davester00

Since I could get plated bullets at about the same price, what have you guys found to be more accurate? I'm loading 230grn RN over 5.0-5.1 Solo 1000. Let me know if you guys have any insight on what is more accurate and less smokey?

I'm running low on my batch of Bear Creek Moly bullets. Can't seem to find them anymore. I was wondering if any of you guys have a good link on a bulk buy. In a few months I'm looking to get 10k .45 ACP 230grn RN bullets either moly or plated to feed my 5" 1911. Please provide weblinks. Thanks in advance.

My experince. I've reloaded for 5 years on a 550 and 1050. 9mm, .45 ACP, .223 and .308 Not new to reloading, but new to shooting and reloading on RCBS Rockchucker supream kit for 300 Win MAG BOLT GUN. I will be mainly starting with once fired brass and I have most of the components and equipment to reload. Component (limited to what is avalible so these componets are mediocore at best) Wolf Large Rifle MAGNUM primers Federal "FC12" once fired .300 Win MAGNUM brass Hornady 208grn A-max bullets Alliant Power Pro 4000 MR powder As they say "I just want to crank out some real precision 300 Winchester MAGNUM, you know." and don't mind taking my time to get the best rounds my componets can make. So, what are some of the steps you guys take prepare your brass to make high precision rounds for a BOLT GUN? Thanks in advance.

I'm brass processing and reloading on a 1050, Anyone have any ideas on how to incorporate a counter? Also, i've found my blue bin too small and need suggestions on making a completed round/processed brass catch so that the completed product is collected and slides down a tube into a container underneath my bench. Anyone have any pictures or ideas on how to implement these 2 features without breaking the bank? Thanks in advance. Pictures if you can

Case processing .223 on a Dillon 1050 SUPER swaging question. I wanted to see if I could tap some information from you guys processing .223 brass on a Dillon 1050 SUPER. I inherited a few buckets of .223 brass mostly collected between 2005 and now 2013. It is mostly once fired and collected from outdoor range(s). I am not going to sort the brass by head stamp. There is a mix of crimped and non-crimped brass. I am setting up the swaging station of my 1050 SUPER and would like to get feedback on how to set it up. Is there “master key” of sorts that I could index off of and get a large percentage of my crimped .223 swaged? Below is a list of the head stamps that I have collected in my bucket of .223 brass. Any helpful comments are appreciated. Thank you, gentlemen. AC CBC CJ 93 F.C. FIOCCHI G.F.L HORNADY HOT SHOT LC ( 07 thru 12) M193 PMC PPU07 PSD R-P SPEER WCC WINCHESTER TAA

I have reloaded and processed brass 5.56 / 7.62 on a dillon 550 for about 4-5 years. I came up on a ton of .223/5.56 brass and need a semi-automated way to process it. After tumbling the cases I would like to: deprime swage (crimped primer pockets) resize trim Not necessarily in that order but which ever order is conducive to the Dillon 1050 setup. The Big question is what do I need to buy and what is the cost? My buy list is 1. Vacuum $50 2. Dillon Standard Rapid Trim RT 1200B Case Trimmer $255 3. Dillon .223 Trim Die $50 4. Replacement Cutting Blades $20 5. De-capping die $27 6. Ponsness/Warren Auto Drive $850 7. Dillon 1050 B super with .223 carbide dies $1765 Its features include and it comes with: Automatic Casefeeder Automatic Indexing Eight-Station Interchangeable Toolhead Primer Pocket Swaging Station Automatic Powder Measure System Automatic Priming System Low Primer Warning System (sounds audible alarm) Loaded Cartridge, Auto-eject System Plastic Bullet Tray (mounts to press) Standard (not ball-end) hex key set ("allen wrenches") Uses Standard 7/8" x 14 Dies (included) Loading Rate: 1000+ Rounds per Hour Is there anything else I'm missing???

Thanks for the lead. When was the last time anyone used DC to process brass? I've been trying to email them but I get no reply.

My local guy closed is .223 brass processing service (San Diego) Does anyone know who will process .223 brass cases. Deprime swage resize trim chamfer deburr send the clean cases back to me (I pay shipping) Please list the places that will do this. I can send out 2 large priority mail size boxes (5k total) Thanks guys. Dave

Hello, Just for fun, does anyone have a recipe that they have tried for 9mm that will give me the most visible muzzle flash and flip? I will be using: 115 grn Precision Delta RN FMJ CCI SPP Mixed Brass C.O.L ~1.100" in my M&P 9. I've heard of Power Pistol @ 6.7 grn(listed max) Has anyone else tried something with tons of flash? Please list powder and load data for the most flash and flip that you have tried. Remember, this is just for fun/visual excitement. Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys for all the input. I'll clean up my act and slow down. Thread is closed.

Well fellas, I loaded up 3 .45 ACP cases with 5.1 grn solo 1000 using a CCI primers. I sprayed the cases with Hornady One Shot Case Lube. I MADE SURE THESE CASES WERE DRY. Then I loaded up 3 cases using the same condition but before running them thru my dillon 550b I made sure the inside of the cases were still WET with the case lube. 2 days later I went to the range. The 3 cases that were lubed but allowed to dry properly functioned 100%. Wet cases gave me the light powder sensation that I was complaining about. BOTTOM LINE: If you use Hornady One Shot Case Lube with Solo 1000 powder, MAKE SURE THAT THE LUBE IS 100% DRY before running them thru your reloader and dropping powder into them. As for me, I'll run the rest of my Hornady One Shot until it's empty but, I'll make sure it is dry before I run the cases thru my press. After the One Shot is done, I'll change over to Dillion lube.

