PSSOH22 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Hey guys. I started a thread a while ago about my g34 and light primer strikes. I did some trial and error and im down to the fact that it has to be the striker. My question.... I'm using the gun for ESP, should I get a factory striker again or get one of the lightened ones. If the latter, which one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 I like the Jager. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
427Cobra Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Jager all the way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Do you have anything done to the trigger to reduce overtravel? Reason that I ask is that a Glock trigger has to have a certain amount of overtravel and things that reduce/eliminate overtravel will result in the firing pin's lower lug just dragging across the cruciform sear plate and not getting good forward velocity. Unless you've got a wickedly light firing pin spring, it is rare to have light strikes without some other external cause. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS101 Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Did you rule out hard primers? I was getting light strikes with a lightened striker, but switching to federal primers solved the issue.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul-the new guy Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 +1, vanek trigger nothing works except federal primers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 I've never had any luck avoiding light-strikes with the 4lb reduced power firing springs unless using Federal primers exclusively. I got a couple 4.5lb and a 5.0lb reduced power striker springs from the folks at Glocktriggers and so far through just over 1500rds the 4.5lb spring as set off every kind of factory stuff I've tried. Those are still a little lighter than the stock 5.5lb striker-springs. The lightened strikers from Jager and Glockworx seem to work but I didn't dig the weak reset feel, YMMV. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSSOH22 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 I have personally not done anything to the trigger. It looks upon inspection to be a standard glock trigger. When i first had this problem i checked the firing pin spring and realized the previous owner cut coils off of it. I replaced it with a factory spring. Primers are not Federal and it has been discussed before. I went to the range the other day and was playing around with the 34. After, I picked up all the "misfires"(all primers had been struck) stuck them back in a mag and put them through my G19. All fired..... As far as I know this is a stock g34. Trigger assembly may have been polished but besides that, its factory internals. If I could get a 3.5 # trigger that remained reliable i would be happy!!! Ive ran strings with a 1911 w/ 2.75 lb trigger and mine at 3.5 lb's. Split times were all comparable.... So im not looking to make it super light. Id like 3.5 and ultra reliable, is it possible and how do i achieve it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 +1, vanek trigger nothing works except federal primers [/quoteThat's a pretty broad statement! My Vanek with lightened striker and spring in my 34 will work with any primer I have laying around, even CCI. I guess all guns are different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 . I went to the range the other day and was playing around with the 34. After, I picked up all the "misfires"(all primers had been struck) stuck them back in a mag and put them through my G19. All fired..... Have you ruled out the ammo? Possibly high primers. Often times, rounds that go off on the second try had high primers if shooting reloads. Next time pick up the duds and run them back through the 34 to see if it sets them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midvalleyshooter Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Have you taken the slide assembly completely apart and detail cleaned it? I have had misfires on a very dirty Glock before. Since you have a 19 you might just swap the Striker over after a good cleaning and verify its the striker. As always this is the internet and YMMV:) Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSSOH22 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 Yes ammo was ruled out. Primer depth is good and the firing pin channel is clean. I will swap strikers and try that. Does anyone have recommendations on if it is possible to get a 3.5 lb trigger while remaining reliable? Even if i get the striker issue figured out, i still would like to update the assembly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braxton1 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Yes ammo was ruled out. Primer depth is good and the firing pin channel is clean. I will swap strikers and try that. Does anyone have recommendations on if it is possible to get a 3.5 lb trigger while remaining reliable? Even if i get the striker issue figured out, i still would like to update the assembly ...if only you were still in Atlanta! