skorittnig

Great thanks everyone!

Hi all, I’ve been away from the sport for a while (10 years), so I am not aware of who is working on competition revos these days. I have a few revos that I would like someone to “go through” and make any repairs necessary, ensure function, and perform trigger jobs etc. I would like to hop back into competition again, as parent duties allow thanks to all shay

Following

S&W will just barely break the edge. It will not be chamfered anywhere near as much as most of us use. If you don't want to do it yourself send it to some one like Mike Carmony. It will be done quicker and better. +1-- Makes sense to let a competitor customize your competition gun. I have had the opportunity to handle a couple guns he has worked on, definitely top-notch.

Thanks for the info.- I have done these things (as this is how I broke the previous extractor lol). It is much more difficult to tighten than it has been in the past--I'm not sure if my threads are not matching up or ?

The reason mine is disassembled was for chamfering. On a positive note- the chamfering turned out perfect

Hi guys, I have a 625 jm- recently I broke my extractor arms trying to screw the extractor onto the extractor rod. I'm trying to replace the new extractor, but am having a heck of a time getting it to screw back onto the extractor rod. I was using a vise and leather pads, but the rod just keeps turning in the vise. I am going to get a drill chuck today, but I was wondering if it should even be this difficult? I don't remember it being quite this hard on this gun or any of my other smith's. Any ideas? Thanks

People who laugh at .38's have never been hit by one. I give this round the same respect that I would a .22- which has killed many many individuals. One well-placed shot from either of these rounds can end a gunfight.

Are you filling the empty chambers with cartridges when you tighten the extractor? If you don't put cartridges in the chambers, all the torque goes on the tips that you are breaking off. I was wondering if this was the trick- I'm pretty sure this was what was happening. I'll be sure not to call it a "star" again too! From here on out, it is now known as "that pointy thing". LOL. as always, thanks guys.

I thought my last star broke because I took too much off when attempting to chamfer it- so I ordered a new one from Brownells. When attempting to assemble the cylinder with the new (unchamfered) star, some of the ends broke on it as well. I was really having to crank on the darn thing to tighten it- what am I doing wrong, and what can I do differently? I have one more on order now, and do not want to repeat this mistake 3 times LOL. Thanks in advance! skorittnig

HI all, I have used the search feature, but have not come up with a conclusive answer. Furthermore, I have found a picture of one of JM's cylinders on the S&W forum (supposedly)- and it looks like he clipped the legs on his star intentionally--I'll attach the pic to this thread. Anyway- 2 of the legs on my extractor star (model 625 .45 ACP moon clip) are broken----yes, I decided to take the edge off of them, and made them too thin/weak. The notches that rotate the cylinder are still intact and untouched, just the legs are broken. My question is, will the gun still function reliably for competition? Or should I read the "fitting the extractor star" thread in preparation for a new one? BTW- the chamfer job on the cylinder turned out great with the help of Brownells, and the fellas here on BE.com. Thanks guys, Shay

My cylinders are out of spec on my new 625 JM-- they will be reamed soon.

I received my .38/.357 pilot today and it pushes all the way through (on my 686). I think Mike is spot on with his reaming suggestion.

just to clarify Mike- the brass pilot goes in all the way (flush with the other end). My problem is that it won't quite make it far enough to let the chamfer bit touch the cylinder mouth. Should the end of the brass pilot be sticking out (protruding) past the end of the cylinder? I just want to make sure I am using the pilot correctly I guess. Thanks

HI all, I have read every thread (to my knowledge) about chamfering- and decided to purchase a 45 degree set in order to very lightly chamfer the cylinder holes on a 625. I purchased the corresponding brass pilots as well- and when I went to insert the pilot into the cylinder hole tonight it fit, however- it won't allow the chamfer bit to get close enough to the cylinder to remove any metal. Am I doing something wrong? This gun has is moon clip ready, I didn't know if the cylinder had been shortened enough to make the pilot non-functional? Thanks, shay