George

Late to the party here, but yeah, all that's the ticket :-)

132 PF or a bit higher depending on personal pref is where you need to load to at minimum anyway. If the gun runs fine at 132pf with either load I don't see an issue here unless you are looking for a 127.5 PF mousephart load. For some extra comfort, just bump it to 134-135pf no mattter what bullet and don't look back :-)

Hunting, I agree, no brake, MOR, Sniper competition, you betchya' wanna' brake!

Is it over 1"x3"? I didn't know it's actual dimension and assumed it was Tac legal.

YMMV, LOL

For Open, the JP Tank brake is the shiznit as it has more baffle area than anything else out there and works better than anything Tac Div. legal because of that extra surface area. But, the tank brake is the best choice only IF you only shoot Open Div. If you want a convertible, then stay with the oversize Tac legal brake.

I recommend the 550 for folks who want to load a lot of rifle and change out to various pistol calibers fairly often, less stuff to tweak and change than on a 650, just switchout toolhead, shellplate, primer tube and punch, 5 minutes and BAM, a new caliber! 650 otherwise.

Got a JP tank brake on my .270, it's the only way to go for shootability. With a muzzle brake you can watch the hit (or miss, lol) through the scope.

I have an old warhorse that weighs in at 12-13lbs and to paraphrase Kellyn, it shoots like a house-a-fire. I also have a JP CTR that weighs in at about 7.5 with optics. Heavy/light, no big thing either way as long as you like it and can shoot it well

you must go slow first to do anything fast, well

+1 to lighter bullet at higher V, I also feel a tad more PF is always in order for a snappy lite bullet load. My fave nowadays is a 124gr at around 140pf, and yet I still like my 150gr loads at about 130-132pf, go figure.

max OAL in a 9mm Glock magazine is 1.155ish so that makes 9x19 case a perfectly fine choice. I am using a 17L for 9mm major and HS6 (WW540) as the powder choice. HS6 is the only good choice IMHO. A 124gr bullet weight is the minimum I reccomend and it needs 8.2-8.6 grains. Federal SP100 primers complete the recipe. Had striker issues with other primers as I run a lightened trigger. Hope this helps.

Thanks! Hopefully I can hook him up with someone at a local club who can let him try a rig out before he spends too much money on the wrong stuff like I did at first LOL If I can get him geared up properly and hooked up with some local shooters, I think we will have a new member in our sport real soon now :-) Thanks again for the help.

Howdy everyone, I have a good friend back in the Rocky River/Cleveland OH area who wants to get started in USPSA shooting. Being located on the west coast, phone and email support can only go so far in helping him get started on the right foot. He has a copy of Brians book and is starting to shoot his revolver at local indoor ranges, but I need to get him away from the gunstore commandos filling his head with tactical dogma and fictional gun factoids as soon as possible or my phone bill will go through the roof, LOL Seriously though, he needs local guidance and help in getting the right gear together and a club to go practice at where he can get help instead of helpful hindrance on his first journey into the world of competition shooting. Thanks in advance for help here.

guy neil and riggerjj are speaking the gospel. Seat till they are fully against the bottom of the pocket, not much more, no less. a small amount of pre-crush is ok, a gap under the primer in the pocket is not. measurement is not as good as feel for this and feel is only acquired by experience on each and every press.

Reloading without testing on a chronograph is like driving with your eyes closed. You do not have to own one, but you MUST test on one or you are just blindly trusting things to be what you "hope" they are! Of the rest, the case gauge is a must also. The media separator is a work saver for the 2nd level gotta' havit's A typical beam balance is as accurate as you "need" to start, maybe as good as you need long-term too. What is important is to have check weights and to verify any scale before trusting it blindly. Digital is nice, but a 3rd level acquisition for when you are into it bigtime IMHO. Most important "other" thing to have right at the start is a late model loading manual so you have some solid load data to work from.

Mount holes and shoe profile are the same TA-01 or TA-11. It's a universal mounting shoe designed to fit the standard A2 carry handle. For that matter, the A2 handle will probably provide you with enuff profile info to see whats needed for machining a flat top. Like Kurt says, be careful. Measure carefully and cut minimally!

Exactly!

Goldenrod = peace of mind and NO maintenance :-)

I think your gunsmith will be very happy to hear that LOL I am willing to bet ya' something trivial that you WILL like it :-)

Many, many tens of thousands of 9mm (9x19 AND 9x21) on my 550 with the standard Dillon 9mm taper crimp die. I just barely kiss it, just enuff to flatten the case mouth to conform to the case taper rather than any indent on the bullet. Never had any setback occur or had any problems chambering in various OEM Glock and aftermarket Glock bbls. 20 years of high volume 9mm loading tells me this die is a solution looking for a problem in the neener. If you need it, my guess is there is a problem somewhere in the sizing die and/or the chamber in question and thats where the fix should be applied IMHO

Can't say if it helps with a pump "gauge", but I tried one on my 11-87 and went back to the standard stock. I love the pistol grip on an AR, but found my mount and cheek weld for shotgun suffered for it. maybe I didn't try it long enuff to adapt, but it just didn't feel right to me.

JP upper is the best way IMHO, LOL Seriously, I have the CTR upper and will try to get a detail shot later this weekend for ya'. Don't see whay it can't be done if you have the right tools and machining skills. I think having an ACOG mounted right where AR iron sights are is the cats meow and way worth the effort :-)

+1 on outward swinging door being best move besides stronger door and hardware.

The ONLY plus to graphite in any firearm is that it won't attract and hold dust/sand/grit like other lubricants. As far as advisability, I don't thinks it's the best way to go for long-term reliability and parts wear. Synthetic detergent motor oil (mobil 1) or a real light lithium grease in just a couple very specific places is much better for the AR IMHO. Places to lube are locking lugs (rear bearing surfaces are most important) and justy a dab on the lugs will do it. The bearing rails on the bolt carrier also want a stripe of lubricant. I apply it with a q-tip only where the bolt carrier bears on the receiver. Anywhere else is a waste of time and lube. Look at the wear marks in the receiver and only lube the bolt carrier at those points. The rings and bolt cylinder like a drop or two of oil. I use a needle oiler in the bolt carrier holes to lube this area. The buffer tube will benefit from some light grease on spring and buffer. Properly lubed, an AR action is still a pretty dry place. Sopping with oil is not needed. Moly is another good way to go if applied in moderation at all the right points.