Thanks for all the replies. I really need to slow down and spot 100% of cases that are filled with powder before I place a bullet on top. Also, I need to make sure I get compete strokes of the handle. Either that or upgrade to a 650 with a position for a powder lockout die. Once in a while I have something blocking my decapping pin from punching out the primer. I found a 380 case stuck in one of the MIGHTY .45ACP cases and that interrupted the my stroke once in a while shredded target paper hides inside cases. In this interrupted stroke perhaps the case that was at the powder station did not go 100% up, not allowing the powder bar to dump all of it's contents into that case. I am using Hornady One Shot case lube. I throw about 200 cases in a box and spray them down for about 5 seconds and then shake them around. I let them dry for about 5 minutes.

Today I went to a the range to do some drills and was shooting some reloads. 230 grn Bear Creek Moly RLN 5.1 grn Solo 1000 CCI primers and mixed brass Dillon 550b This is the second time I got a light powder load. I felt a light pop. The range was dark so I couldn't see the bullet fly thru the air like the 1st light powder load I had 2 months ago. So I unloaded the pistol and used a pen to make sure the barrel was clear. Since the first light powder load I had I added a LED light so my shell plate and the cartridges in station 2 and 3 are easier to see inside of. Allowing me to make sure nothing looks funny before I place a bullet on a shell filled with powder. When I was making this batch I didn't remember seeing anything funny. Could there be a chance that I have the correct amount of powder in the shell but for whatever reason all of it isn't igniting? Could it be a primer issue? Anyone think it's a processing issue, for instance for whatever reason when I cycle my dillon 550b something the cycle is interrupted not allowing the powder to full drop or the powder bar to be filled to the set full capacity? Anyone have input on why I'm getting more light powder charges on my 550b more frequently now? Thanks in advance.

Is it possible to put a low powder warning die on a Dillion 550? The 550 only has 4 stations.

Today I went to a match and was shooting some reloads. 200 grn Dardas LSWC 5.1 grn Solo 1000 CCI primers and mixed brass Dillon 550 Thru my 5” barrel 1911 While shooting I pulled the trigger and out came a light pop. Shell did not eject but I was visually able to see the bullet fly thru the air and strike the metal plate. So I tapped / racked and continued to fire. Had I not seen the bullet fly thru the air I would have dropped my mag and cleared the chamber and took a DNF for the stage. So my question is? Do you guys think it was a squib or insufficient charge? Would most squibs lodge the bullet in a 5” barrel? Let me know what you reloading guru’s think. Thanks.

Could you fellas point me toward a place that sells Moly coated bulk (>10k) 230 grn round nose .45 bullets and (>5k) 124 grn 9mm bullets. I've heard of BC or Bear Creek being the most cost effective but can't seem to find them anywhere on-line. Thank guys.

Are properly functioning AR able to fire out of battery? I believe that this AR functioned properly before the round blew up.

First of all I'd be glad to say no one was hurt. The only casualties are: BCG, Upper Receiver and maybe barrel extension. This came from a batch of 500 milwall reloaded .223. The reloaded ammo shot well in other guns except one. The AR is less than a year old and is in great condition. Doubt it's the use of incorrect powder or over-charge. Inclosed are the pictures of the BGC and split case. Has anyone seen this or know what caused the problem?

Can any one point me in the right direction toward live fire drills I can do @ a in door pistol range that allows holster draws. All i really do is the infamous dot drill. Someone please point me in the right direction so I could make the most use of my time at an indoor square range. thank you. links to websites and videos are helpful

I've been searching for a clean burning reload for my .45ACP using solo 1000K on a dillon 550b. I would like to have accurate clean burning rounds. Currently I am using dardas cast 200 grn LSWC bullets and with the power they are a bit smokey for indoor shooting when compared to factory loaded WWB. ? Can anyone point me to a cheap, accurate bullet. I was told that the smoke on my reload is due to the lube on the dardas cast bullet. If this is true is a moly coated bullet the way to go? Please post links and feedback. Thank You.

Thanks for all the input. Seems like I'm trying to fix a problem that is caused by the bullet by changing the powder. Solo 1K is already the answer so if I want cleaner burning rounds I would have to change my bullets to lated, jacketed or moly bullet. Thanks guys.

Tried the Dillon Lube and it's like a whole different re-loading experience. Now I can't live without the Dillon lube for resizing .308 cases.

Reloading on a dillon 550b Shooting out of a CC LB .45 ACP My current load is 4.9 grn SOLO 1000 w/ 200grn dardas LSWC winchester or CCI LPP. I'm noticing that it my load is pretty smokey and leaves my pistol dirty. Please suggest a new powder that burns cleaner: What should I use? Winchester 231 VV 320 which powder is burns cleanest?

I purchased the standard (non-carbide) .308 winchester die set from dillon. I was wondering if the resizing-decapping die is a short based one? Many people recommend that I use a short base resizing die for reloading Lake City .308 brass for my Socom II. Please let me know.

I'm breaking my back resizing on my dillon 550b. station #1 RCBS lube die #2 w/rcbs lube #2 dillon resize die #3 trimmer #4 nothing. I was wondering what you guys could recommend for lube. I'm gonna break my elbow and reloading bench. I've tried Hornady One shot. RCBS lube. Dillon recommended theirs of course. Anyone have any experiences what lube is good to resize .308 lake city military brass.