4mike Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 15g hammer (include sear) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBorland Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Very nice, indeed. Great dremel skills, too. How many rounds have you shot with this hammer? Specifically, I'm wondering to what degree durability might be the tradeoff. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gregg K Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Very nice, indeed. Great dremel skills, too. How many rounds have you shot with this hammer? Specifically, I'm wondering to what degree durability might be the tradeoff. Tom Nice work but I'm afraid that the sear arm going down to the rebound slide is going to be a bit on the delicate side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Yeah - I was thinking that bottom part needs to stay connected all the way around. Great job though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4mike Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 (edited) thanks all I have no worry about bottom parts (because light mainspring), more about upper part rupture thats new gun, owner got instruction about none dry firing without dummy ammo itś 6" IPSC revo, will work with shortened 357 brass with 38SA monnclips (no short colt brass here) Edited February 1, 2012 by 4mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 The top part looks like it should go quite a while due to the large radius on the inside corners. I hope it works out for you. Thanks for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick1981 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 hammer bobbing > finish work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronc Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Hi, I am wanting to lighten the trigger pull on my S&W 617, its a .22 cal 10 shot revolver. I shoot it DA, so can I bob the hammer like 4Mike's or like Tampaxd45's 686 hammer (I really like). If I lighten the hammer by bobbing it and put lighter springs will i get reliable firing? I am open to all suggestions on how to get a really nice trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Hi, I am wanting to lighten the trigger pull on my S&W 617, its a .22 cal 10 shot revolver. I shoot it DA, so can I bob the hammer like 4Mike's or like Tampaxd45's 686 hammer (I really like). If I lighten the hammer by bobbing it and put lighter springs will i get reliable firing? I am open to all suggestions on how to get a really nice trigger. Apex tactical sells a drop in hammer for the 617 if that's an option for you, IIRC they say capable of about 7lb trigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 (edited) Hi, I am wanting to lighten the trigger pull on my S&W 617, its a .22 cal 10 shot revolver. I shoot it DA, so can I bob the hammer like 4Mike's or like Tampaxd45's 686 hammer (I really like). If I lighten the hammer by bobbing it and put lighter springs will i get reliable firing? I am open to all suggestions on how to get a really nice trigger. The rimfire is different from the centerfire in regards to lightening the hammer. If you bob the hammer on a rimfire it will make the less reliable. The options are to leave it stock or as alecmc said, use an Apex hammer. https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid3.html Edited January 30, 2013 by toothguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Griffin Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Hey gang: Anything to know on a 686 that would be different than a 625? I need to tune up some .38s and was wondering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) They are really all the same - K, L, or N frame as far as doing the action, except for the rimfire - centerfire issue. I find that I can often get a lighter reliable hammer fall on a large primer gun than a small primer. I think that is because the large primer is bigger in diameter, thus making the center easier to dent. Edited February 2, 2013 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowrider Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 Hey gang: Anything to know on a 686 that would be different than a 625? I need to tune up some .38s and was wondering. I "Carmonized" the hammer on my 686-0. Used a wilson Combat main spring and shortened the strain screw to work with Fed 100s. I don't have a pull gage but I'm guessing it's about 5.5 to 6lbs. I removed enough to make the total hammer weight 56% of what it was when it left the factory. Whack away... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix68 Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Can you achieve the same desired affect by bobbing the hammer on a Ruger GP100 and/or Security Six? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 (edited) No - it's still a Ruger. Edited February 4, 2013 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COF Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Yup, and damn proud of it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 No - it's still a Ruger. Ouch. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Can you achieve the same desired affect by bobbing the hammer on a Ruger GP100 and/or Security Six? If you do a Google search for Ruger and bobbed hammer, you will find info on it. Might be some here. Also, search for, and download the pdf file for the Ruger, Book of Knowledge. Ruger is, reportedly, stingy with spare parts. The story is you can't get them, and if you break something...they want the gun and then will return it to stock condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Can you achieve the same desired affect by bobbing the hammer on a Ruger GP100 and/or Security Six? The main difference between Ruger and Smith is the mainspring. On a Ruger it's a coiled compression spring, on a Smith it's a flat spring. Theoretically you would get the increased hammer speed by bobbing a Ruger hammer. Their hammer spur is not much % of the whole hammer so you would probably have to lighten a lot more by drilling holes or carving away material to make a noticeable difference. A Carmonized S&W hammer is a good example. This would have to be tried and quantified to get real world results and test the theory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix68 Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Flexmoney & Toolguy...thanks for the responses...I really appreciate it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matrix68 Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Also...about the whole "stingy" about the spare parts thing. I have purchased from Ruger, just about every part for my Security Six that you could think of...other than the frame itself In fact, I have completely rebuilt two Security Sixes...rescuing them from be rusted piles of junk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 If you can get parts then you can afford to experiment a little. That's a good thing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Also...about the whole "stingy" about the spare parts thing. I have purchased from Ruger, just about every part for my Security Six that you could think of...other than the frame itself In fact, I have completely rebuilt two Security Sixes...rescuing them from be rusted piles of junk That is good (refreshing) to hear. Having not tried, that is why I said "reportedly". Do you do anything special to buy pats from them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Nesbitt Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 That is good (refreshing) to hear. Having not tried, that is why I said "reportedly". Do you do anything special to buy pats from them? Says Flex as he fires up his Dremel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toothguy Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 (edited) Also...about the whole "stingy" about the spare parts thing. I have purchased from Ruger, just about every part for my Security Six that you could think of...other than the frame itself In fact, I have completely rebuilt two Security Sixes...rescuing them from be rusted piles of junk That is good (refreshing) to hear. Having not tried, that is why I said "reportedly". Do you do anything special to buy pats from them? I checked my Brownells catalog, it looks like they have a good selection of parts for single and double action Ruger revolvers. It doesn't look like they sell the hammer for the GP100 though. Numrich is out currently ($25.), it says normaly a factory fit item. Edited February 4, 2013 by toothguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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