George

Either Dillon seater, or Redding Comp one. For what it is worth, the Dillon one seats very consistently but left a ring mark on my Sierra 69gr MatchKings whereas the Redding one does not.

Will that work with the Burris as well? Does the extra voltage cause any problems? Don't know. Typically some extra voltage is OK in many electronic sights, BUT, if you exceed the maximum voltage specifications of the LED in use it will burn out :-(

The biggest loser thing about a J-Point/Optima is the dot brightness. When the mfgr. recommended single 2032 battery is used, losing the dot can easily happen in daylight. Use a pair of 2016 batteries to double the voltage and you double the dot brightness too.

When I recommend anyone I am helping out about a product I always point them at a BE.com dealer if that item is available there. Support the sport AND those that support the sport (and this forum!).

+1

I bought a 550 (probably what you have) in 1989, I talked to Dillon about a replacement primer bar after the 550B came out and they said, OMG, you still have the 550, you need the Powder Bar return linkage and we will send it to you along with the replacement primer bar for no charge. Call em' and I am sure they will help you. Now that all my powder measures have the positive return linkage, I feel much better. BTW, springs are not needed if you have the linkage AND it prevents squibs 7 ways from Sunday, LOL In summary, Dillon customer service rocks the house!!!

BTW, a set of tactical irons on the handguard is an easier option to use than the hold-over-and-left method the BAC requires. The JP Short-Range Tactical Sight is a good choice: http://www.jprifles.com/1.6.4.php

30-50 for me is when I go to the optic. This depends on the accuracy level needed for the shot. If you are taking an upper A/B at 30 yards, it's reticle time. Full target at 50+ also gets the reticle as I like A's

Years ago I read an absolutely excellent article by the late Bob Milek on reloading .223 via a single-stage press versus a progressive. The thesis of the article was that for years Bob "knew" the progressive couldn't load ammo as accurate as his single-stage. Finally, just in the interests of experimentation - and, I'm sure, to get an article out of it - he decided to compare ammo loaded on his single-stage press versus ammo loaded on a Dillon progressive. Now, in both cases he did debur case mouths and trim to length before putting casings into the machines. What he found, when he got to the range, was that there was absolutely no difference in performance, accuracy-wise, between the stuff loaded on the progressive and the single-stage. The only difference, of course, was that the ammo loaded on the progresive had taken one HELL of a lot less time to assemble. I found the same thing, but I still size my rifle ammo on a single stage, trim in my Gracey and then return to the progressive. I run the sizer backed out so the ball just passes the mouth to make sure no dents are there from the tumble I give them after sizing and trimming. I also let the de-capper go through the flash hole to remove any tumbling media that might be blocking the flash hole.

call or email Beven and ask.

Doh, yer' right, it WAS the "feed" latch I had break on me. I plead senility, LOL

Ride it like it's stolen, but never slap it. I always ride reset.

Verify that short-strokin' isn't the culprit first. clean the gas system, replace o-ring and lube. If that doesn't fix it, then it is probably interceptor latch. You just have to stake in a new one. I have had it done, but don't know how to do it myself. BTW, I use a spring length that leaves at least 14"+ of open spring before compression. This prevents spring related jams 100% of the time. Beven Gram's springs are the total shiznit here :-)

When the owner is ready, the cat will appear. Glad to hear you have a new friend. I think that will be one grateful new housemate :-)

+1 to that. That's why my 1980's Colt HBAR is just another carbine to me Now that it has a JP trigger in it, it is actually shootable! True story, I went to a regional HighPower match with it back in early 86. While registering for the LEG match, the gunny checking my trigger pull with the check weight hung the weight on it, then shook the rifle and got no snap. He checked the safety, scratched his head and and then hung the rifle from the weight and it still didn't snap. He laughed a little along with his buddy and said you are good to go as he handed it back to me with the biggest shjt-eatin' grin on his face I had ever seen. BTW, 4.5lbs is the minimum pull and the rifle weighed in at 12+ at the time LOL

Here is a list of all the AR variants Colt has produced. http://www.biggerhammer.net/ar15/variants/

Yep, thats the one. Service Pack 3 just means you have to do less updating after the install. It's the one to get.

I started with a single stage system and bought a Dillon 550 after just two weeks of painfully and slowly preparing 200 rounds of 9mm ammo during the week and burning it all up in an hour on Saturday. Don't bother with SS, go progressive to start.

Heck, a low SN Sporter is not that old of a rifle by any means. The Sporter came out after the assault rifle bans started in the late 80's. I have an original Colt HBAR from late 1985 that was bought new right after they released the model and I don't consider it a collectors item. The Sporter is just a young whippersnapper by comparison

Yes, you have it right. Get a full OEM version of Windows and BAM! You are on the way! Best price point I have found for XP software is through Royal Discount: http://www.royaldiscount.com/windowsxphome.html I score the Bay Area Rifle Championship using EZ-Winscore on my MacBookPro using BootCamp and also have a G4 PowerMac tower running EZ-Winscore through the Virtual PC emulator as a backup to the laptop (G4 machine won't run BootCamp). Have had zero problems for 4 years now doing it this way. The only problem with Windows on a Mac is that the Windows XP install takes freakin' forever and THEN you have to do a seemingly endless series of Windows updates to get the danged software current, sheeesh! BTW, just go with XP home and you will save some bux, Vista or XP Pro are not needed.

I like the Wally World Value Packs of WW White Box myself for a cheap way to shoot neener' (9mm). I also like the WW brass better'n the Federal stuff for reloadin' (just a pref thing, the Fed brass is good stuff). The extra plus IMHO is the faster sight tracking and snappier gun response of the 115gr load. Ya' gonna' shoot a 141 PF, you might as well have it be quick

Give me a call at some point and I can give better advice if I know the usage situation. PM with Cell# on it's way.

Again, the Dillon Carbide .223 die is the real shiznit compared to any SB dies out there. Nothin' but trouble until I went Dillon.

No such thing as a passive splitter for any video signal whatsoever, let alone a digital one. The $12 one you listed powers from the bus of the device you patch it into. These are low quality devices and generally present some artifacting with 1080i and 1080p signals. HDMI & DVI are not very robust signals and have a cable length limit depending on frequency of the signal (720, 1080p etc...). Driving cables longer than 10-15 feet takes a powered repeater/signal reshaper. The best/only way is with a dedicated "powered" DA. The DVI Gear ones are the only digital signal DA's I consider worth buying for signal quality and value in one package. http://www2.dvigear.com/diam.html Hope this helps and doesn't disappoint ya' too much.

Bolt action rifle or AR? If it's an AR you may need small base dies. Myself, I stopped using RCBS rifle dies and went to Dillon ones instead. I was not getting full case sizing from the RCBS dies and they were tight in my ammo gauges. Cases sized with Dillon dies are fine in my rifles and case gauges now.