b more frequently now?

Thanks in advance.

[noylj]

If the powder was contaminated, you should have unburned powder in the action and the barrel.

If the primer was at fault, you would notice a definite lag in ignition.

The other unlikely cause would be a contaminant in only that particular case.

With near 100% certainty, you missed a no powder/light charge case.

This is why inspection and the use of an RCBS Lock-Out die is recommended.

The scary thing about squibs is NOT noticing and firing the next round.

S1k should be easily visibly in the case.

[Skydiver]

Where would you put the Lock-Out die on a 550? It's only got 4 holes to hold dies.

[Hi-Power Jack]

With near 100% certainty, you missed a no powder/light charge case.

What are you using to lube the cases? Possible that

you're getting just a little too much lube in a few

cases, and it's affecting ignition?

Jack

[davester00]

Thanks for all the replies.

I really need to slow down and spot 100% of cases that are filled with powder before I place a bullet on top. Also, I need to make sure I get compete strokes of the handle. Either that or upgrade to a 650 with a position for a powder lockout die.

Once in a while I have something blocking my decapping pin from punching out the primer.

I found a 380 case stuck in one of the MIGHTY .45ACP cases and that interrupted the my stroke once in a while shredded target paper hides inside cases.

In this interrupted stroke perhaps the case that was at the powder station did not go 100% up, not allowing the powder bar to dump all of it's contents into that case.

I am using Hornady One Shot case lube. I throw about 200 cases in a box and spray them down for about 5 seconds and then shake them around. I let them dry for about 5 minutes.

[dillon]

An interrupted stroke as you described will result in a light powder charge, as the powder bar is not fully actuated under that circumstance.

[BMartens]

When you have an interuption, STOP and check everything before you proceed. Clear the shellplate of anything you are not sure of and start over.

In the short stroke scenario you describe the worst thing that can happen is a partial powder drop in the case under the measure, then you clear the case at the first station, insert another case or just pull the handle again and now you have a regular charge on top of a partial charge. Your attention is on station one and you don't check for over powder. That spells trouble. On the 550 you control the shellplate so you have to be sure so stop and evaluate what happened and take corrective action.

[CMD-KY]

Where would you put the Lock-Out die on a 550? It's only got 4 holes to hold dies.

Use station three for the lock out die then a die that seats as well as crimps in a single operation at station four. It is somewhat cumbersome but it works for me.

[mlmiller1]

I stopped using hornady one shot & threw away what I had left due to issues you describe. I went to the Dillon lube. I haven't found anyone else that has had the same issue or will believe they had that issue but it caused trouble for me. Once I got away from the one shot, my light round problems went away. I really believe if I had let the one shot have more time after applying before loading, there would have been no problem but once bitten, twice shy. I do NOT like light charges for all these reasons--possible squib, cause a jam, & it messes with my head.

MLM

[prreed10]

How are you using the Hornady One shot? For pistol, I spray the inside of a gallon zip loc bag, throw 100-200 cases in, seal the bag and roll It around on my bench.

[dsmw5142]

I've never had a problem with one shot. I don't even usually let it dry all the way. I have a 1/2 gallon or so sized bucket that I fill with brass then give em a spray and shake them around then commence loading.

While I've never had a problem, for match ammo, I'm more careful, and make sure the cases are most definitely dry.

[wide45]

...I am using Hornady One Shot case lube. I throw about 200 cases in a box and spray them down for about 5 seconds and then shake them around. I let them dry for about 5 minutes.

You are using way more than you need. Try spraying for no more than 2 seconds per 400-500 rounds. They should not be wet or gooey. It takes very little of the One Shot.

I tip the cases so they are all on their sides. Avoids getting lube inside.

Edited December 19, 2011 by wide45

[mlmiller1]

When I stopped with the one shot, I started using the dillon lube & squirt a little of it in a big zip lock, then I add the brass to the bag. Shake it all around & it is good to go. I also only use a little spray. Probably if I had done that with the one shot, it would have been fine. If you are spraying 4-5 seconds, that is way too much.

MLM

[davester00]

Well fellas,

I loaded up 3 .45 ACP cases with 5.1 grn solo 1000 using a CCI primers. I sprayed the cases with Hornady One Shot Case Lube. I MADE SURE THESE CASES WERE DRY.

Then I loaded up 3 cases using the same condition but before running them thru my dillon 550b I made sure the inside of the cases were still WET with the case lube.

2 days later I went to the range.

The 3 cases that were lubed but allowed to dry properly functioned 100%.

Wet cases gave me the light powder sensation that I was complaining about.

BOTTOM LINE:

If you use Hornady One Shot Case Lube with Solo 1000 powder, MAKE SURE THAT THE LUBE IS 100% DRY before running them thru your reloader and dropping powder into them.

As for me, I'll run the rest of my Hornady One Shot until it's empty but, I'll make sure it is dry before I run the cases thru my press. After the One Shot is done, I'll change over to Dillion lube.

[DougCarden]

If you use a tray to lube, knock all cases down on their side so when you spray down no lube goes inside the case mouth

You can then lube them and shake them around, getting lube on the whole case but NOT in the case mouth.

If you use the bag, spray lube in the bag without any cases first. That should help.

Good luck,

DougC

[dcalvert]

I have loaded and shot thousands and thousands of rounds using One Shot and have never experienced any problems with ignition.

Just lay cases on t there side in a cardboard box (like the box under a case of pop cans) and lightly spray them. Shake the box to roll them around and done.

Loaded lot of the pistol powders like N320, N310, 3n37, N359, 3n38, WST,7625, 4756, American Select and never experienced Light load.

I would look to some other reason in your loading process for the problem.

dcalvert

[Sarge]

It's not the one shot.

Not to be a jerk but it sounds like you have a sloppy technique going. On the shell plate is not the place to find out you have 380 brass, paper, whatever nested in your casings. Clean, inspect, SORT, etc.. your brass well before it gets near the press.

A short stroke is a short stroke. You mention going from the 550 to the 650 so you can put a powder check in. The better idea is using the proper stroke and doing it exactly the same way every time.

I think the powder check is a waste of time and money. Too many use it as a crutch. LOOK INSIDE THE CASE. That is the best powder check around.

[davester00]

Thanks guys for all the input. I'll clean up my act and slow down.

Thread is closed.