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Patrick1981

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Everything posted by Patrick1981

  1. Try 11 lb rebound and test, if you have also good return try to cut off one coil at time. But before make this be shure te mainspring tension is ok to pop the CCI primers. Take the 3 pieces package and if you shorten too much one for experiment you have another two. Bye from Italy
  2. Thanks Mike, it's only for curiosity It is always nice to inquire in wheelgun world
  3. And another question about this topic: On Jerry K. book: Ideal clearance on best let-out angle is (from trigger bevel to sear) .009-.010 front and .010-.012 back. What is the front and back exactly? Watching the description I don't understand so good. Thanks
  4. Stoning a MIM sear or a forged old style sear to increase let-out is more difficult or same? Quickly watching it seems easyer the forged.
  5. Try the cheap Pachmayr professional grip with open backstrap
  6. John, I have a 686-2 and seems to have fixed front sight..for you is possible under finish there's a pin ?
  7. Yes...do you ever touch the cam with a file/stone ? On Kuhnhausen book: don't touch trigger cam. Don't try to resolve DA problem stoning the trigger bevel/cam or hammer part. Only work on sear. If damaged, too shorted or in doubt change sear..but I read it's a problem to find it.
  8. Usually for right work with fiber optic front sight is necessary put a higher blade or another aftermarket rear sight. What kind of front sight did you install?
  9. I use Pachmayr and Nille Griffe grips on my revolvers.
  10. Yes here in Italy is available the mod. 986 in 9X21 (9 mm. Italy) ahah ! Anyway I prefer my 686's
  11. The only thing I remember maybe, isn't legal for Idpa. But anyway work with my Comp III's. The belt loop for me is very large, with a normal belt would be better to tighten it, or increase the thickness of the belt at that point. Otherwise it has too much play, but probably with a big or competition belt the problem is reduced.
  12. Thanks Warren, but for endshake ? I try with a 0,002 shim ? I have bad and good experiences with shims, sometime I put the smallest shim and after a few shot I damage the ratchet, making a ugly signs probably made by the contact from hand to ratchet..
  13. Never of this situation. After gasoline I put Break Free..
  14. Hello I'm back on this post for another question. I own about two years ago about a 686-2 intake of 1987 in very good condition, the owner had held for 22 years in the drawer. Not a sign of rotation of the cylinder, not a scratch, perfect in alla parts. I've always kept aside, except December I used it for a workout to 300 rounds and after this May in a match of 200 round (always with factor reloaded ammunition). After cleaning, I began to feel a resistance on the rotation. I gave gasoline and tried to clean with compressed air residue in the cylinder yoke crane where he works and than oiled. The cylinder opens and closes well and the rod is perfectly aligned. But there is still this "brake" noise and cylinder slows down very quickly. After have cleaned one more time, I do the test of endshake and I realize that there is! Was not there before! Can go any which has developed with cos' a few hits? Is it possible that this is the cause of the strange friction in the rotation? Thanks a lot
  15. I find an hammer nose on Midway 2 years ago, but I see the rivet only on Brownells. Search for hammer nose rivet.
  16. You're a Master! Great ideas! No, I can't have endshake now (but I have install a 0,004 to eliminate that 2 years ago) I use an Extended FP and a reduced FP return spring but since from the beginning I never have great result like on the others Smiths. In this days I analized more detalis and I see the face of the yoke crane is not perfectly square. I use a black paint pencil on the face, put inside the cylinder and run, put back and the black is gone only from 3/5 of the face. Is this another possible cause? The alignment seems good, open and closed smoothly. Thanks Warren.
  17. Hi guys After reading the Jerry Khunhausen book of revolver..I think develop why in my 686 SSR I can't have a trigger job well as on my old 686-2 and 686-5. I read the correct headspace is not lower than 0,060 and not over 0,064. Lower do bind and much cause mistfires. ( In mm. is 1,52 e 1,62 ) In my SSR I can put also 1,65 mm. Probably the best and resolutive way is change revolver. But for you there's any mysterious way to make something to reduce headspace of 0,10 mm. (0,004") and not enlarge cylinder gap ? Thanks for the miracle
  18. From my experience, if you find a 686 series 5 prelock in good condition is a great gun. Some series 6 have some problems. Old hammer mounted series is beautiful, but for may reason (replacement parts, no drill frame, no pinned front sight etc.), I prefer for competition the new style configuration. Anyway I have a 686-2 and shoot very well but is a secondary gun. Bye from Italy
  19. Maybe the yoke is little bent? Try to remove the front locking bolt.
  20. Compared to the C&S, the XP is better ?
  21. Hi guys If I take this J frame kit from Midway .. the Apex XP firing pin inside this, is also good for my 686 ? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/312808/apex-tactical-duty-carry-spring-kit-s-and-w-j-frame-31-32-34-36-37-38-42-49-60-63-631-632-637-638-640-642-649 I hope yes, I read the C&S description is for J-K-L-N frame. Maybe is the XP firing pin (standard) with 2 J frame spring. Thanks !
  22. Maybe in future S&W made a new revo in 40 ? I hope
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