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 If you're using a stock striker and stock strength striker-spring, it's not ammo related, and you're sure your striker channel is clean, then the next thing to look at is that maybe your recoil-spring is worn out... If your recoil-spring is worn out or too soft than your striker-spring may actually be unlocking and pulling your breech slightly open and pulling the striker and slide further away from the round/primer. The Glock design is based around a tug-of-war between the striker-spring and recoil-spring and if the striker-spring is winning that battle it's no good. If you're running an aftermarket reduced power recoil-spring like a 11lb one or even a 13lb one, then that could be your problem, I'd see what happens if you install a stock 17lb recoil-spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSSOH22 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Share Posted October 11, 2011 I do have an aftermarket assembly in, but when i first started experiencing the problems i swapped it out for the stock one and still had the issues. Either way, I need to get it to run WITH the aftermarket guide rod and 11 lb spring. I was having ejection issues with the stock assembly with my reloads, that is the main reason that i went with the different spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 . If your recoil-spring is worn out or too soft than your striker-spring may actually be unlocking and pulling your breech slightly open and pulling the striker and slide further away from the round/primer. +1 Are the light strikes off center at all? That is another sign of trying to fire oob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 *QUOTE* I've never had any luck avoiding light-strikes with the 4lb reduced power firing springs unless using Federal primers exclusively. Lighten the firing pin. 4lb firing pin spring in mine w/lightened OEM firing pin 100% reliability w/all brands of primers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSSOH22 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 . If your recoil-spring is worn out or too soft than your striker-spring may actually be unlocking and pulling your breech slightly open and pulling the striker and slide further away from the round/primer. +1 Are the light strikes off center at all? That is another sign of trying to fire oob. They are not off center. I was able to get out to shoot a little tonight. I swapped my 34 and 19 striker's and had no issues with either gun! I focused more on the 34 then the 19 though and i only had time to put off 100 rounds. I am definitely going to order a new striker for the 34, but i would like to upgrade my trigger anyway. Since I am shooting ESP, there is no reason not to take advantage of the rules. So what do i go with? Factory parts tuned, vanek, glockworx, or someone not mentioned!? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warpspeed Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I am in the same boat; trying to wade through the vast amount of info about aftermarket triggers. Here is what I have come up with. Most of the available trigger kits are factory parts that are modified. The maker has, though R&D, come up with an improvement on "Glock perfection" and sell it at a price. If you just want something that is drop in and works, it is a great way to go. What most people do is change the connector out and polish the various contact points and are happy. Then they try someone elses Glock with a "insert name brand here" trigger and say "man that's sweet" and place the order. I'm between the Glocktrigger offering and the Vanek. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSSOH22 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 I agree with you! I only use this gun for competition, but i want it to be reliable. Somewhere in that 3-3.5 lb range and i will be happy. I shoot the stock trigger fine, but I feel that having the somewhat common feel between my Glock and Wilson Combat will create less of a disparity when switching platforms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ck1 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 If you want to run an 11lb recoil spring then you pretty much MUST run a 4lb striker-spring (or you'll be risking it going off out-of-battery), and that means you need a lightened striker too to remedy the light-strikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 As ck1 states, reduced recoil spring almost always needs a reduced power striker spring or you will be pulling slide out of battery. The heavier/standard striker spring will allow the trigger bar to pull the slide back while engaging the striker. Try watching the slide as you pull the trigger back, does it pull the slide back? Take a look at your barrel hood, is it level (or nearly level) with the slide while in battery? The barrel hood will be lower if slightly out of battery and could cause light strikes. Causes for this out of battery could be many, bullet interfering with bullet throat (usually only with tight aftermarket barrels), springs out of balance etc... If you get a light strike and load that same light strike round in your g34, will it fire 2nd strike? If not, try giving the back of the slide a hit forward with the heal of your palm before you pull the trigger. And also check your striker protrusion. If striker barely protruding, an extended tip striker might be help but would cause me to wonder why...maybe striker channel liner messed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OperationHitFactor Posted October 13, 2011 Share Posted October 13, 2011 Check the striker cups and spring. Maybe change the trigger housing and trigger bar too. You can try polishing everything too. Matter of fact, just change them out they are cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPatterson Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Since they weren't named I like both versions of the GlockTrigger.com triggers. The Jager striker works better than the one from Glockworx. Depending upon the game and the rules, I have found anything is smoother without the firing pin safety plunger even the polished ones with lighter springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSSOH22 Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 Thanks for the input! Once I get the problem resolved, I think I am going to grab one of these trigger assemblies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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