snertley Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 So..... with Carmoney out of the business as he builds his legal business, where do hammers go to die these days? Well, the bench grinder, of course. The dremel took too long. (see my 625 on post #19). Out of town at the moment with tenuous internet connection...More later... Tom You know you should be using the CUTOFF wheel right? Not the grinding stones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norther Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 Okay, people are saying the optimum is to trim 50% off stock. I already did a minimal trim (spur removal only), so now I'm wondering what the 50% weight is? Anybody know what half an MIM 625 hammer weighs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted December 11, 2011 Share Posted December 11, 2011 IIRC mine was a hair short of 500 grains. Like 498? But I've slept since then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4mike Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 (edited) ......., I'm not looking for that extra 1/2 lb in the trigger... 6-6.5 lbs is quite fine for me. ..... OK but it should be about 4lb this hammer weighs 18,2g (no sear and stirrup) Edited December 12, 2011 by 4mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lugnut Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 ......., I'm not looking for that extra 1/2 lb in the trigger... 6-6.5 lbs is quite fine for me. ..... OK but it should be about 4lb this hammer weighs 18,2g (no sear and stirrup) 4lb with reliable ignition with non crushed Federals would be pretty damn sweet!!! I haven't tried anything under about 5lbs and although that trigger pull was nice.. there was no reset feel at all... if you didn't take you finger or the trigger quickly... it wouldn't reset. I'd love to check out your baby! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carmoney Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 You're not going to get under 5 pounds DA without seriously compromising trigger rebound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEH Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 ......., I'm not looking for that extra 1/2 lb in the trigger... 6-6.5 lbs is quite fine for me. ..... OK but it should be about 4lb this hammer weighs 18,2g (no sear and stirrup) ???the ???where did you get that set up ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 But here's the rub: I've also always believed it's KE that lights off primers. And my experience tells me a lighter hammer will provide more reliable ignition as the pull weight goes down. So if it's not KE that lights off primers, what is it? Very likely, it's Power. Power is energy per unit time. In my example, the bobbed hammer reduced lock time by 20% and gained 26% in velocity, leading to a 26% in power. The lighter hammer is literally more powerful. Gonna have to take that to pencil & paper a bit more. If you haven't yet, give a look to deceleration (retardation?). ...as the hammer, effectively, comes to a stop. Perhaps it isn't lock time, but the time involved to transfer the energy from the hammer to the primer (at the end)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4mike Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 ???the ???where did you get that set up ?? by myself by diamond tips, I´m student of dremelology last 30 years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 4mike- That's a lot of hard work with a Dremel! Great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 OK but it should be about 4lbthis hammer weighs 18,2g (no sear and stirrup) 4Mike - Very nice! In particular, that'd be a perfect hammer for a j-frame that gets carried, since the frame's not opened to all manner of pocket detritus. If you haven't yet, give a look to deceleration (retardation?). ...as the hammer, effectively, comes to a stop.Perhaps it isn't lock time, but the time involved to transfer the energy from the hammer to the primer (at the end)... I'm thinking reduced lock time helps accuracy, but its affect on reliability is a little more indirect: The hammer accelerates and decelerates faster. The same kinetic energy is transmitted over a shorter time period, so the power it transmits is increased, since power = energy per unit time. You know you should be using the CUTOFF wheel right? Not the grinding stones? Yep - I took the back of the hammer off with a cutoff wheel. The gun had already been converted to DAO, so I used the wheel to take a bit more mass off the top and to contour it to the frame, and never got it very hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tampa-XD45 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) I just did my 686SSR hammer. Here are the before & after weight stats: stock hammer: 32 grams after stage 1 hammer bob: 20 grams after stage 2 & 3 grinding: 16 grams So we have a 50% weight reduction for the completed hammer. Used 1 Dremel cutoff wheel, a bench grinder for rough grinding, carbide Dremel grinding bit for the small areas, and 220 grit on a cheapo Harbor Freight 1" belt sander worked