dbagwell

Does anyone know which side of the seat die insert is best for seating JHPs? I'm using the Dillon carbide pistol die set which has a round or semi-wad cutter seating insert. Thanks.

Thanks for clarifying...I just googled it as well

I guess I've never heard of an OEM 3.5#...only 4.5# and 5.5# I'm not saying it doesn't exist...I'm just not familiar with it

I respectfully have to disagree. A "3.5#" connector, such those offered by Ghost, have different geometry from the Glock "minus" connector which contributes to a lighter pull weight.

longer sight radius, 4.5# connector, extended magazine release, extended slide release

34 comes with a 4.5# connector

I purchased a Blade Tech DOH with the Stingray system for my Glock about six months ago and never liked it. I felt the SR was too loose on the belt and the offset was borderline legal for USPSA - and hot days pushed it over the legal limit. I'm using the Boss hanger with the Blade Tech holster piece now and I'm very happy with it. I bought one about eight years ago for my STI and it did seem to be more stable.

It's a smart thing to do. You can learn a lot by observing and watching the flow of things. You also get a sense of what the responsibilities of the shooters that aren't up to shoot, i.e. taping targets, collecting brass, etc. Most people are friendly and outgoing even if you're just a spectator. Talk to some people, ask about the local club, see if they have any practice shoots during the week...that's always a good way to go through the motions of a match in a more relaxed setting. Your local club and/or local matches should have some sort of new shooter orientation that you must attend before you can shoot a match anyway. Take it all in and enjoy!

Update: went to the range on Saturday and shot approximately 200 ACME loaded cartridges without any failures. However I field stripped the pistol after about 100 rounds to check things out. There was the typical carbon or coating build up in the first 2-3 mm of the throat and the remaining cartridges would plunk, but they wouldn't spin. I continued to shoot and noticed that once the pistol was in battery that I couldn't chamber check by pulling the slide rearward slightly. Obviously I didn't chamber check every round, but some, not all, would stick and I couldn't open the slide without applying a lot of force. At this point, I'm ready to go back to jacketed bullets. For what it's worth, I determined the MAX COAL to be 1.205" and 1.1925", for the Blues and ACMEs respectively. So, I highly doubt using a COAL of 1.14-1.15" is the problem. Based on the feedback that I've received, I don't believe that I'm over crimping either. Additionally, I clean my pistol after every use, using SLIP 2000 Carbon Killer and Bore Tech CU+2 Copper Remover - so I know the barrel is very clean.

I pulled some more last night and I do see a ring (indentation in the coating), so I'm suspecting that I'm crimping too much. I don't understand what effect that has though. Can anyone explain?

Would you mind sharing your crimp O.D.? I've been crimping to 0.377", but I'm wondering if this is too tight.

Does that mean that the coating is being scraped away by over crimping, which exposes the lead and melts it when fired? I have pulled seated bullets and do not see any evidence of exposed lead. Are there other clues that would point to over crimping?

I have a production holster from Ready Tactical that I really like. Here's a SS holster to consider: https://cpwsa.com/collections/holsters/products/ready-tactical-uspsa-1911-holster

No, I haven't shot a match at Oceanside. I prefer shooting outdoors.

Welcome! Here are some ideas for you: http://raahauges.com/ (Corono) http://www.uspsa2.org/norco.htm (Norco) http://lineadefuego.net/ (Pala) These are outdoor ranges. Oceanside is indoor.