tgford58

VFD will power up you Mill without a rotary phase coverter, not to mention you will have variable speed by pushing a button? Rotary phase cost at least $500+ VFD will cost less than $110 shipped. Ok, I was just browsing along until I read this part. I just purchased a new (for me) 3 phase Bridgeport mill and Clausing lathe. I'm setting these up in our new shop that unfortuantely does not have 3=phase power. I was sorting out my options on rotary converters when I read this. Can you explain a bit - the electronics for this process and some ideas on where to purchase. Sounds like the way to go.

Look at this site. Maybe it will help http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html

I will take you upp on that. I have a couple of 1911 coming off the bench in the next month that I was going to high temp enamel. This looks like a superior finish. We can try one and if it turns out as good as yours then I'll buy the supplies. Thank you for the offer.

Man you did one fantastic job. Tell me about the Caswell system. Where did you purchase and what was its product name?

Springfields I have worked on come .330X60X.075 and are .180 blades.

You did really good! I like how it turned out.

Robar Industries is who I use. They have NP3 and they do a fantastic job. Here's the link. http://www.robarguns.com/

And very well said. Thank you. I am printing and posting in my shop.

Depending on the radius you want on the end - I use a 3/8 end mill for 90% but also a 1/2 if I want a smoother curve. The trick isn't the ends. The trick is indicating in the slide so that the lands you create are the same width down the length of the slide and setting the angle so that they match.

Look at Brownells. They have frame fillers for 1911 and 2011. You slide them in and tighten the vice on the butt end. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=912/Product/1911_AUTO_MAGAZINE_WELL_FILLER

Its the low mount. That's OK. Just stop the tri-top on the top land also. It can be a pain to get the two angles the same width and length but it looks cool when you are done. Depending on how much you are trying to shed in weight you may consider only cutting the top flat and serrating? Just an option.

Sort of the reason. It is to give a smooth surface to aid in both chambering and extraction. Removing the reamer marks is the point, the effect that it has is a topic of discussion.

If you have the bomar low mount rear you want to stop the top and side flats at the same point around the top of the slide. Cosmetic more than functional.

Sounds like your problem is solved. There are too many variables to have a chart of speeds. Barrel makers use their tooling until it drifts. So if you get a barrel with new tooling you get one set of parameters, older tooling completely different parameters. I wouldn't over think it. You will generally be able to build a load that bridges the gap. I have one load that makes major in 4 guns. About a 75fps spread. Send the gun off, get the barrel fit tight and have fun

And, I apologize for being so bold, if Bob has the barrel, I would send the gun to him and have it fit. He's one of the smiths that set the bar we all try to clear.