granderojo

Seems like I saw a pic that was posted here not long (I think it was a thread about cyl chamfer, maybe) on one of JM's guns that was done by Clark Custom and the cone had a serious shin in it. I don't know about improving accuracy, but it would have to increase speed and raise the PF for the same load, No?

According to my book on S&W "Standard Catalog of Smith & Weesson": "New York Police: In 1977 several thousand were chambered in .357 Magnum for the N.Y.S.P. w/4" heavy barrel w/pinned barrel.Predecessor to the Model 13 w/a centerbored cylinder measuring 1.67" in length w/a somewhat flattened top strap and a sandblast blue finish. This varation is fitted w/a smooth .400" comabt trigger and .375" checkered hammer. Fitted w/plain clothes grips. Notched front sight, frame marked 10-6, "357 Magmun" on the barrel. No know police markings." Hope this helps. Granderojo

Thanks for all the advice and ideas. As always, this forum is a wonderful source for info and help. It's gone back home for repair. Granderojo

There's nothing in the IDPA rule book that says that you can't shoot hotter ammo than the MIN PF calls for. No concerns about poppers falling or making Min PF at a big match.

You can find Mike here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=192 Link under Vendors section of the forum. Read some of the responses from his customers. He does very good action work as well.

The stud is loose, not broked. It is loose enough in the frame that it will come out with only light finger pulling or less. What I ment by "heavily massaged" was that the insides have all been looked at and polished , smoothed or what ever needed to be done. The gun has at least 150k rounds through it and probably another 3-500K pulls in dry fire. If it has to go back to Smith, all the internals will have to be replaced w/stock parts. It's been back several times already for problem repairs (barrel over clocked, chrome coming off the hammer and trigger to name a few). Thanks for your responses and sharing. The knowledge and experience on this forum is amazing!!

The stud will come out of the frame when the side plate is removed. It stays in place with the plate on. Is this a Factory only repair? The weapon is a competition gun (625 JM)that has been heavily massaged, so probably no warranty. What about some Red Locktite (bearing and Stud Mount) or some type of epoxy, a good cleaning and let cure? What are your thoughts and/or experiences with this problem? Thanks for your time.

There are several grip makers that make them that way. Wilson Combat is one of them.

What are you useing for a crimp die? If the base of your bullet is being resized, this could be the problem. The lead can be resized after it's been seated but it won't expand back to the original size. This would affect the bullet sealing to the barrel (fouling) and could effect you FPS readings toward making Major PF. If you're useing a Lee Factory Crimp or Carbide Crimp die, I would recommend that it be replace with one that only crimps the case. Hope this helps.

GOF, Where in the rule book does it say that the SO will call cover as a warning before giving a penatly for not properly using it? In the Glossary, under range commands, it says "Cover: Alert given to the shooter for using improper cover." It's been my experience that the only time this warning is used is at local club matches as a courtesy and for a learning experience. I've nerer heard it said at any of the regionals or state matches that I've been to in the last 6 yrs. That is not to say that it doesn't happen. At these matches, if you don't use cover properly, the SO just raises a finger and you get an extra 3 secs.

From what I know, I would have to agree with Mike. I was taught that you don't want to do any under sizing after the bullet has been seatedwith the exception of the crimp at the top of thebrass. I used to use a Lee Factory Carbide Crimp Die till I started to see bullet jump in unfired cartridges in the moon clip. The die resizes the loaded bullet and the lead won't rebound like the brass does. The Dillon Crimp die has been working very good for me. If you want to use the same COL for both pistols, tske the bsrrel and a few of your Revo bullets to a good gumsmith and have the chamber made (cut) a little longer (deeper) so your revo Cols don't hit the rifling. My smith told me that the bottom of the case should go far enough into the barrell that you can see almost all of the chamfer on the under side of the hood. The round should fit below flush with the end of the barrell hood. I still get some leading whem I shoot lead bulllets even, Laser Cast. Just a few things that I've learned the hard way. Hope some of it helps.

+1 to what Merlin said, it's left handed thread. Also, remember to put a full moon clip w/empty cases in the cylinder before you tighten the rod to support the ejector tips.

Off the subject a little, you can tune the grip saftey so it takes very little movment to disengage. Shoot with a guy that shoots an Eagle 5.0 w/bushing in .45 for both CDP and ESP (a 125-45). He shoots 200 SWCs. At 125pf, it's like shooting a .22, no muzzle lift at all. Big mag opening, easy to hit. Back on the subject, another in the group uses an M&P .45 for both CDP and ESP. I don't think he has tried SSP w/it yet. Works good for the other Divs though. Same bullet,200 SWCs for both pfs. Hope this info is of some use.

If you were thinking about the DOH for IDPA, I don't think it would be legal for men.

Check them with your hand seater. Also you can use the end of your caliper that comes out when you open the jaws. Extend the tip into the primer till it touches the primer with the bottom on the case rim and it will shows you how far below the rim (flush) you are.

Does the new release work correctly after it's installed before you shoot the gun?

+1 on Ranch Products Moon Clips. Great people to do business with and great moon clips. M2cw

The head stamp looks like Win NT to me. I don't know if that makes any difference. Glad you're OK too. The last time I saw a 40 go Kaboom was a Glock and it did a LOT more damage to the gun that you had. It blew the mag and the trigger group out the bottom, blew the slide off and ruined the frame. The top of the slide at the front of the ejection port on both sides was peeled up and back (for a lack of better way to put it) at a 45 degree angle for about a 1/4-3/8" toward the front if the barrel. The shooter wasn't hurt. He thinks it was a double charge, not sure though. Again, glad you didn't get hurt.

Does anyone know where to get these besides S&W? I've tried to search this forum for the answer, but no luck. I thought I read a post from one of the members that there was a vendor that sold these grips besides S&W. I can't find it. Black is fine. Help Please. Thanks for reading this. Granderojo

You can make minor w/.38spl. It's done all the time for IDPA. The Pf for SSR is 125. 158gr lead bullets at 800 fps and you're there. If you're going to shoot 625 @ major Pf, you might want to try it first. I think you'll find it's more of a hand full than most people think till they try it. I switched from SS to revo and am enjoying it a lot. It's going to take a lot of work to get up to speed, but that was know going in. Hope you enjoy the change to Revo.

IPSC_PRO, You still have to make 125PF to shoot Minor. Only a few of the factory +P will make 125 out of a 4" barrel. I don't kow what you can get out of a 6" or more barrel.

FYI The vinagar and peroxide treatment is for STAINLESS barrels ONLY! If you use it on a steel barrel, you just ruined it! It will pit the metal big time.

Dillon recommends a min. of .010" bell on the brass. I use about .012-.014". The bullets sit better in the brass and less chance of dinging the coating. Granderojo

I was wondering why you use 2 sizing dies also. In addition, by putting the U die in Pos #2, you loose the use of the powder check. I have my U die in Pos #1 (almost touching the shell plate) and it works very good. Have one for 9mm but haven't used it yet, but will when the time comes.

A friend shoots an Eagle 5.0 and uses 200 LSWC for both ESP & CDP. When he shoots ESP loads, the muzzle doesn't lift at all. Sorry, I don't know what powder he uses. I think it's WST or W231. In addition, 200s are cheaper than 230s. Granderojo