SingleStacker45

OK. here is my best effort with 158g berry's in 38special cases to 1.5" Load shoots great. Rip it appart. As you can imagine there are many slower versions. It looks like I'm stuck at about 4.2 seconds shot to shot. New guy reload. Mule

Thanks guys. I'll look to some round nose bullets. I have been studying your video Bubber and I know what you are talking about varying your speed when you can depending on the complexity of the movement. I'll try the finger on a round and see if it will help. I think my soft points are hanging up in the ratchet and or cylinder edge. Mule

After lurking around and doing some reload drills with my 686 and cut down comp IIIs I am finding it difficult to get the loader to line up with the cylinder. I'm doing week handed reloads with MG 158 grn HPSP bullets and wondering how much going to a round nose bullet like berry's might help? Is there another trick for indexing the loader to the cylinder I am missing? Thanks, Mule

I turned mine down on a Metal Lathe. I learned on the first one to use my flood cooler as the plastic wants to melt. Mule

+1 on the old dirty cases with no bullets. I was using snap caps and quickly learned I was wasting my time when I finally made it to the range. My weak thumb ejection was no match for my +p load. Mule

Just loaded my first batch of 38spl +p for my 686 and have gotten some light strikes. I was using wolf springs with a C&S frame mounted pin on my 686. I was using old mixed brass with fed magnum primers whitch were working well in my tricked out glock(primer shortage you know.) I'm starting over after reading the posts with JM spring kit tuned to 8lbs and a apex tactical competition pin kit and starline brass. I'm loading on a 550b and will try to get a measure on the primer depth. Can I stay with the magnum primers(I have quite a few) or will only the regulars be reliable? Thanks, Mule

can anyone suggest a a;ternate hotel as it looks online if the hotel may be full. Thanks, Mule

I too am going to try revolver for my next uspsa match. I'm running a 686 6" .357 and I'm planning on working up a 158 grain major load. I'm using comp III loaders and a safariland cup holster. as I read the rules I think I'm covered. If I were the OP I would use the ruger If I already had it. Am I missing something? Mule

How confident are you that the 11.5 SBR can hit the 400-500 yard targets? What optics are you running? Just curious. Gun and optics are better than I am Running a custom shop Leupold 1-4x shotgun scope with custom reticle for my 11.5 barrel balistics. Zero's at 200 and built in marks for drop out to 500. I'm still a complete newbie at distance shooting, with last years match being the first time I've shot at over 200. And just a small amount of practice at 200, mostly zeroing. Lack of decent ranges locally have really hindered me with distance practice, so this year will probably be a repeat of the old slow fat guy getting a few and missing others. My avatar is the gun. Don't worry about the barrel length as it has no bearing on accuracy or consistancy. It only means lower velocity. You can shoot just fine out to 500 yards with the SBR. Mule

Jim, Was it real bad to start with? What was the down-side to the stock part? (most here won't customize it as that would make the gun illegal for USPSA Production division) I flat out love this gun, but to be kind, the safety isn't swell. I would never carry this cocked and locked, and I probably wouldn't shoot this in Standard/Limited. The safety works fine. It's positive on and off. It doesn't slip off or on. However, it's skimpy feeling, and not placed where a 1911 fan will want it to be. For production, I could care less. I thumb the hammer down and forget that a safety exists. I was tempted to get the plugs Grand Power offers to delete the safety all together. Have you or anyone else tried removing the safety? I'm wondering about making a new safety lever or some plugs and doing away with the safety. Mule

+1 this is almost always the case. more crimp does not equal more bullet tension but just the opposite. your crimp die is actually crushing the case down causing it to expand and loose bullet tension. Check the tension before the crimp stage and see if we are right. Mule

I just got a possum hollow with a power adaptor to play with and it looks great. one thing to consider is the possum hollow requires sizing before you can use it and it does not champfer the neck wich you will have to do if you are using flat base bullets. Most of my trimming is done on a dillon power trimmer in a 550. This setup is great I just have a dedicated tool head for it and it sizes and trims in one action. the advantage to the girraude is it is stand alone and if I'm not mistaken it trims and champfers in one pass. Mule

24.2 of varget got me 2550 and 25.0 got me 2650 out of my douglas 1/8 16". It looks like 2750 might be doable. My hornady 55's are running 2900 on 25.2 H335 so the holds look similar out to 300 yards and I can see about a half inch difference in group size at 100 between the hornady 55's and the nosler 69's. Mule

in tactical class will DMW easy loaders be allowed for shotguns? Also, Mag well funnel for glock 35 looks like it is not allowed for tactical. can anyone confirm these for me? Mule

You can save yourself alot of headaches if you get a RCBS precision Mic in .223. Fire 5-10 factory rounds from your gun if it works(if not that's a whole other issue) and use the pricision mic to measure the shoulder dimensions on the factory spent cases. Next, take some once fired cases and lube them up and begin sizing and micing each until you adjust the sizer to .002 to .005 smaller than your once fired factory cases. If your die won' adjust down far enough get a different die or some advocate overcamming but I think that is hard on the press. I have two different dies from dillon and I am able to get the brass to size to factory specs without overcamming. Results will vary due to the quality of your brass. Mule