GunCat

Movement of the Feed Latch (shell latch) is limited by the Feed Latch Release at the rear and by its own flex tension at the front (where the shell rim stops coming in/out of the mag tube). The 1 or 2 springs behind the latch do not affect loading the mag tube at all.

I've lost count on how many rounds I have through mine at this point. Since Jan 1, I have ran about 6 cases of shells through my MOA M3K. It keeps getting smoother and is now cycling federal bulk packs fine. I still cant get Fiochi low recoil slugs of any type to cycle reliably but I've been VERY happy with the Federal Truball so I've sold the cases of Fiochi's i had. I do have the Benelli extractor/spring on standby since that's the only part I've read here that people have had to replace. I haven't seen any signs of abnormal wear on mine yet. In a weird situation this weekend the carrier pin c-clip, that doubles as the Trigger pin retainer came lose/fell out/failed/disapeared which caused my trigger pin to fall out during a reload.. made for an interesting stage. I would say this is more of a fluke than anything but I've ordered a 5pack of c clips today to keep them in my range bag. Ever see the guys with target pasters stuck on the sides of their receiver (on any assorted brand of gun)? Know you know why.

That can sometime happen on that style of sight (same thing happens on the pinned Gold Cup Elliason and Ruger revolver sights). Fixes include a slight bend in the pin to provide more tension, stake each end of the pin hole closed on the sigh base, or some blue Loctite on the pin (flip the sight up/down a few time after the Loctite dies to loosen up the hinge)

The 1100 platform still works fine but remember its 1960’s technology. It was never a one barrel/one gun/any load design. You can tune the gun to light loads, but it will batter itself when running hotter loads - or you can tune the gun to run heavy loads and it may not cycle when running lower velocity loads. Tuning the 1100 barrel or action to operate within a specific range of loads is just part of the gun’s design. Remington’s original answer was more than one barrel design for various loads. A 2 gas port barrel (with various ports sizes in certain barrel lengths) for standard loads and a one gas port barrel for “magnum” guns.

The XRail monotube with a captured follower will fix that problem. Making your factory tube capture the follower may do it too.

Quoted from another forum......... Yes please explain Short action Vs Long Action. Why is the .308 FP110 a long action as opposed to a short action, if long actions are for 30-06 and greater? Thanks The difference is about half an inch. The 110FP in .308 is a long action because Savage had some financial problems back in the 80s so they cut costs simplified things by reducing the line to only the long action 110 since it will work with any caliber. The short action was reintroduced a few years ago. Any 110s you find that are in short-action calibers are because it was manufactured during the time that they only made long actions. Sounds like I'm remembering what once was, instead of what is now. Here's another description: http://www.midwayusa.com/content/HowToGuides/size_action.htm Correct, at one time Savage built all their bolt guns on the same action length. It’s not an uncommon plan; the coveted Pre 64 Model 70 Winchester used a single action length. Everything from .22 Hornet to .458 Winchester Magnum

Let us know (show us) what the problem is. Lots of ways to creatively fix some problems (and if it turns out you’ve just got to have a new receiver I may be able to help with that)

The “second spring” that was removed is probably the inner spring on the shell latch (the part in the side of the receiver that you push the shell past when loading). Removing that inner spring does not cause the issue you are having (Remington put it there to help the action the function hard recoil, heavy 3.5” loads) In your case it’s likely the bolt is not opening far enough to active the carrier (aka lifter). Try operating the bolt by hand and you’ll find the spot that lets the bolt open far enough to eject a fired 2.75” hull but not far enough to activate the lifter. Why is the bolt short stroking? What load (velocity and shot weight) are you shooting? Have the pistons (underneath the chamber area) become fouled with lube or carbon to the point of not moving freely? Is the chamber nice and smooth or has it become rough?

+6 3 in the factory tube, 6 in the extension and 1 in the chamber

MarkCO mentioned that in post #150...but that is the only mention of this 2015 match I have seen anywhere.

What gun are you shooting? Me and my M2 think like AustinWolv (see above)

That is good advice.

John, Are you referring to the trigger movement / engagement - or the stock length “length of pull”? (When we spoke this morning I was thinking trigger engagement). I have a few 1301 guns in the shop, let me take a look at the stock/recoil pad for possibilities.

flrglock, I clicked on the link in your post and it takes me to the 2015 page. Clear your browsers history, cache, etc and try it again.

Could a Moderator or someone with a secret code update the 1st post of this thread to reflect the 9:30 PM EST registration time? Thank you

HiViz Comp or Tri Comp. The fiber inserts are no larger in diameter than the stock bead, but they are longer and transmit more light. They’ll appear bigger and brighter. Unscrew the factory bead. Use one of the screws that come with the HiViz to attach it to the vent rib (same screw hole the factory bead came out of)

A guy (gunsmith/store owner) here in western Kentucky got dinged big time for doing the mod to hunting guns. (I don’t understand how he was the culprit since he did not load the gun while hunting… but never the less) LINK to the story

And JB “Weld” is even easier to knock out than most poorly done welds.

Its worth a call. I know guys that have received new barrels based on the serial number range. Beyond that an offset front and rear sight can generally correct POI / POA issues but I don't consider that the best fix. When you start shooting fast with your eyes focused on the target (pointing instead of aiming) the fit of the gun takes over and it shoots where it wants to shoot.

You’ve got it. I didn’t originate the idea, I just remembered it.

At a predetermined stage location have each AM shooter draw a number from the hat after their squad shoots the stage. The number corresponds to their draw from the prize table. Still a random draw with no chance of (perceived) rigging and the prize table stays intact until after the awards dinner so the sponsors can get some recognition.

Read this info from Pat Kelley

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=208400 Someone with credential should combine these threads

Try it. It’s all in how you want the gun to shoulder, swing and feel. All things being equal a heavier gun will have less felt recoil. I once added weight to the stock of gun I was using to shoot Skeet. Sometime later I took the same gun on an all day walking / hunting trip and forgot that I had added the extra weight. By the end of the day one arm was 6” longer than the other!

That is my plan too (the shells in the gun at start are just a bonus)