wonders on the final finish. Edited December 16, 2011 by Tampaxd45 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Today, my first hammer "bobbing" I don't use the original hammer of my 686 SSR but a replacement one MIM used hammer that I found in a shop Finished cold blue What do you think ? Welcome advice e criticism Thanks guys from Italy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Hi Patrick- Very nice. The blue job will help cut down on glare if the sun is behind you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Hi Patrick- Very nice. The blue job will help cut down on glare if the sun is behind you. THANK YOU SO MUCH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Today, my first hammer "bobbing" I don't use the original hammer of my 686 SSR but a replacement one MIM used hammer that I found in a shop Finished cold blue What do you think ? Welcome advice e criticism Thanks guys from Italy Nice, do you have a shot from the side with side plate off? Also what kind of rear sight is that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Exatly, with the side plate off. The rear sight and the front sight is from LPA sight ITALY, I take it in the factory at Gardone Val Trompia, one hour from my home. I think was the best aftermarket sight for S&W revolvers, really functional e looks good. Yesterday I repeat the blue treatment, and now is better. I attach some pics and the scan of one page 2011 LPA catalogue with the S&W sights > Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFlowers Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Where can I find a spare hammer for a 625-3 (hammer mounted firing pin)? I would like to have a spare before I go cutting on anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom E Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=15113/sku=940-036-200/Product/Hammer-Assembly-500-Target-Blue Doesn't matter if you start with a .500 "Target", you're going to cut it all off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Halley Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Where can I find a spare hammer for a 625-3 (hammer mounted firing pin)? I would like to have a spare before I go cutting on anything. I find that you can't take as much off of the hammer mounted pin models. Mine came out to have a pretty serious hump which I find useful for lashing it into the race holster when not shooting. I have shaved the forties down really low and thin and combined with the titanium cylinder it's pretty light and smooth. If you want to really enjoy your revolver trigger pull....spend a week dry firing an M9 at a Beam Hit. We've been preparing marksmanship-deficient personnel to requalify to carry weapons shipboard. Never go 25 for 25 one handed in double action because you're bored in training...you become the instructor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Where can I find a spare hammer for a 625-3 (hammer mounted firing pin)? I would like to have a spare before I go cutting on anything. I just chopped mine off today. 625-4, and it took awhile to get up the nerve to do it. This gun is the tightest S&W revolver I have ever touched of any model with a total of 130 rounds fired. Cylinder locks up almost like a Colt, I haven't checked, but I doubt it has even .002" endshake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 The 0,002 inch, for my young experience is the most popular endshake > take the 0,002 power custom shim and try with one piece Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) The 0,002 inch, for my young experience is the most popular endshake > take the 0,002 power custom shim and try with one piece. Another time a double message. Someone can delete that ? thanks Edited December 24, 2011 by Patrick1981 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 If I am having reliable ignition with just the spur being removed on my 66 and I remove more weight without anything else being done I still should be in good shape if I have read correct. Actually I have had one light strike with Rem UMC loads in about 500 and have not got into my reloads yet. I probably will not mess with it much, but just interested if I get the weight down if it would be more reliable with harder primers like CCI or something else? More understanding than what I am going to use. I got a pile of Fed to start using. On the other hand my 625 is about to go under the knife so to say.... again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suicycle Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 After browsing a while I got out the band saw and files. Finsihed out to 320 grit. Tomorrow I plan on doing minor bead blasting and cold blue. http://s1005.photobucket.com/albums/af180/teresab862/Jameys%20Photos/?action=view¤t=PhotoDec2584147PM.jpg http://s1005.photobucket.com/albums/af180/teresab862/Jameys%20Photos/?action=view¤t=PhotoDec2583929PM.jpg http://s1005.photobucket.com/albums/af180/teresab862/Jameys%20Photos/?action=view¤t=PhotoDec2583714PM.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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